MONZTER

If your going to use pre-preg for structural reasons it must be temperature cured under pressure. The heat can be any source as long as it is controllable for the proper ramp up and cure cycle. The pressure can also be from many sources. You mentioned vacuum bagging, probably the simplest and cheapest. You can also bladder mold with clam shell molds, Compression mold, or even shrink tape. If the parts are not going to be structural, I would stick to a wet lay-up a company called JD Lincoln in Costa Mesa sells Prepreg in various forms http://www.jdlincoln.com/default.htm

Forming the sheet with match dies and then folding it half with a break for production would be cake for .125 wall. I think hand forming .063 over wood will be easy and plenty for prototyping. It is amazing how strong a small boxed in shape like your plenum design is. FYI the BMX bike I showed was race by 220lb pro riders who could squat hundreds of pounds. If you have ever seen a BMX gate start you would be amazed how stiff and strong a monocoque tube can be. The wall thickness on the downtube for the bike was only .050. I think .120 will just make manufacturing and handling easier when it is time for a production run. Jeff

Hi Justin, Why not just make it Monocoque style / sheet metal? One pc would be cheaper than cutting up expensive mandrel bent tubes and running a mile long weld bead - also none of the warpage. The shape is simple enough that you could bang it out over a wooden buck. Aluminum is easy to anneal and age after. Check the pics below for a better explanation. The first one shows the small weld seam, the second one shows the end cap, but I think you could form this in also with a small center seam, and the last one shows it unfolded. I designed a bike years ago that the downtube was made this way / graphics and all. BTW .120 wall? how much boost ya gunna run? Best Regards, Jeff

So I found this link http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=73222&highlight=simpson+belts It has answered many of my questions. I have a friend at Simpson and I am looking at this set up. Any comments. I will only be using this for Autocross, I will retain the stock belts for commuting. http://www.simpsonraceproducts.com/products/product_detail.aspx?cat_id=189&prod_id=7103 Belt in / pull down / polyester webbing Thanks Jeff

That sounds like a great ride, I wish I got a chance to travel more and ride new spots. We have a website for our local rides, it is www.geoladders.com Jeff

Hey, Thanks for the pics, Thats really clean the way the eyebolts hold the factory belts and the harness. I like your harness bar as well. Do you or anybody else know if the shoulder belts could hook to a really solid strut bar?, or is it simply too high. Does anybody know what the correct angle for the shoulder belts should be. Thanks again for the help, I think I now have some work to do Jeff

You win the $1.00 prize; Correct. Are you a Mountain Biker? I assume you are since you know the trail. Whitting is our lunch ride loop, great fun for a quick hour ride. My office is 5 min away. Do you also ride in the Cleveland National Forest? What are your favorite trails? Good talking to ya this weekend Jeff

Hi Tony, You camera sounds pretty cool and simple. The one I got is called a Viosport 3 http://www.viosport.com/ It plugs into a Sony Handycam to capture full 500 lines resolution in DVD quality. It is defiantly more hassle having to run the wires, but the image stabilization built into the camera really helps. I will try it tomorrow on the side of my car. I want to see how the tires roll over in the corners. Have fun Jeff

Got a new helmet lipstick camera to use on my car during autocross. I couldn't wait to try it, so I put it on my Mountain Bike for a test ride. The video came out out pretty cool. Can't wait to put it on my front bumper for the next practice. Check it out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qCIsYrT5f_w

Good Idea. Here is the Dyno chart from the above setup The headwork on my car is the reason for the timing like it is. I have tried advancing it further with 100 octane and felt no difference. here is a picture of the chambers

Hey, I am sure some of you may not want to share this info, but some of you might find this info helpful to others. Want to share some of your Standalone settings? Me first: Please remember, everybody's car is different, and one persons settings may kill someone else's engine, Please view with care PS I would love to see someone's Turbo Setup and compare it to my NA Setup Jeff L-24+1 NA 10.75: compression MSA Satge 3 cam Electamotive Tec 3 Target AFR Timing Curve VE

Amen!!! The quickest way to ruin your hobby is to make it a business. It has to be for the love of it. The reason good art is so beautiful is that is was done for no other reason but to make the artist happy. Commercial art is usually trying to make everybody happy, and in doing so really becomes a compromise. I know there is a lot of you out there who know what I mean.

2239 lbs no driver 2404lbs with me in it 622 613 590 579 51.4 front 48.6 rear

Sal At MotorSport Auto ordered me some a couple years back, dont remember how much, but fixed the clunk in my spindles. Jeff

If the seals are double lip, use an Xacto Knife and trim back the outer seal, the inner seal is the one with the spring and removing the outer dust seal sure seems to help. I think it should be OK, anyone else? Jeff

Thanks, Info like the R32 the same as the Z32 5 speed is what I was looking for. Do any of the other models listed use the same trans as the KA

Has anyone seen or heard about these gear sets? Does anyone know what trans in the USA would any of these work with? KA? Z-32?

No plans to sell them, just for my project. Thanks for the comments on the jig. I figure you cant make nice parts without a nice solid fixture. Jeff

The complete front and rear suspension is modeled in Pro-Engineer, as it is always better to get things done right the first time by designing in a 3-d software as opposed to wasting a bunch of metal and time. All the CNC parts are not designed to be easily manufactured (the joy of only wanting to make 1 set) They are all surface machined, so they would be difficult to make manually. PM me and we can talk more. Thanks Jeff