SHADY280

ppl would have fun trying to move my seats fwd. they are both bolted directly down, so if your shorter than me, screw off!! and all the random made or found parts to make things work proper. theres nothing wrong, but trying to find replacements would be a bit funny for some stuff. i cant even remeber what for, until something goes wrong.

the plastic is actually really nice to have in a booth. it draws all the paint away from the car, and reduces the overspray on the body. my early spray booths were like that. now i finally built a permenat one, insulated and all. i still put a small sheet of plastic on the wall to draw any dust and particles to it. you may want to put filters on your fans to avoid being spotted in the neighborhood, and making your garage and house the color of the paint job.

tomb, i really hope you got knocked out during the crash so you didnt feel it. good to hear your still around. when i get to see stuff like that its cause the ppl died.

it seems nobody here likes to respond to my questions, maybe cause im new here, or its too dificult to type

i like screwing with 600cc minus sport bikes. if they are over 600 im screwed. they tailgate you thinking theyll get past you on the highway on ramp, well that is until i put it to the wood. the look on there faces is just great. highway ramps are the only time i get to have fun around here. its just unsafe otherwise.

hahahaha id never buy a saw from princess auto. not for any sort of accurate cutting at least. the other stuff at princess auto is o.k if its not electrically powered.

hmmmm very nice. you guys are sweet with the photoshop, the only thing that stopped me from doing widebody on mine is the dang wheels. sounds stupid but i just cant seem to throw that cash away. up here just costs too much. i like your working form the s130 platform.

well if 1793 was bent in half then well o.k. still sad tho. i rescued my car, was totally rusted out. only parts i kept were the roof, doors, hood, hatch. look what i made my self. pretty much a new car for not that much cash. id save just about anything that wasnt bent in half. only if it were a 1970-1983 z car tho. someone on here has got to have a front clip that is good, and can have it quickly shipped to you. then just ship that other car to me. ill save it.

try buying the 2mm head gasket, should lower the cr by about 1 point from stock. anything can have a turbo slapped on it, but just run within a safe boost level for that motor. you may only get 2-4 psi b4 its dangerous. just find a early l28 (n47) block with dished, and install you head. problem is cheaply fixed.

so heres a thought, dont know if anyone has tried it or not. im tired of that stupid wire on the temp sending guage being loose and it causes the guage to be in-accurate. so what can we do to have a more accurate readings. like use a ford or chevy, or more modern type sender. will it be accurate?? i like the ford ones, they have a stud on them and the wire uses a loop terminal. seems fool proof to me. anyone done this??? any help is app.

anybody got parts to send to dat240zg??? kinda seems stupid to cut up a early car that nice to save another nice car. parts cars in crappier shape should almost be the solution. not critizing, but slightly rusted car up here are super rare and a shell like that could pay off. you could get a rear ended car and use the front. just shaking my head at this one.

yeah the trails here in vancouver are very crazy, 20 feet up on 6" wide wooden planks, then go over a tee-ter-totter. there is one local norco rider who does them on a unicycle. theres prolly video somewhere of those team norco guys. its just normal to us!!

^ oil filter that doesnt drain???

drifting at auto x!! this is the z meet i hold every year, keeps getting bigger. in the mountains by my house.

i mounted my belts to the shock towers. they are almost level with my seatbelt slots. i made a thick metal tab, then the belt mounts to it.

hmmm im liking this, gonna try and do a z31 ecu on a na. its cheap and better than the crap 79 system. just dont have the 400 it takes to do mega squirt. although it is the way to go.

the pertronix just drops right in. sweet conversion.

im maikng a bsr car, but there is absoutly no need for that kind of frivilous spending. i should really make them, or something, prolly could pay off the whole car.

this is what im going to start looking into, you need a 280zx dizzy, with the early 300zx chopper wheel for a sensor. that will give the ecu a place to reference off of. you didnt metion this, so start there. also on the turbo ones, there is some resistors that need to be changed, i just havent read enough to "get it" i want to do this on my n/a cause im tired of the crap 79 system.

i got a question, now that youve driven this, how are the ratios for n/a cars??? the stock trannys are such crap that this slightly more modern upgrade is almost a must for someone like me who beats the living crap outta his trannys at autox and on the street. good write-up as well.

someone has to have some of the original race cars somewhere (bob sharp, and the electramotive cars) and everyone here has some exellent pieces of work (stock) that would make some fine driving for alain. and the range of technology is perfect for the show. so who can we email

yeah if alain did the datsun show, you guys would have to listen to the proper saying of the letter zed!!! the ford one is worth watching tho, saw it the other day. so if we all email speed, think we could get a datsun one going?

the std z32 struts dont work, so i asked more detail. he said they are from a 92 2+2. the coupe ones are very short it seems. i never thought about using the zxr ones tho. are they any stronger? that wing is lighter weight rubber isnt it?

so its fixed!! (crosses fingers) it turns out my crappy maxi fuse holder from ebay was partly to blame. it was causing some extra draw, 120 total amps!!! thats why the 80 was blowing. my car will draw 100 max. with everything, and i mean everything "on". its mostly because of all the extra eletrical stuff. fuel pump, msd, fans, radio, etc. that and its all old wiring, and old skool components. oh and a slightly dead battery from starting and stopping so often that coupla days.

when the main line is connected to the alt. stud, everything is fine at idle. when you give it 300 rpm or more, the alternator goes to full field voltage (18v). like when you put a screwdriver in the "D" port. if thats dissconected (the main feed) the whole car acts as if normal, and doesnt blow any fuses. its kinda wierd, everything was fine for some time now, it all worked very well. my volt guage has never been acurate. then i did some voltage drop testing to make sure b4 the trip, and i touched the maxi fuse holder, and it didnt work right after that. the little lights stopped working and the digital readout was acting funny. im wondering if that maxi holder is causing the problem. what else can cause the alternator to go full field??it all seems simple yet very wierd and difficult.