rejracer

Where is this place? I've been looking for a 710 cap for ages, when I call no one seems to know. Do you have a spare 710 cap laying around I could buy?

The spacers are only used with the automatics. Do NOT use them between the crank and flywheel.

Typically you match the throw out collar to the pressure plate you are using. Since you are using the 350z pressure plate, you will need to determine the distance of the clutch forks to the transmission snout. measure from the clutch forks to the engine block with dust cover installed. Then measure from the bell housing to where the throwout collar seats on the transmission. The difference of these two numbers (plus a mm or so clearance) is the length of the clutch collar/bearing combo. Then find the collar and bearing combo that suits your needs. The only difference in the collars is the length. When going from a 240 or 260z to a newer clutch you need to go with the longer 280zx collar. I suspect the 350z clutch is the same height as the 280zx, but I don't know.

I've never seen one without A/C or power windows. The only options i know of are automatic climate control, voice warning system and digital vs standard cluster.

I am surprised how smooth it ran with 1&2 not firing. Exhaust smelled like it should without a cat under it. Exhaust pipe was clean, no heavy soot on it. Boosted 1 lb higher than last test. Power is up We will learn more from future plug readings. Other notes: I did not expect the stock RB25 turbo to spool up so fast. Surprised how little it had up high, but this may change once the car gets more dialed in. I had a T3 in my ZXT when it was a car and not a engine sitting in my garage, and I don't recall it spooling up that fast. I sense a drag race between 2 Z's in the near future.

If you check out the pics, the 1&2 spark plugs are showing these anomalies. 1. The flat surface ring of the chamber end is showing no signs of combustion. We did not clean the plugs. Notice 1&2 are much cleaner. 2. The ceramic insulators are darker in color. 3. #1 insulator had black smudge on it. Other notes: A) #1&2 had no fuel smell to it when we pulled them. Car had only been off for a few minutes before we started pulling the plugs. The piston tops were darker and looked wetter than the other 4 cylinders. Cylinders 4-6 had a brownish tint to them, and 1&2 were much darker and a bit oily. C) Bill's cold start test will give more insight. If the miss is just as bad, then I'll lean towards fuel, if it's slightly improved we can further inspect ignition. D) The vehicle does not smoke. Exhaust smells rich, not oily. I gapped the plugs, did not know about the platinum tips! Sorry Bonk. When Bill replaced the plugs the miss was there immediately on start up. Knowing we have good compression that says there is a fuel or ignition issue. At this point I don't believe the engine mechanical is causing the misfire, although there may be an issue that needs correction. Without proper combustion a cylinder will get oily. So my advice it to continue to work the miss issue and then after X miles, recheck for possible excess oil in the chamber. My revised theory: 1&2 are dead, and as such are pumping oxygen into the exhaust. The 02 sensor is picking up this 02 and enriching the mixture. 3-6 are running rich, very rich. when the 02 from 1-2 mixes with the unburnt fuel from 3-6 an exhaust backfire happens. The only thing that is throwing me off is how smooth the engine runs. If 1&2 were dead, I don't think it would not be so smooth. -REJ

On first read of the title I wanted to respond "well where did it go, it was there last night?" The engine is backfiring through the exhaust. This to me indicates unburnt mixture is igniting in the exhaust. Toluene is what I was going to use, it's an excellent fuel system cleaner. As of now I suspect it's either an ignition issue or an injector spray pattern problem. The plan is to do the following in an attempt to collect info so we can identify the problem. 1. check coils for signs of carbon scoring indicative of a failing coil. (free) 2. compression check (Free) 3. "read" the plugs, check gap. (Free) 4. check for exhaust manifold leak (free) 5. check exhaust manifold temps with pyrometer, looking for temp variation. (free) 6. fuel injector cleaner (12.00 for 1 gal of toluene ) 7. check injector spray pattern 8. New 02 sensor ? I'm open to suggestions on how to narrow it down. -Robert

I've driven it dozens of times in my 72 240. I used to make the trip from Sacramento to LA once a month, never had a problem.

Deep cycle batteries have less cranking amps, but can handle being discharged fully and then charged more than a non deep cycle battery. If you have a deal on a yellow top and it's big enough then go for it.

If you keep the red tops charged up, they will last 10+ years. That's hard to beat. Yellow tops are deep cycle batteries.

I agree with all 4 points! I am running a 14" wheel now, and don't want a larger wheel. It's just a matter of time though. I would add that a low profile tire on rough roads is more unpredictable than a higher profile tire. I will need to section my struts and raise the diff to offset the effects of the larger wheeltire package.

Thanks NewZed, I did not know the 240sx transmission was referred to as the H version of the transmission. Other than that, Ditto to what you said.

If you have a 260z block which has been eyebrowed then nothing, bolt it on and run it. If you have a 240z block then you will need to notch the cylinder bores to clear the valves.

In street application on a carb'd car there is small advantage with a lot of work. The only reason the older tanks benefit from a surge tank is so that the pump feeds don't run dry during hard braking or cornering. Since the 280 tank is already set up for fuel injection that will not be an issue. The biggest issue you will face with the stock tank is the fuel line diameter, but that can be fixed. When you go with a fuel cell you will have to do some custom fabrication on the car to get it mounted correctly. The easy thing with fuel cells is the plumbing as you just pop in whatever size AN fittings you want.

Machining is a given on these trans swaps 300zx, 240sx, 240-280zx, and RB transmissions all use the same length input shafts/bell housings. I don't know if the RB 71C box has the same splines, but I assume they do at this point. I know all the others do.

Sorry for the lack of detail. HP calculators don't consider a lot of factors. Since you are running an automatic, are you going to run a stock size converter or go to a newer 8 or 9" unit. The smaller converters really smooth out the power application and allow you to run more power on a given drive train, but more importantly they lay the power down to the wheels smoother, which helps with the traction. Another detail HP calculators don't consider is component matching. For example where does your cam come alive? Your cam selection is a major factor in choosing what stall and STR you choose for your torque converter. The right choice in converter is capable of dropping 1/4 mile times by .5 sec by itself. I guess the question you need to answer is are you really looking for a number, or are you asking what you need to do with the entire car to attain your goals? Drag racing is all about optimizing combinations, not numbers. Get the weight down low, pull off the sway bars, move the weight to the rear of the vehicle. Just some guidelines that make you get lower times with less power. You had also mentioned drivetrain loss. Make sure your drive line and half shaft angles are good under load. The reason for me bringing this up is that the closer to ideal the chassis and drive train setup is, then the more accurate the HP calculators are going to be. In a nutshell start with the HP calculator and add 1 hp per suckage point your drive train, chassis and driving rack up. So how much does your chassis, drive train and driving suck? I say this in jest, but I think the point is made that there is very little that others can tell you on the forums without much much more information on your car. In my opinon, your goals are very attainable with a 327ci engine.

I did the hole saw method, used a 1/2" drill with the wire wheel, and had the job done in less than 20 mins. As I recall we (Bonk and I) used the hole saw, then a knife to cut the big chunks left, then the wire wheel. Worked great.

Click me for answer

Kaito, The adapters for the 300zx are intended for the Fs5r30A which is a much stronger transmission than the "240sx" transmission. I assume that they would work for the 300zx Fs5w71c as well, but why would you buy 250$ in adapters when you can get 150.00 in machine work done on an L series bell housing. The 300zx fs5w71c will swap bell housings with an early Z or ZX transmission. The 300zx Fs5r30A will not swap bell housings with a Z transmission. I have come to find out that the RB20 FS5W71C is ~2" shorter than the 240sx transmission. I will now need to take measurements on my 300zx transmission to determine it's length.

Thanks for the info, I did not notice the 3rd gear synchro on the 1989 FSM when I opened it. I'm curious now if you can swap out the 3rd gear syncho or reverse synchro to have the best of both worlds. Bahh.. that breaks my custom parts rule, but still food for thought.

Just to confirm, they used the 71C in the 1989 300zx per the FSM. It also does not have the reverse synchro. I downloaded the 1995 240sx FSM from Nicoclub and found that the box has the double cone synchro on 2nd and a synchronized reverse. So it looks like the 240sx it the best box to use. I also found another thread that stated that the shifter location between the 240sx transmission and the RB20 transmission are in different location, with the 240sx being further back. It also stated the 240sx transmission is longer. What I've not found out is what type of internals are in a RB20DET 71C box. Any links appreciated

Here are some useful links on finding information on the CS144 alternator. Exploded View Diagram CS144 Reassembly Instructions CS 130 Service Manual Yes CS130 is a different alternator, but it uses the same regulator as the CS144. For wiring it into a vehicle, the information is applicable.

Newzed, How did you find the which years had which synchro's? I have an 87 transmission, and would like to know if it has the double cone synchro. I've downloaded the 87 and 88 FSM's and in the 88 I seen referenced in the exploded view diagram "2nd inner baulk ring" and "2nd outer baulk ring" Is this what makes it a dual cone synchro box? Am I reading it correctly in that only 2nd gear has a double cone synchro on it? Also I've split the case on the 1987 and it had the wider 20mm gears vs the 17mm wide gears on a 280zx transmission. Thanks in advance for any insight.

Colin, I've run my 240z with the original 4 spd, early 5spd (79), late 5spd (83), and will be making the jump to a FS5w71C box (87 300zx) soon. I've also run the original 240z flywheel, 280zx flywheel as well as a Fidanza flywheel / act clutch. The transmissions make no difference. The only thing that makes a difference in terms of compatibility is the pressure plate and clutch collar. 240z, 260z and 280zx had different height pressure plates and thus different length throwout bearing collars. If you want a 240mm clutch, you must get the 240mm flywheel, pressure plate and clutch disk. If in doubt concerning the throwout bearing collar, you can 1. measure the distance from the bellhousing mating surface and the throwout bearing when fully disengaged. 2. measure the distance from the engine to transmission mating surface and the forks (springs) on the pressure plate. You can make these measurements using a straight edge and a vernier caliper or even a ruler. If the 1st measurement is longer than the 2nd by more than 5mm then you are using the 240z collar instead of the longer 280zx collar. When it's right and the engine/transmission is installed there should be a little play (about 2mm) in the clutch fork. So to answer your question: yes you can use your existing combo. Here is a good reference i've found on the topic.