MONZTER

Rainer, Ignore the initial advance number, that is for start-up only. Just look at the numbers on the chart. Also, please remember what Ron said, every configuration and every car will be different. Please use the chart as a reference only. Best regards Jeff

Hi Rainer, Those are my actual timing numbers per RPM and MAP points. The head has small 36cc chambers so the burn is very fast. A few degrees is probably need to be added for a stock N-42 head

Thanks for the help. Good point about the fuel cut on a turbo engine Jeff

Hey Tec 3 people. I never have got my rev limiter to be "soft" It seem to come on very aggressive and really jerk the car hard when it hits. I have it set to 8000, so I am worried about the sudden hit shaking the drive train to bits. For tunng, I have set the rev limit to 3000 to try and get a soft limit while street driving, but have had no luck. It seems like the different setting don't do too much. Do any of you guys have a good set-up you would like to share the parameters with me and the group. Thanks Jeff

Maybe this thread will help. Some of us posted our Tec 3 tables. My car is also a L-24, but my head is pretty modified so my timing might seem a little less than most. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406 Best Regards Jeff

When I had 225-50-16 v700 all the way around, I used 1 inch up front and 3/4 rear mount Addco style in back, felt great for me. When I switched to 245 45-16 all the way around the car went from what I like to way more oversteer. I tried no bar in the back, but the car felt kinda slow to respond to input, I even tried more rear toe / no good. I next tried a 1-1/8 front with the 3/4 rear bar again, still not feeling good. Finally, I made a new rear bar out of 5/8 stress proof and put the 1" back in front and the car is back on track to what I like.

Hi David, Been running my tank set-up for over 1 year now. I have been autocrossing it as well as daily driving it. I can say I have never had a single problem with fuel starvation. I can run below a 1/4 tank for autocross and not a problem. I will use this same set-up for my turbo motor I am building with no worries. Jeff

I just had a head done by Dave Rebello. I sent him OS 46mm intake and OS 38mm exhaust, as well as stock size Intake and stock size exhaust, all were SS swirl polished undercut. I also sent him oversized seats. When he was done with it he ended up using the OS valve seats, the stock size intake, and machined the OS exhaust down to be only 1mm bigger than stock. He said he does not like the OS valves from his testing. So my head when finished flowed 212 at 25" .5 lift on the intake and 150 at 25" .5 lift on the exhaust. Note: this head was a p-90 for my turbo project and the valves were the SI brand. BTW from what I can tell everybody is using the SI valves and just re-selling them. You can buy the SS swirl polished, undercut ones diretly from them for about $8.00 each and they ship really fast. Nice parts. here is their link http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html Hope this helps Jeff

Looks like it should be perfectly aligned now, good idea

Thanks for the help guys, your comments got my brain working again, I figured out what I am going to do. Best Regards Jeff

Thanks Tony, So you think the integrated log in the cannon manifold is not good enough.. huh..( I think the ID is .5") , I should add a second log... Is this to isolate the log equally from any particular runner? Thanks again Jeff

What is your guys opinion on the best source for a vacuum signal on a triple throttle body turbo set up. I need a good signal for MAP, Fuel pressure regulator, Boost gauge and Blow off Valve. I was thinking about using the Cannon Manifold that has the tube connecting all the runners, and then tapping into only the last runner closest to the firewall. Do you think I will get a good clean signal, or will it be biased too much to the last cylinder? I want to be as clean looking as possible without a bunch of hoses running everywhere, like if I used all 6 of the fittings in the throttle bodies and made a separate vacuum log. Thanks for your opinions Jeff

Some people said they were saving them. How do you do that? I cant figure it out, does youtube let you do it. Thanks Jeff

just finshed doing mine. Also have to remove the shifting insert form the side of the case (2 10mm screw heads), and push out the pin on the shifter rod at the shifter cover plate. Here is the fische for that trans. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s13/?3:a:10

I saw this somewhere It looked like it was just thrown together HAHAH

My Understanding is that MSA is getting them from a special source in Japan. Before they were NLA in the US I got mine from MSA for 130.00. I assume there getting ripped on the price, and then mark it up there standard amount, thus the final high price. I guess it all supply and demand, and people gota make a living.

Hey Tim, Who did your ceramic coating, and which process was it. Thanks Jeff

I don't know if this the correct way to start tuning, but I am self taught and this works for me. 1.) I set my VE Table to Zero and then put in what UAP and POT Wintec recommends based on the tuning wizard 2.) I set my Correction factor to something stupid like 50% (I am using a wideband connected tot the Tec unit) 3.) I start the car and immediately go to the VE table correction and start tweaking the table in the appropriate cell to get it to idle until warmed up 4.) after I get it warmed up I continue to tweak the VE table until it is idling where I want it to be ( for me 14.64) 5.) Next shut the car down and switch the VE table over to the Fuel Table (Corrected Injector Pulsewidth (ms) 6.) I look and write the numbers (Offset FPW) in the MAP and RPM zone I was idling in, and then look and write down the numbers (Offset FPW) where I believe my max RPM and MAP will be. 7.) I go back to the VE table and re-zero out the entire table 8.) I once again go back to the fuel table and look at the changed numbers 9.) I now adjust my UAP and POT settings on the top of the page up and down until I get the cells back to the numbers I wrote down before I re-zeroed my VE table 10.) I re-start the car and it idles pretty good with little correction 11.) I do some wide open pulls in third gear and once again tweak the VE table until it is where I want it running 12.) shut down the car and repeat steps 5 through 9 focusing this time on my max RPM and MAP cells 13.) re-start the car and it is really close on the idle and WOT 14.) Turn the correction factor way down to like 10 and get my accell and other enrichment parameters configured 15.) Go for a drive with the autotune on and let it dial in the VE table 16.) change the VE table to a graph and smooth it out 17.) Car runs pretty darn good Again this is my method, and I have no idea if it is correct or way harder than it should be, It just works for me. I think it would be great to hear anyone else's methods Jeff