MONZTER

Amen!!! The quickest way to ruin your hobby is to make it a business. It has to be for the love of it. The reason good art is so beautiful is that is was done for no other reason but to make the artist happy. Commercial art is usually trying to make everybody happy, and in doing so really becomes a compromise. I know there is a lot of you out there who know what I mean.

2239 lbs no driver 2404lbs with me in it 622 613 590 579 51.4 front 48.6 rear

Sal At MotorSport Auto ordered me some a couple years back, dont remember how much, but fixed the clunk in my spindles. Jeff

If the seals are double lip, use an Xacto Knife and trim back the outer seal, the inner seal is the one with the spring and removing the outer dust seal sure seems to help. I think it should be OK, anyone else? Jeff

Thanks, Info like the R32 the same as the Z32 5 speed is what I was looking for. Do any of the other models listed use the same trans as the KA

Has anyone seen or heard about these gear sets? Does anyone know what trans in the USA would any of these work with? KA? Z-32?

No plans to sell them, just for my project. Thanks for the comments on the jig. I figure you cant make nice parts without a nice solid fixture. Jeff

The complete front and rear suspension is modeled in Pro-Engineer, as it is always better to get things done right the first time by designing in a 3-d software as opposed to wasting a bunch of metal and time. All the CNC parts are not designed to be easily manufactured (the joy of only wanting to make 1 set) They are all surface machined, so they would be difficult to make manually. PM me and we can talk more. Thanks Jeff

Hi, Thanks for the comments. The uprights and control arms are just 1 off parts, for my personal project. I really don’t sell this stuff as it seems I can never find enough time to simply finish my own car. Both the uprights and control arm are made of 4130 Cr-Mo. I polished all the tubes on the control arms before welding, welded them, and simply clear powder coated them. I will do the upright in semi black. The CV axles are from a 300zx turbo with custom 1 inch shorter axles. They bolt to the same 300zx axle flange. What I did was take the rear bearing hub from the 300zx turbo trailing arms and cut it off. The OD of the hub is about the same size of the ID of the 240 strut hub. So with a small clean up of both parts on the lathe, I inserted the hub and welded it in. What is cool is that I now use the 5 lug 300zx turbo stub axles and bearings, and I offset the hub 20mm outboard, now I can run 5 lug 40mm offset 8.5 inch rims with perfect alignment and no wheel spacers. Sorry if this is a little off subject.

Hey guys, Just saw your discussion on this post and thought you might be interested in my 1pc tubular set-up. Here is some pics Jeff

Actually, I usually work 11 hour days, the trick is no sleep.

Like this.. Pretty easy to make, I also filled my Trans mount with urethane. The gears in the tranny shake alot and rattle at idle now. kinda annoying..

Try this link http://www.bjbenterprises.com/ I have used most of ther product with success

Thanks for the reply, Sounds like a case were there is no substitution for experience, and patients Jeff

Hey Derek, Nice pattern. Do you have to account for shrink by making the pattern oversized? If so by what percent? It always looks like the Cannon manifolds have shrunk and are too short when you try to line them up with the ports. Could this be why? Thanks Jeff

Neno is good luck, I always have a good run when he is in the pasenger seat. Thanks

Yes, That was at the rear wheels before being broken in, I think it feels even a little better now. the block is the original P-30 that came in the car. I autocross it and what is so great is the way it revs and pulls all the way to 7500 no problem. Many of my fellow z guys run 280 blocks and are surprised to see how well a 240 can pull. I had the car at the MSA autocross last weekend and I feel having the 2.4 aginst all of the other 2.8s and 3.1 was no problem. I guess it depends on what you want. Here is a pic of the engine and head. Let me know if you need any other specs, if you plan on doing your own, maybe I can help. Jeff

L-24 Stock crank, rods, pistons +1mm OS N-42 head with welded 36cc chambers, and mild porting, swirl polished valves, compression ratio 10.65:1, Pump Gas MotorSport #3 cam Electromotive Tec 3r, 320cc injectors, hogged out stock intake with 60mm throttle 209.9 HP 178.1 torque

Thanks for advice. I did hear about hurting flow by taking out too much out around the valves. I am running OS valves 46 intake 38 exhaust, so I wonder how this would apply. I wonder if the flow was cut down due to the head being so much wider than the bore, or if it was because of the redirection of the flow, due to the fact of more room all the way around the valve. I will have to do some hard searching. Thanks Jeff

My plans are to use a welded N-42 head, I will weld it up to generate the quench. This will make the volume too small for a Turbo application. So what I will do is unshroud the valves back to the 91mm head gasket. The bore will be 88 or 89 (havnt decided yet) so the head will be wider than the bore causing a step. Eyebrowing the bore will smooth this out and again help to lower the compression ratio down, along with custom dished pistons.