MONZTER

Ah Ha, found it Jon, different forum but thanks for the Alan T tip (should have figured) http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7844&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

Hi Jon, Thanks, ya I did some quick searching for Rally Roll bar/ bolt in roll bar/ and safari roll bar, with not much luck, I'll keep looking. I know the strut bar I have looks inferior, but I have tried solid bolt in styles in the back and front and it did throw off the balance of my car. I made a nice triangulated solid bolt in bar for the front only to cut the diagonal supports off after the car started to understeer really bad. I switched back the simple heim joint bar an it’s great. Same thing in the rear, not as dramatic but it upset the balance. The way I see it is like this. If the car is going to have a stiff chassis it needs to be balanced and stiff equally front middle and rear. What you’re doing for example. If you only stiffen the front, and or rear it messes the balance up. People who have used the PDK front setup without a cage have had problems, so I have heard. I think leaving the front and rear soft and balance works for me. Maybe its wrong, but I like it. I know on the road bikes I design this is defiantly the case when working on the carbon lay-ups. too stiff in the rear is bad if the front is not a match. A fully soft balanced frame will always handle better and turn in better than an unbalance frame. I think when I get my cage going in my other car the bar in the back will work perfect. Hey are you going to the MSA driving school? Your welcome to drive my car, and see what you think, its still NA but a lot of fun. Jeff

Sorry, Been working on welding up the Wiggins fittings and secondary injectors to the throttle bodies and such. I think I am going to build my own flow bench. Have you ever seen the equipment form www.audietech.com I’ll be able to finish up my CNC head and check the plenum at the same time

Really, did they also bolt up to the two sets of holes in the roof bar where the dome light is? Do you have any good pics. I already have a strut tower bar. And it seems to do the job. If I made the strut tower bar stout enough and bolt in I am afraid it would change my set-up. Also the belts will have to go back at an angle a longer distance, not as good from what I have read. Here are some pics of it as I made it this afternoon at lunch break. What do you think? I feel it should be OK now that I know what the holes were for..

Hey Guys, I don’t know about anything other than 240's, but my cars have 4 threaded holes in the chassis right under the 1/4 window that have a recessed flat spot. I mode some plates that bolted to them and welded the bar between them. It worked out to be the perfect height and position for the belts. No cutting or welding to the chassis and it unbolts with no problem. I'll take some pictures to show you soon. Bart I will be at the MSA Autocross, trying for the first time in a year to be in control, this time with a harness. Looking forward to seeing you there. Jeff

Nope not yet

I run in a class called CSM, its not a national class, just fun local stuff here in Southern California, my friends with Z,s also run this class. I have not run for over a year and I am getting it back up and going

Thanks for the Reply, This is my daily driver, and I don’t want to weld anything to the body. The car is still original paint and never in an accident, so I want to keep it for restoration. Besides, I was reading on one of John C. post that you want the belt to mount close to the seat. I am really just looking if there are any regulations on wall thickness and bar diameter for local autocross events

I need to build a harness bar that will be used without a roll bar. I am going to mount it horizontal above the wheel tubs level with the openings in my seat, about 3" back from the seat. I am thinking about using some 1-3/8x0.83 wall CRMO that I have. Do you guys think this will be good enough as an autocross only set up. Thanks Jeff

1

I know you found something, but have you ever seen this stuff http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=wire+heat+wrap&N=700+400081+115+302816&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch It is expensive, but I think it looks alot nicer than the plastic stuff.

Why does the turbo have to be in the stock location?? I could think of better places. Many have. Monzter

Yes the original F-Series bikes were made by Answer with Easton tubes. They were light and flexi. The new carbon frames are at 900gms and 50% stiffer while having better ride quality. And yes a frame and fork is expensive at 3500.00. who did you ride for?

So I am pretty happy today with the results of the Paris Roubaix I am the Senior Design Engineer for a bike company called Felt Bicycles. Our team we sponsor, Team Slipstream were on some custom carbon frames I was responsible for. They normally ride production bikes that I designed a few years ago, but today’s were kinda special one off's built just for this race. For some of you who don’t know the race, it is the hardest race on equipment and many bikes fail due to the pounding of the cobblestone roads. So our team had a 4th place finish with no frame failures to speak of, here are some pics from this morning’s race. It is simply amazing what we can do with carbon fiber these days. MONZTER http://www.velonews.com/article/74628/slipstream-s-maaskant-4th-into-roubaix