rejracer

I was able to buy some parts at racetep.com.

Those are the shims I am thinking of. I don't know what lash pads you will need, that depends on the wipe pattern you end up with on the rocker arms. Because you are only taking off .020, I would install the shims and then check the wipe pattern.

Using the rope is the same concept as a slide hammer. Chain works better, aka poor mans slide hammer. Secure one end of the chain to the item to be pulled. Wrap the other end around a large heavy bar ( have a 3ft section of 1.5" rebar) and swing away. When you get to the "end of the chain" it should snap whatever is on the other side free. Use proper protective gear, the chain method is not near as safe as a slide hammer.

I've never had a difficult time pulling them. I've always used the axle as a slide hammer approach.

You will need to buy the correct cam tower shims. I would not use the head gasket thickness to compensate for shaving the head. Ideal chamber setup is more important that the trouble you will go through getting the cam towers shimmed and the right thickness lash pads.

Check out a product called Auto-RX I've used it on 3 vehicles so far, and I've been happy with it. I've noticed an improvement in compression over a period of 5000 miles. This stuff will only make a difference if the rings are gummed up, it's not a miracle additive. From what I've read about it, it's designed to slowly clean the rings over a period of 2 oil changes, it's not really geared for cleaning up tarnish as some oil system cleaners are.

What year? Not all 240z consoles are the same. there was a change between 69 (mechanical throttle lift had 2 levers on console) 70-71 1 lever on console 72. redesign. 73 not sure if its the same as 72 or not. I don't have one for sale, but thought the info might help.

1. If you are using an N42 (open chamber) use dished pistons to lower the compression to stock levels. N42's on flatops will detonate. 2. L24 rods will not work with stock L28 pistons. You can use L24 rods with stock or stroker cranks assuming you can find the right piston. Suggestion: If this is a mild street engine I suggest you get a P79 or P90 head and use stock flat tops on stock rods. If you just want a high compression engine on the street you need a closed chamber head, and with a 22 to 25 thousands piston to head clearance. An MN47 on a stock F54 block will get you in the neighborhood of 10:1. These heads are prone to detonation, so the necessary mods need to be made to support it properly. If your not willing to spend the hours upon hours to get yourself up to speed, I suggest you pick an engine from a particular year (block head combo) and build that. In my opinion the stock 81-83 P79/F54 combo is the best of the stock engines. On a limited budget, or limited knowledge scenario it's wise to start with a known engine and mod it with known and proven mods to avoid serious mistakes. An example of that would be buying flatops and running them under a stock N42. Hope that helps.

Yes N47 is an open chambered head. I am running a N42/N42 combo, it's running great at 20* static for a total of 36*.

Thanks Leon. So in summary High temps + slightly lean (excess of Nitrogen and Oxygen) = NOx. There are 3 possible ways to fix the NOx issue: 1. Lower the compression ratio to lower combustion temps 2. Water injection could take the combustion temps down, eliminating 1 factor in the forming of NOx. 3. Modify the engine to consistently run at 19:1 or leaner which would lower combustion temps.

It's a plug and play operation. Download the S130 manuals off of xenons130 and study up. You will need the analog cluster harness to put the analog cluster in. Both only read up to 85mph or so. You can do the digital dash mod and trick it into reading up to 140mph. I did this on my old 280zx. EFI (NA) harnesses are completely different than ECCS (turbo) harnesses. They plug into the same place on the main harness. Air flow meter mounts are a bit different on the chassis, Turbo model has provisions for mounting the EGR vacuum modulator. Turbo models had a vacuum pump on the right fenderwell to provide vacuum to the hvac system while under boost. Cant remember any other differences.

Zentech, I'm looking for a cheap used shaft. In the 60$ range. Someone was selling a used shaft for 120.00. I can have one shortened and new joints put in for about that same amount. Let me know if you can do. Thank you, Robert

I am using the maxima bracket with the 280zx calipers. The left and right side swapped with stainless brake lines, I had to do this to solve the same problem. I had to make new brackets that hold the brake line to the body as well as new steel brake lines from the T junction to the brackets.

I drill a hole throught the bolt then put either penetrating oil or muratic acid in the hole (iron/steel parts only), and let it work on the rust for a few days. I can usually get them out fairly easy once the chemicals have worked. also I use snap on screw extractors. The cheap ones (squarish design) are junk imo. I also have a reverse pitch drill bit. When removing I quickly heat the bolt until it glows, when it's still hot insert the cold ez out and slowly tap the tip of the tool as I'm turning it out. It may require several cycles to get it out. The temp of the bolt in relation to the housing and the tool is important.

I measured the bellhousings today and they are the same length, this to me means the transmissions are the same, aside from the bell housing bolt pattern. I was not certain of all the differences myself.

Looking for an early series 1 driveshaft. This came out of early Z's before the relocated the differential back to line up the axles with the wheels. Thank you, Robert

It's good to see this thing finally started up and now electrical gremlins fixed. Now what? Exhaust, a few leaks, and tidy up some wiring and it's on the road?

Glad to see it run!

Since you are running that much power you may as well go with Just to get it on the road use the N/A halfshafts. To build it so it will handle the power, get the right companion flanges to fit the stronger 280z axles. Modern Motorsports sells them, or you can find the adapter pattern and have a set made, or make a set for yourself if you have the skills, tools and time. My Modern motorsports weld on adapters were not welded on centered. I'm thinking of RMA'ing them back to them if I can.

There is nothing wrong with running an engine that lean so long as the components can handle the added temps. NOx is caused by high combustion temps. I think (but have never tried) water injection would lower the combustion temps, and thus lowering NOx.

I was initially running swepco, when during some aggressive driving I tore up the 3rd gear synchro. 3rd synchro was always weak from that point on. I switched to GL-4 and it did the same thing. I drove the transmission like that for about 7 years. After reading about the synchromesh I tried it and the 3rd gear grind went away. I used the Penzoil variant of Synchromesh, I believe they are all the same. Synchromesh is a thinner fluid for sure. I did notice a bit more bearing noise while in neutral, but no noticeable noise increase when driving. I don't know if this is a good fluid to use long term in these transmissions or not, so I'm experimenting with it. Since I put the fluid in ~ 2 years ago I've put on ~ 5000 miles. I did do one road trip which was about 400 miles one way, I was a bit concerned being it's not the factory fill. Lots of freeway driving along I5 which translates to cruise speed of 75 to 80mph for the majority of the trip. I can attest to the fact that this fluid shifts much better than GL-4 fluids. I've never run swepco back to back with Synchromesh, but I remember swepco being very good as well.

I have never heard of the FC5W71C are you talking about an automatic? If so, then no it's very different. Summary of 300zx transmissions, gearing info omitted: FS5W71C - 84-89 NA Fs5r90a - 85-86 Turbo (T5) Fs5r30A - 87-89 Turbo and 90-96 all. I have a FS5W71C from a 1987 300zx. It has the wider 20mm gears, but when I had it open I did not check for the double cone synchro on 2nd and 3rd. It did have a synchronized reverse. Based on that, I think it's the same, regardless for my application, I know I can get it to work as I am going to fab up new mounts for the transmission. When I bought the transmission I compared it to a 280zx transmission and found it would work based on what I was planning on doing.

I've seen a few websites stating they used L28ET turbo, but the trick (and the power) in a diesel is how large the pump is. Getting enough air in the engine is the easy part. You might try checking out the turbo diesel truck forums, as their engines will have more in common conceptually than most other L series engines. I don't know how easy it would be to upgrade or retrofit a new pump in the L28D. I've never played too much with diesels, but how I would approach it is to determine the manufacturer of the pump and what other vehicles the pump was used on. From there hit local shops and forums with this info to learn what can be done with the existing pump. L28D turbo

Why would you not just trade someone a set of 240z axles. I have a set I'll trade you. PM me if interested.

I don't think the 280zx axles are the right length, but I do know that the 280zxt companion flanges are the same splines as the 240z axles. I recall there being the binding issue using the stock zxt companion flanges and R200, but i've not done any measurements myself to verify.