MONZTER

Yes Wiggins clamps. You will never see hump hoses used on the upper echelon of motorsports. (Not that my car is that, I just want to pretend) The Wiggins clamps offer 3 degrees of float per end and the bore inside remains smooth and free of any turbulence causing "humps" in the plumbing. They also are 1 hand quick release, no tools needed. They are so good, except the color purple, but it is a Mil Spec specification for this type of fitting, just like the red and blue on AN fittings. Tony, FWIW I fully appreciate your insight and ability to apply your real world experiences to so many different areas. Really nothing much from an engineering standpoint is new anymore, much of it is simply reapplying ideas and techniques from one industry to another. This can be as obvious such as military to automotive, but it takes a real creative person to see the brilliance in the simplest most unappreciated things we take for granted. Jeff

Hi Guys, Thanks again for the input. I can see your point that is probably such a small difference it probably won’t make a difference. The truth is, I am just a freak about this sort of stuff. I am really trying to look at every part of the system, and push it for a "textbook" approach. Bottom line is I like the challenge of figuring it all out. Here are some pics of my build. You can see how I am looking at everything from headers being equal length, to minimizing bends in the plumbing to simply how the air flows in and out of the intercooler. The horn in the question above will be built into a carbon plenum for my ITB set up. Sounds like I will stay with the round inlets.

I run the Victoracer 265-45-16 on 16x8 Panaracer wheels under stock fenders with rolled lips. The Victoracers are kinda old school with their sizing, narrow and a little tall. A 265 Hoosier is waaay wider than the Victoracer.

Thanks Guys, Trust me Tony, Barrels mm,mm good, looked into it, but I have to finish this thing up one of these years, oh ya, and not spend all of my kids college money..

Yes, Very simply put this is what I am trying to do. I have seen intakes with Square and Oval shapes on the big end but can’t determine if it is for packaging or for improved flow. I will try to find the pictures. I believe one was on a Corvette LeMans Engine. Another picture I saw was on some V-12 exotic.

Hey, I am working on my plenum for my turbo individual throttle body set up. Do any of you have opinions which shape would be more effective? The first one is round 88mm big end, 90mm long, 46 at the body. The second one id 88mm square big end, 90mm long, 46 at the body. Both are tangent on the big end and flat to the floor (not protruding into the plenum) Thanks for the input. Jeff

Wow, How big is your tool box?

Hi Tim, My specs were for the original question, main cap studs. Jeff

The instruction sheet said 60ft/lbs only with ARP moly lube. There was no other spec for oil. Jeff

60ft/lbs torque with ARP moly lube Oil or lube in the block after chasing threads. ARP moly lube on threads, nuts and washers.

Hey good job, I am an Industrial Designer/Engineer and remember doing those projects way too many years ago. I can’t stress enough how important those types are projects will be for your future career. The best ideas are not worth anything if you can’t show your client what’s in your mind. Another benefit is simply understanding the process needed to make something like that. I’m sure now that you have made a mold you understand undercuts and how to avoid them or work around those situations when you actually have to worry about manufacturability. And besides, now when you design some cool side maker lights or taillights you will know how to put that water clear resin to use on your one of kind custom parts

Instead of welding the crank, how bout using a set of Toyota 3sgte rods and offset grind the crank to get 1.5mm more stroke (84.5). No welding and lighter weight. HMMM:D