SHADY280

so i replaced the alternator tonight, no change in the problem. i am using an ebay fuse holder, that has the voltage readout, and a thing to tell what fuses are out. if i disconnect the wire running to the alt main, the problem goes away. ive run #4 ga. to the alternator to the fuse holder, so its all good. plus all connections are soldered. im also wondring if the ebay holder is shorting. im going to try swapping it to a different holder location. i love the swap, just its something causing the full feild condition. i think it also blew the voltage guage. if the blue wire has a problem, where does it run, and what does it control? is it just the idiot light? i need some major help, after all its 1 week to msa, and i dont wanna cancel!!!!! HELP!!!

well ive had the gm 12si alternator swap and maxi fuse upgrade for 2 months now, and the alternator is already screwed. the only gm part on my car spiked at 18 volts, blew the maxi 80 amp fuse!! its not like it was a used alternator either, it was new. could anything on my car cause pre-mature failure to my alternator. im leaving for msa in a week, so it kinda has to make it. after all its only 1400 miles each way.

all i can say is ouch. i help inspect fatal crashes for the cops here. it really is bad when your not bothered by the blood anymore.

ive only noticed high under hood temps, and power loss since installing the 195, the engine bay is very warm now. it used to bearable. i think i shall visit nissan and get a 180 or 185, the 10/15 deg. should make a diff. it would also help if i remembered what exactly what i put in, i kept swapping them trying to see what would happen. the last one i remember installing is the 195, so hope im right. i have noticed this cheap stat sticking once in a while, so its best to get a oem replacement. or what other good quality ones can a person get?

here a huge website on them ,and them running. complete with parts lists, and prices. not too shabby, seems that it would be cool in one of those 1/16 scale r/c cars!! http://www.nvbackflow.com/engines/

this is why i post questions here, they usually have scientific facts to back them up. i will switch to the 160, and see what happens. my system is in VERY good shape, so no worries there. and since the swap from 180 to 195, i have noticed considerable power loss and engine bay temps come to think of it. ive been trying to tune around it, but hot engines just dont work that way. now would a oil cooler be of any benifit to a car that has NO turbo to severly increase the oil temps?

thank you guys, now i have some info to run off of. i live in canada, so cali is known to be hot all the time according to us whom dont visit down there, esecially in 27 year old cars. i run a heavily modded 79 280zx. the reason i ask is the rad shop that re-cored my rad (3 core dense) said that if i run too cool a thermostat, it will flow too quickly thru the rad, thus not cooling it, but his knowledge is based on our cooler temps. that is why i come here and ask, you guys live down there, drive down there. just made sense to me, sorry i got kinda testy, watching the views go up with no response get to ones brain!!

im kinda disaapointed in all who have viewed and not answered. there has to be some ppl here that at least know what thermostat they run in there cars. or does everyone have cars that dont run?!?

what you could always do is look at previous racecar setups. bob sharp, and the other simmilar winning cars and start there. i know my car with low pro whale tail and bob sharp air dam, really sucks down on the highway. an under tray built correctly would be a improvement on these older cars. there is a areodynamics thread somewhere around here, gets pretty in depth, try searching for that one.

o.k so im driving 1400 miles to msa this year, and back again. i got a 195 thermostat, i think in there right now (heavy modded n/a motor). 3 core dense rad, 16" puller fan. what does everyone else run in hot temps down there. im asking cause my car never sees past 34 deg celcius up here in canada. i just dont want to overheat in cali. really need input on this one. any help is appreciated.

that sucks, hope you get fair coin for it. also very good to hear everyone is fine so far. the pain of the crash never sets in till later. usually the next morning.

thank you ice!!!! im ordering tommorrow!!! im tired of the old hatch in the back of the head. ive been searching for some time for this fix.

doesnt flowmaster have something small, havent followed the latest from them, but i thought i saw an ad.

those headers arent so bad, my buddy had one, seemed to work o.k. specially for your application. it really helps the exhaust note, even on a stock vehicle. the fit and finish was o.k on his, but it musta been made on wednesday!!

good work! the only thing i could see that would realy help it out, is the little piece in front of the front wheels on the dam. its leaned back towards the wheels. if it were leaned fwd, it would carry the fender line better. although i can understand why you did that, it wouldnt mould to the front if ya tilted it fwd.

the large fiberglass one from msa weighs a ton on the hatch. even with new struts, it doesnt stay up. so its off to the parts store to find ones with more capacity.

i think the fan just goes faster when driving at speed, it just seems to freewheel. my fan has been on my daily car now for 3 years, and only had a problem when it had a temp switch. thats why i run it off a switched source now. along with my injector cooling fan, its on the same circuit switch. last thing you need is one more part to break and cause the motor to overheat in traffic.

may want to replace that spin nut connector on your msd dtsnlvrs. the better the connection, the better the signal. i noticed problems on mine, even when i had used the stock spade connectors. its all soldered now. not to pick at your setup.

i didnt get it, sold for 86 bux. none for me.

there ya go, its mounted on a sheet metal stand, then the coil was mounted "tits up" cause your supposed to mount oil filled coils that way, but who reads instructions?

im bidding on it, currently at 51 bux, i need it for the bob sharp race car.

id go with the 40 series as well. i got 255/40/r17's on mine and am very happy with it in normal street driving, as well as handling and ride quality. wanders in truck ruts tho.

i really wish i could invest that kind of time and money into my car to do things like that. i am very impressed, as i too am an n/a lover. turbo is neat and all, but just not like n/a. ive never even thought of mounting the battery low like that either, and nice to see the ac was kept. that car gonna be at msa this year (07)??

its kinda funny actually, i was starting to think the same stuff here the other day. i run a 195 in my s130. the guys at a rad shop said that a lower heat opening thermostat, will actually hinder cooling, by letting the collant cycle too fast, thus the rad cant cool it. i had a 180 (trying to get it to cool down) if you have a thicker, denser, high performance rad, it will flow too much and cause a overheating problem. i run a very cheap fan that runs always as long as the key is "on" it seems to work, but the fan doesnt flow lots so my temp creeps past the center all the time, but never goes higher. just a little food for thought

i see where it was hit now, still would taken it from ya! can you say race car?