MONZTER

IMS - Industrial Metal supply in Irvine

Hi Braap, Why on the intake only? That’s the only way I found them. I got them from the Kameari guys in Japan, and that was the only way they sold them. I did not know where else to get them except by going custom. Maybe some other application would have fit, but I had no clue where to find this info. I was thinking it was because of a durability thing with the exhaust valve? and the hardness of the seat material? - just a guess. The head was done by Rebello. Dave got the head flow 212 at 25" .5 lift intake and 150 at 25" .5 exhaust. He said he spent way more time on the exhaust than the intakes. I'm hoping it will run pretty good. Jeff

For me I think the biggest improvement isn't totally from the manifold, but by going stand alone fuel injection with a MAP based system opposed to a MAF system. This is what let me get rid of all the extra stuff and make the HP increase.

Hey Tim, Got some Oversized Beryllium seats from Kameari directly. They are supposed to help transfer the heat better. Just had them installed, but not run em yet. I also got the Beryllium guides to help again to pull the heat out of the valves. Not cheap stuff, but I figured good insurance.

Nice MFI runners, Thats cool. ever run across any pics of the Lucas flat slides on a Z. Oh waite stop dreaming this is about a stock intake:bonk:] Whats all those wire and hoses, just pull it all off, we did...

What about the one MSA Sells? I think there was a discussion not too long ago about this single groove damper.

Hey Braap, Makes sense about the cooling, so why would anybody want to close them off at any level? I know they talk about it in the "how to modify book" Is it because of the extra windage? or maybe the high RPM loss of oil in the rod bearings? Hmmm Thanks Jeff

So, on a L-28 turbo build with 1973 240 rods, should I close off the oil squirter hole in the rod or leave it open??? Does anybody know what the pros and cons are?? Thanks Jeff

John, Thanks, Good solution cutting off the threads on the old tie rods and building them into the new ones. I really like all the interesting ways people find to do the same thing so many different ways on this forum. Great option for people without access to a lathe; where did you find the swaged tubes? I remember seeing them once somewhere, but could never find them again. What is the wall thickness and material spec for those tubes? Thanks Jeff

Yes I know what you mean about the bar hitting the tie rod. Keeping the bar close to the frame rails helps with this, but your idea for a different tie rod is perfect. I built some straight tie rods from 4340 with heim joints on the end to adjust for bump steer, as well as give more clearance on lowered cars. Have not tried them yet. The tricky part about making the tie rods was the fact that one of the inner tie rods uses an m14x1.5 left hand thread. I found that if you call McMaster Carr they can custom make any tap you want for a reasonable price.

check this link http://aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/fittings.html aircraft spruce

Here is how I fixed my setup. Same problem with the mounts cracking, as I have been using heim joints on the ends and solid aluminum with 20% glass filled Teflon bushings for the pillow blocks. I wanted to keep a factory look to it so I made the gusset plate similar to the existing gusset on the cross member pick up. I rosette welded it on and through the bottom of the rail. The good part for me was no burned up paint in the engine compartment as it is covered by the frame rails. I saw mentioned earlier about mounting the sway bar end links to the strut, this is how I have mine. Two reasons why I did this. First I could use a longer end link, minimizing the movement of the link, and lessening the chance of binding, and second, by mounting the link on top I could put the bar down closer to the control arm, improving the angle of the bar. I was looking for the bar to be flat when under braking. John, do you remember that article a while back in Race Car Engineering, where they talk about the rate of the bar changing as it rotates and the angle of the end link moves from perpendicular relative to the bar? They suggested that this could be an advantage. Has you read this article? Seems like most of the new cars are done this way, any disadvantages? Here are some pics.

I have read that completely removing the guide bosses can actually hurt flow. The idea was to thin them out, as thin as the guide, and then give them a leading and trailing edge to enhance the flow around the guides. They are also directed them with the shape of the port to enhance swirl. I have also heard that the trailing edge rib remove the possibility of the air expanding behind the guide and slowing down the flow, as well as the wet flow of the head being improved. This is all just what I have read, so we won’t know until I finish the port work and flow test it, then run it. Braap, do you have anything to add about your experiences with the shaping of the guide bosses

I just found the answer to my questions http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/0211hpp_cylinder_head_flow_testing_ii/

Can someone explain to me the difference and advantages between "flow" and "velocity" It seems to be you can make a port flow by opening it up, way up, but then people talk about loosing the velocity if you go too big. It seems for a NA motor you need the flow for High RPM and the velocity for low RPM (we always want it all)?? But what about a turbo motor? Is velocity less important because of the turbo? how does all this affect off boost vs. on boost? The American car guys quote port volume, and I believe it relates to the size of the engine being built, a bigger motor needs more air, but will it also tolerate the bigger port volume due to the fact that the bigger engine also increases the velocity? Am I getting this correct?

Thanks Paul, After this last round of CNC work I can see the areas that I think need to be changed, so back to the computer. I will probably add epoxy to the low spots I don't like, and hand finish one of the chambers to flow test it. At my speed it will be another year, so I figured I would finally show it. I have some other things coming together which I will be posting soon. Have a good one, Jeff

This next set of pictures is of a P-90 head that has been "welded up" and roughed out with a CNC on the chambers and port bowls right of the Cad files above. The surface machining was done in a radial pattern outward from the center of the valve guide at 3 degrees and it took 8 hours of machine time. A finish pass would be 1 degree and waaay more time. Since this is just a test I figured why waste the time. There a still plenty on low spots that would need more welding and another pass, but I would probably just start over. Some details to note - angled spark plus towards the exhaust valve 15 degrees. Designed for OS valves 46 and 38. Would need the block eyebrowed I assume. Double quench pads. Streamlined leading and trailing edges on the valve guides. 54cc chamber size. Jeff

Been thinking alot about what a modern 2 valve Z head would look like given all the info out there about 2 valve American engines and everything being done to them to generate big power on pump gas. So I have spent time on and off working on a 3-D CAD model of what I think it would be like for a Z-head. First, I by any means do not know what I am doing, I have only built and run 1 welded and reshaped head that is currently on my 240, and luck would have it, it runs pretty darn good. I am only doing this for fun, and really have no idea of how it will work until I finish it up, flow test it and ultimately run it. This thread has been kinda dead for a while, so hopefully this will get some more ideas going, Here some pics of the CAD File for discussion.

Hi David, Yes I am fuel injected running a Tec3r; it is a 240 block with a welded chamber N-42 head. I run the early 280 5-speed tranny with a Quaife 4.11 diff. I don’t remember what I paid for it, but it does come as a complete kit with bulkhead fittings, hose, HP Walbro pump, electrical bulkhead, filter, pretty much everything. I ordered it from here Earl's Racestore 1 Lawndale, CA 310.644.0881 You can actually buy the trap doors and all the parts separately, I don’t remember where I found it but I know ATL can send you a complete parts list, if you want to make you own box. Jeff

Sorry no other pics during the build, I actually did more work than I think I really needed, as I actually cut the entire tank apart top to bottom along the seam weld. I did this thinking I was going to originally build my own baffles and trap doors. I then found the black box and said "@#%$" what would have been a lot easier. So it still has the baffle plate inside with a trap door right along side where the fuel level sender float moves. It ended up being a perfect way to hold the safety foam away from the sender float. So here is the hot tip, - the top of the tank is not totally flat, and the tank cannot get any thicker because the spot were the opening is, is where it hits the bottom of the car to mount. What I did was make a template of the fuel cell plate 3/16 offset around the perimeter. I then cut a 3/8 thick pc of aluminum of this template to make a forming buck. I clamped a pc of 18 gauge steel sheet and hammered the sheet around the form to make a "pocket". I then laid this pocket on top of the tank and traced it on the tank, then cut the tank out this exact size. I set the pocket into the cutout and tacked it in place. some of the leftover flange from the pocket will be sticking up and some of the low spots were it is not flat will be just flush. Grind off the extra flange to match the shape of the tank top, and then weld to make a perfect seem. Then re-cut the access hole in the new pocket and drill all of the mounting holes. The original fill plate will now fit into the pocket perfect. I know pictures would help, but I think if you look at the pics close you will see what I mean. Have fun Jeff

I bought a thing called "black Box" from ATL with the pump and all. It has trap doors built into it like the Nissan Comp oil pan. I cut a access hole in the top of the tank for a standard Fuel cell plate. Mounted it all up with safety foam and AN fittings. Works perfect for Autocross no matter how low the fuel is. Best part is it looks stock when mounted. Jeff