MONZTER

When I had 225-50-16 v700 all the way around, I used 1 inch up front and 3/4 rear mount Addco style in back, felt great for me. When I switched to 245 45-16 all the way around the car went from what I like to way more oversteer. I tried no bar in the back, but the car felt kinda slow to respond to input, I even tried more rear toe / no good. I next tried a 1-1/8 front with the 3/4 rear bar again, still not feeling good. Finally, I made a new rear bar out of 5/8 stress proof and put the 1" back in front and the car is back on track to what I like.

Hi David, Been running my tank set-up for over 1 year now. I have been autocrossing it as well as daily driving it. I can say I have never had a single problem with fuel starvation. I can run below a 1/4 tank for autocross and not a problem. I will use this same set-up for my turbo motor I am building with no worries. Jeff

I just had a head done by Dave Rebello. I sent him OS 46mm intake and OS 38mm exhaust, as well as stock size Intake and stock size exhaust, all were SS swirl polished undercut. I also sent him oversized seats. When he was done with it he ended up using the OS valve seats, the stock size intake, and machined the OS exhaust down to be only 1mm bigger than stock. He said he does not like the OS valves from his testing. So my head when finished flowed 212 at 25" .5 lift on the intake and 150 at 25" .5 lift on the exhaust. Note: this head was a p-90 for my turbo project and the valves were the SI brand. BTW from what I can tell everybody is using the SI valves and just re-selling them. You can buy the SS swirl polished, undercut ones diretly from them for about $8.00 each and they ship really fast. Nice parts. here is their link http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html Hope this helps Jeff

Looks like it should be perfectly aligned now, good idea

Thanks for the help guys, your comments got my brain working again, I figured out what I am going to do. Best Regards Jeff

Thanks Tony, So you think the integrated log in the cannon manifold is not good enough.. huh..( I think the ID is .5") , I should add a second log... Is this to isolate the log equally from any particular runner? Thanks again Jeff

What is your guys opinion on the best source for a vacuum signal on a triple throttle body turbo set up. I need a good signal for MAP, Fuel pressure regulator, Boost gauge and Blow off Valve. I was thinking about using the Cannon Manifold that has the tube connecting all the runners, and then tapping into only the last runner closest to the firewall. Do you think I will get a good clean signal, or will it be biased too much to the last cylinder? I want to be as clean looking as possible without a bunch of hoses running everywhere, like if I used all 6 of the fittings in the throttle bodies and made a separate vacuum log. Thanks for your opinions Jeff

Some people said they were saving them. How do you do that? I cant figure it out, does youtube let you do it. Thanks Jeff

just finshed doing mine. Also have to remove the shifting insert form the side of the case (2 10mm screw heads), and push out the pin on the shifter rod at the shifter cover plate. Here is the fische for that trans. http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s13/?3:a:10

I saw this somewhere It looked like it was just thrown together HAHAH

My Understanding is that MSA is getting them from a special source in Japan. Before they were NLA in the US I got mine from MSA for 130.00. I assume there getting ripped on the price, and then mark it up there standard amount, thus the final high price. I guess it all supply and demand, and people gota make a living.

Hey Tim, Who did your ceramic coating, and which process was it. Thanks Jeff

I don't know if this the correct way to start tuning, but I am self taught and this works for me. 1.) I set my VE Table to Zero and then put in what UAP and POT Wintec recommends based on the tuning wizard 2.) I set my Correction factor to something stupid like 50% (I am using a wideband connected tot the Tec unit) 3.) I start the car and immediately go to the VE table correction and start tweaking the table in the appropriate cell to get it to idle until warmed up 4.) after I get it warmed up I continue to tweak the VE table until it is idling where I want it to be ( for me 14.64) 5.) Next shut the car down and switch the VE table over to the Fuel Table (Corrected Injector Pulsewidth (ms) 6.) I look and write the numbers (Offset FPW) in the MAP and RPM zone I was idling in, and then look and write down the numbers (Offset FPW) where I believe my max RPM and MAP will be. 7.) I go back to the VE table and re-zero out the entire table 8.) I once again go back to the fuel table and look at the changed numbers 9.) I now adjust my UAP and POT settings on the top of the page up and down until I get the cells back to the numbers I wrote down before I re-zeroed my VE table 10.) I re-start the car and it idles pretty good with little correction 11.) I do some wide open pulls in third gear and once again tweak the VE table until it is where I want it running 12.) shut down the car and repeat steps 5 through 9 focusing this time on my max RPM and MAP cells 13.) re-start the car and it is really close on the idle and WOT 14.) Turn the correction factor way down to like 10 and get my accell and other enrichment parameters configured 15.) Go for a drive with the autotune on and let it dial in the VE table 16.) change the VE table to a graph and smooth it out 17.) Car runs pretty darn good Again this is my method, and I have no idea if it is correct or way harder than it should be, It just works for me. I think it would be great to hear anyone else's methods Jeff

Hey Rags, I did not mean you were wrong, just wanted you to know that the two were tied together. I just did not want to see you spending money on dyno time to get the TOG perfectly dialed in, only to find out it needs to be changed after modifying the IOT to get it to idle. I did my initial tuning on the street with the correction factor set at 50%. Once I got my TOG and IOT within 5% correction, I went to the dyno to tune the VE table. Even after the VE tune on the dyno I found some more power from data logging and doing an auto tune function, and then smoothing it out on the graph. I posted some of my tables on this link. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406 Good Luck Jeff

I don’t think that’s quite correct, as the TOG and the IOT work together. If you dial in the TOG and then change the IOT the curve will move down or up requiring you to modify the TOG again. It is a balancing act to get the car to idle correctly and do a full throttle pull. Once you get this worked out it time for the VE correction. I recommend lots of reading: Check out this manual http://www.directignition.com/pdf_files/tec3r.pdf look at pages 61 down it has a good explanation of what you are trying to do. Here is another good source of info http://www.thenewspaper.com/auto/info/tecfaq.htm it is about the Tec II, but still really the same. It is in a forum format so it is a little more real world.

Wow, thanks for the comments, much appreciated. I have not finished the front dif mount yet. I am waiting to finish my 3" exhaust routing, and then will build the mount around that. I think somebody else around hear built a mount using the mounting holes for the diff strap. Looks like a good idea, I will probably do something like that. Jeff

Tim, I can cut up more of the head, but it looks as if the "flash web" runs the length of it. I would say it is a casting error. You can really see the difference in the quality of the casting between a N-42 and the P-90. On the outside near the port openings a N-42 is very nice and smooth. On a P-90 that same area is very inconsistent and rough. I wonder if this reflects on the inside. Tony D, it looks like you could access some of the flash through some of the openings in the gasket surface, and also by removing the plugs in the rocker valley. Sorry I cant cut up the N-42, its in great shape and going to be used on one of my projects. I did compare the water ports on the P-90 and the N-42 and they were the same. I think it was the E-31 that was different. Jeff

Hey Guys, Here are the pics of the cut-up P-90 showing the inside water passages. The first two pictures show the inlet points in the gasket surface. You will notice that there are holes in the head that are blocked off by the HKS steel gasket. These could flow water if the gasket was opened up. In the second picture you will see holes in the head gasket that do not have holes going into the head. This makes me wonder if this was for a reason, or just a manufacturing convenience, so that 1 head gasket design would fit many application of the different years. I wonder if an improvement could be had by opening the gasket up to the holes in the head, and the head up to the gasket. Hmmm. The other pictures show a large casting flash rib blocking probably 50% of the water passage from the bottom of the head to the top. This web was going from the #6 to the #5 cylinder. It appears that these flash webs are through the whole head. There are also some large casting bumps from the exhaust studs that would appear to restrict flow. The final pics show the nice open cavity that flows above the exhaust ports. We talked about taping into the head above the exhaust ports, this looks like an ideal place. Sorry about the big pics, but wanted to show the details. Click the pics to enlarge them from my gallery Enjoy, Jeff