steveosupremeo

flexible conduit?? dunno about the heat range though..

sounds nice, love the turbo spool....love the tag.

guess i put my foot in my mouth...i meant the size of the pipes should be big enough for any size z motor, maybe too big for some, could still be wrong but they are 42.5mm in diameter, the MSA 6-2 header i have is 39mm in diameter. i don't know what the flow rate increase in that is through the pipe for 3.5mm (little over an 1/8")...but the pipes do tilt downward at a slight angle, and would need a very quick 10-15 minutes of cleanup with a dremel to correct because it is a tiny lip that could be blended to the exact angle of the pipe. i think my favorite part is the thick flange and if nothing else would make for a great start on a custom turbo header. as far as intake routing, this header came off of a car with triple dcoe webers and i had the webers and header off in a half hour and thats taking time for a cold beer. they didn't interfere with that setup, can't make a comment or make speculation on FI manifolds but manifolds with webbing would, as always, be more difficult to work with. Datsun Spirit calls it Takoashi, or "Octopus Foot". His hand built header is much nicer though and is on his orange car.

http://image.blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/imgs/7/6/76318d04.jpg ths is just like the header I have, should be good for any size z motor. mine came on my fairlady. i've thought of getting it jet hot coated one day, who knows. very thick 5/8 flange and thick tubes.

why not just get some new rings for the pistons you have?? stock 75-80 piston rings. makes sense.

i'm running the sx swap and love it! the first 4 gears are very close to a z 5 speed "A" box and 5th is better for cruising, especially with my 3.90 diff. i used the z countershaft bearing and although the sx bearing is bigger and can therefore handle more torque, i've never had a z tranny apart to find the front counter bearing gone. on all of mine its been one of the center main or counter support bearings. watch out for broken shift forks from kids power shifting the sx trannies, my first one had a shattered 1-2 and a crack 5-R. they are made of cast aluminum. i have some spares for mine now. the second one i took apart already had 2 of the forks replaced.

on the datsun spirit website he mentions its a popular mod in racing in japan to mill about 6mm off of the back of the crank and I believe space the starter forward, dunno about clutch alignement and such, it wasn't discussed, but it was supposed to help with stock crank probs.

there was a thread recently that zcarnut from huntsville posted a link to those. i don't know if thats the one he uses or not but it sounds awesome because you can use more common L28 rods vs custom or L24 9mm.

not to mention those beautiful tiny little cracks between the valve seats like both of my N42s have. i'm sure its an easy fix once the seats are out. but i can see it on cyl. 5 and 6 in the pic.

i got one off of ebay from australia called Turbo Tech. It works awesome! Not one spike whatsoever yet! cost about $30 shipped. actually has a really tiny hole drilled in the side to further prevent spikes.

about a year and a half ago i posted this idea on zcar.com. had lots of guys chime in, tonyd, dan baldwin, norm, and several others. the point some people made was that stock cast pistons would probably encounter problems before the peak rpm capabilities would be reached. so if you need custom pistons made, might as well go ahead and have them made for a zero deck height. also with the lower swept volumn a MN47 head would be a good choice. probably high 10s CR. also that there wasn't a very big difference in top rpm between that and the good ole 2.8 motor. the L20A crank, to which i have one and no use for, lol, would be a better candidate for high revving fun. my idea came for a high rpm autox motor, before i ever autox'd. after i had a few times i realized the 2.8 was plenty fun and if anything a compression bump would do the trick.

nice stuff! thats how i did my fuel pressure regulator! makes for an easy mount, lol

yeah, thats what a lot of my friends have done on their KA-T 240sx's. its also cheaper if you can weld. the plug I speak of is around $12.

22x1.5 go to oreilly auto parts or somewhere of the like, look in the oil drain plug section and there is a plug that size with a 3/8 square drive inverted to tighten/loosen. but it should say 22x1.5 on the pack.

So are you saying the .48 AR housing is ok for a 2.8 turbo motor? I ask because I was looking at one and thinking it might be kinda cool for autoX. Just figured it would eat into my HP.

Looks great man! I also have that intercooler, got it off of a first gen RX7 though, not an FC. haven't mounted it yet, probably in front of the IC but a bit lower, will only block the lowest inch of the IC more than likely.

if you look in the latest issue of project car, they talk about the tomei header they use on an SR20 and its not equal length, saying its only needed in maximum effort race motors. it does however divide the pulses for adjacently firing cylinders. and its SS. I'm down with closer to stock location so that more people could just "drop it in". as close to stock thickness on the flange as they can make as well. or if not maybe weld tabs to meet the thickness of the intake manifold for the washers.

mine is closer to 30 psi at idle.

haha. the price is right at AZC but u could try a used set and see if a machine shop can get the best 6 out of the 12.

got a new boost guage on mine, i was actually boosting 13 psi on a stock regulator, but i wouldn't do more without a wideband. shouldn't have done any without a WB!

can you feel the marks with your fingernail? if so i'd polish it with some fine grit sandpaper.

yes 225/55 would be ideal but i think only michelin makes that tire and in only one style. there are quite a few manufacturers that make a 225/50 on the other hand.

well then, never thought about the other 9 actually going deeper but since so many people have done this its obviously not a problem.

-all 5 cam towers have one head bolt that runs through them and two cam tower bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! go pop your valve cover and look for yourself. but as I stated earlier, its not enough to be an issue but they are there. thats why you have 9 short head bolts and 5 long head bolts!

That would also be my pic for a manifold as well. I'm also interested, I'd prefer T3 flange but if needed i could get a different one put on if the one provided wasn't to my needs. the one in the pic looks like a T4. Also note how tubes for cylinders 1 & 2 are out of the way for pretty much any compressor housing!