MONZTER

Yes Wiggins clamps. You will never see hump hoses used on the upper echelon of motorsports. (Not that my car is that, I just want to pretend) The Wiggins clamps offer 3 degrees of float per end and the bore inside remains smooth and free of any turbulence causing "humps" in the plumbing. They also are 1 hand quick release, no tools needed. They are so good, except the color purple, but it is a Mil Spec specification for this type of fitting, just like the red and blue on AN fittings. Tony, FWIW I fully appreciate your insight and ability to apply your real world experiences to so many different areas. Really nothing much from an engineering standpoint is new anymore, much of it is simply reapplying ideas and techniques from one industry to another. This can be as obvious such as military to automotive, but it takes a real creative person to see the brilliance in the simplest most unappreciated things we take for granted. Jeff

Hi Guys, Thanks again for the input. I can see your point that is probably such a small difference it probably won’t make a difference. The truth is, I am just a freak about this sort of stuff. I am really trying to look at every part of the system, and push it for a "textbook" approach. Bottom line is I like the challenge of figuring it all out. Here are some pics of my build. You can see how I am looking at everything from headers being equal length, to minimizing bends in the plumbing to simply how the air flows in and out of the intercooler. The horn in the question above will be built into a carbon plenum for my ITB set up. Sounds like I will stay with the round inlets.

I run the Victoracer 265-45-16 on 16x8 Panaracer wheels under stock fenders with rolled lips. The Victoracers are kinda old school with their sizing, narrow and a little tall. A 265 Hoosier is waaay wider than the Victoracer.

Thanks Guys, Trust me Tony, Barrels mm,mm good, looked into it, but I have to finish this thing up one of these years, oh ya, and not spend all of my kids college money..

Yes, Very simply put this is what I am trying to do. I have seen intakes with Square and Oval shapes on the big end but can’t determine if it is for packaging or for improved flow. I will try to find the pictures. I believe one was on a Corvette LeMans Engine. Another picture I saw was on some V-12 exotic.

Hey, I am working on my plenum for my turbo individual throttle body set up. Do any of you have opinions which shape would be more effective? The first one is round 88mm big end, 90mm long, 46 at the body. The second one id 88mm square big end, 90mm long, 46 at the body. Both are tangent on the big end and flat to the floor (not protruding into the plenum) Thanks for the input. Jeff

Wow, How big is your tool box?

Hi Tim, My specs were for the original question, main cap studs. Jeff

The instruction sheet said 60ft/lbs only with ARP moly lube. There was no other spec for oil. Jeff

60ft/lbs torque with ARP moly lube Oil or lube in the block after chasing threads. ARP moly lube on threads, nuts and washers.

Hey good job, I am an Industrial Designer/Engineer and remember doing those projects way too many years ago. I can’t stress enough how important those types are projects will be for your future career. The best ideas are not worth anything if you can’t show your client what’s in your mind. Another benefit is simply understanding the process needed to make something like that. I’m sure now that you have made a mold you understand undercuts and how to avoid them or work around those situations when you actually have to worry about manufacturability. And besides, now when you design some cool side maker lights or taillights you will know how to put that water clear resin to use on your one of kind custom parts

Instead of welding the crank, how bout using a set of Toyota 3sgte rods and offset grind the crank to get 1.5mm more stroke (84.5). No welding and lighter weight. HMMM:D

Thats cool!!!

I have been running a twin disc clutch master FX-600 for over a year now on the street and Autocross. It uses Kevlar on the disc so its not as grabby as the FX-700 that uses metal. I was having problems breaking the straps on a standard type clutch and the design of this unit eliminated that with the aluminum pressure plate. The complete unit including flywheel weighs 17 lbs. The speed at which it revs is insane. I have had no problems with it, mind you I dont have 500 HP but my new motor will be close to that and I plan on swapping it right over. Jeff

I used AP calipers and rotors on my project. Everything was custom and nothing stock would work. Here are some pics of the custom mounts and bell. It is not cheap or easy, especially with post mounts. Check out my gallery for more pics. Jeff

So who else out there daily drives their S30? I still drive mine nearly every day. The problem is its taking a toll on the car and me. I bought the car and have been driving it, and working on it for about 5 years now. It is pretty modified for AutoX and it has been converted over to fuel injection. A couple things have happened lately to get me thinking about not driving it every day. The first one being a picture I found of the car about 6 months after buying it. The paint is still original, and man does it look a lot worse now then then. The interior is also staring to show signs of wear. The crack in the dash has gone for 1/2 in to about 3 inch, the center counsel is now cracked, the seats ripping ect...ect.ect. I also have notice how much my clothes smell like fumes after driving it. All the rubber has been replaced, and the tuning is spot on, I know bad air recirculation is part of the problem. What is this doing to my health every day? It cant be good for the long term can it... So do I keep spending money on the Z as it continues to get beat, or do I park it for weekend use only and buy a cheap practical new car for commuting and daily use. What do you guys think Jeff

Thanks Paul, I got the 8mm stainless studs a long time ago when ARP started doing the import stuff. Somewhere ARP found me stainless 10mm 12 point nuts, but they had no matching Stainless studs. I have to use 10mm studs for the top of the intake flange, as I have angled the runners up relative to the head and bolts will not fit in the holes without hitting the runners (does that make any sense?) Oh well I have ugly black oxide studs I will be stuck with for now. Thanks again for looking. Best Regards Jeff

Hi Paul, Do you know if ARP now makes 10mm studs and 12pt nuts that would fit the FI intake. I also tapped the head on the outside exhaust flange for 10mm so I would need six if you could get them. Thanks Jeff Exhaust/Intake studs Stainless steel 170,000 PSI Tensile strength exhaust/intake studs, M8x1.25 thread… Studs utilize internal hex for inserting the studs, 170,000 PSI tensile, and come with 12 point nuts. Come in packs of 4, 8, 10, and 12. Come in lengths of 32mm(1.25â€), 38mm (1.5â€), 45mm(1.75â€), 51mm(2.00â€), 57mm(2.25â€) 4pack; 32mm 400-8001 38mm 400-8002 45mm 400-8003 51mm 400-8004 57mm 400-8005 8 pack; 32mm 400-8011 38mm 400-8012 45mm 400-8013 51mm 400-8014 57mm 400-8015 10 pack; 32mm 400-8021 38mm 400-8022 45mm 400-8023 (OE length Datsun L-6) 51mm 400-8024 57mm 400-8025 12 pack; 32mm 400-8031 38mm 400-8032 45mm 400-8033 51mm 400-8034 57mm 400-8035 Hope that helps, Paul

Rainer, Ignore the initial advance number, that is for start-up only. Just look at the numbers on the chart. Also, please remember what Ron said, every configuration and every car will be different. Please use the chart as a reference only. Best regards Jeff

Hi Rainer, Those are my actual timing numbers per RPM and MAP points. The head has small 36cc chambers so the burn is very fast. A few degrees is probably need to be added for a stock N-42 head

Thanks for the help. Good point about the fuel cut on a turbo engine Jeff

Hey Tec 3 people. I never have got my rev limiter to be "soft" It seem to come on very aggressive and really jerk the car hard when it hits. I have it set to 8000, so I am worried about the sudden hit shaking the drive train to bits. For tunng, I have set the rev limit to 3000 to try and get a soft limit while street driving, but have had no luck. It seems like the different setting don't do too much. Do any of you guys have a good set-up you would like to share the parameters with me and the group. Thanks Jeff

Maybe this thread will help. Some of us posted our Tec 3 tables. My car is also a L-24, but my head is pretty modified so my timing might seem a little less than most. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406 Best Regards Jeff