Phantom

David, Maybe this is heresy but why not put the proportioning valve in the front brake line? I understand your problem as I'm running 12.2" vented Willwood superlights in the front and the same 240SX set-up in the rear - with similar results. Bill

Try this thread here on the Hybridz website: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=881589

If you compare the performance specifications between a 280Z motor and a late 280ZX motor you'll see that the HP and torque ratings are pretty close - EXCEPT - the torque curve on the one with the P79 head comes on around 3,000 RPM vs the N2 head engine which comes on around 4,400 RPM. If you are thinking about putting a new cam in then either head will work for you. If you're planning on keeping the stock cam that comes with the head then I'd recommend the P79.

Ford seems to think it will probably be sufficient but you may want to look at this website: http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=8

I had mine break at the handle. Went to a salvage yard and pulled the entire assembly off another car.

I've seen it go both ways. It boils down to the integrity and personal values of the individual. I think David has demonstrated the highest of both. Other folks I've dealt with on this forum have not. It's nice to find someone that sets the gold standard.

YakimaZ, PM me dude. I live in Yakima. I have two Z's and one is a '77 that I've been working on for 17 years. We can go through your FSm and the one for my '77 and find what we need to find to accomplish your goal. Bill Davis

Got laid off back in September so started into a Automotive Technology program at the local junior college. I'm about half-way through my second quarter now and I must say I have a newly founded respect for the profession. It is absolutely staggering the amount of information an auto tech must know to do the job properly. So far I have learned that my ignorance of automobiles is profound and I've been wrenching on cars for over 40 years! This quarter covers basic electrical. You guys won't believe how much there is to learn just about batteries. I have always been intimidated by the electrical side but after 4 weeks I'm actually beginning to enjoy it. It's amazing how much easier it gets once you learn how to use a multimeter. Anyway, it's been quite an experience so far. It's a two-year program that culminates in an AA degree. In the meantime, however, I'm continuing to look for a job so I may not be able to complete it.

Posted yesterday with a need for a hard-to-find part and had a PM within an hour from David. Today he sent a photo of the part to confirm it was correct and then called to verify and said he'd put it in the mail to me ASAP - what a man!! Thanks David!!!!

Looking for the outside door handle and the inner pieces that connect with the inside door handle assembly - drivers side, '77 280Z Please contact me via email if you have one available. Bill Davis

My 1993 300ZX has finally started having a few issues at 126k miles. One of my fuel injectors has died so I'm going to go in and do them all while it's all apart. While I'm at it I'd like to do something about the cracked connector boots. Does someone know a source for replacement boots or a way to reapir them. My local Nissan dealer only sells a full engine harness - no separate boots. I also didn't see anything on the Motorsport Auto site. Thanks for your help.

Mayolives - After re-reading your first post there is another possibility here. Your turbo oil seal may be leaking slightly. If so, it would pull small amounts of oil on decel that, with the high temperatures at that location would cause the oil to burn a whitish color rather than blue. You are correct in assuming that bad valve guides or seals would result in a puff of smoke at start-up. That is considered a primary sympton of that problem. You can go in through the top of the head to check that but, if you're not blowing a puff of smoke at start-up, I wouldn't bother. I can't argue your logic on the water loss and compression pressures vs vacuum on decel but I do know that most professional mechanics will point to a water leak of some kind if you have white smoke on decelleration. I remember one of my habits when I was running an L28 - if it was doing something strange - but nothing that seemed serious I would just watch it until in finaly got bad enought to identify itself. It's a tough motor but it can be a pretty frustrating one periodically.

Mayolives - a compression test WILL NOT tell you if you have worn valve guides or seals because your valves are closed and sealing the compression chamber from them. A compression test will only tell you if you have bad rings, valves or possibly a badly blown head gasket. Then you need to do as leak down test to see which one it is. Back to the original statement - you said white smoke? back smoke=fuel gray smoke=oil white smoke=water White smoke on decel would indicate a leaking head gasket or a crack in your block between the piston wall and water jacket. Better hope it's the former.

Jefer949 is correct. The light either indicates the ebrake handle is up a bit (on) or that there is an imbalance in the braking system. This could be due to a leak or air in the brake lines. Is your pedal initially mushy and then pumps up? What wires did you disconnect? Did you disconnect the ones at the ebrake or on the balance valve under the master cylinder? I believe the ones under the master cylinder was what he meant.

I've driven two different 1977 280Z's for the past 32 years and they both were serious about keeping my shoulders and uper arms in tone. YOu just don't turn the wheel easily unless the tires are rolling. I doubt it's a steering problem. Confirm that your tires are properly inflated and then just know that is what you wil be dealing with. You'll note that several guys in this forum have solved that issue by adapting power steering systems from other cars.

By your later photo's/descriptions it's obvious this is a 280Z motor that maybe had the cooling fan added later. When you are cleaning up the thermotine and engine temperature sensors at the thermostat housing you have several steps. FYI - the single wire sensor is the one for your temperature gauge in the dash. One of the two-wire sensors is the engine temperature sensor for the ECU which is used to modulate fuel injector pulse The other two-wire is your thermotine sensor which tells the ECU to fire injector #7 on your intake manifold when the car is cold. NOTE: you have to clean the sensors, clean the male and female connectors at the sensors, and coat them with dielectric grease AND - here's the good one - follow the wiring from the sensors toward the main harness about 16-18" where you will see/feel a lump under the insulation. Strip the insulation away at this point and you will find the aluminum bullet connectors where the leads from the sensors plug into the harness. Even though these are fully wrapped they will corrode over 30 years - causing you to run very rich. Scrape these clean, coat with dielectric grease, reconnect ,and rewrap with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.

Truck intake for the 5.3 won't fit under hood but I believe the LS1 intake will fit on the 5.3. Need to search here a bit more as the swap has been done. 5.3 isn't an LS1 but it's a really nice motor.

I figured the mattress and box springs just meant you were moving in with the car! You'll love it. I know how you feel as I went through a similar deal with the first 15 years with my car. When we moved two years ago we bought a place that has a big barn. It has a 3-car garage on the front for all the normal garage stuff. A single car garage we turned into a storage shed and an RV garage I keep all my yard equipment in on the end and then on the backside is the two-car garage that is insulated, has a propane gas heater with a 250 gallon tank and a sink. My wife, what a sweetheart, when we got our Direct TV had a converter and a 27" TV put into the garage for me to use when I'm out there.

Datsun40146 - I saw that done on a 1966 Mercedes 280SL that had been Hybrid-ized with an LS1/T56. He had filled in the original lettering and it said "Mercedes" on the covers. He also had them painted a custom silver color. The guy admitted that he had $100K in the car while I was talking with him. It was as close to perfect throughout of any car I have seen.

Ricers - a younger generation of the hot-rodders that came on the scene in the 1950's. Like them they have a desire to customize their vehicle so it is a reflection of their tastes, personality, and abilities. Also, like them, they are misunderstood and criticized by the older generation.

Nope - late Model 944's had 3.0 4-bangers. Some were turbocharged.

Still remember when I first drove a new Chevette - couldn't wait to get back to my old Pinto. It impressed me as being one step above a Yugo. At least you got one that is well preserved and could be a decent platform for an upgrade.

The brake light either tells you that you're low on fluid, there is significant imbalance in the system (like a huge amount of air in the lines or a seriously leaking wheel cylinder), or that the e-brake is engaged.

Yup, same kit I put on my '77 back in '97 right after it came out. The front spoiler has taken a beating from crap on the road - traffic cone, pallet, etc. but is still hanging in there. I'd been looking for 5 years at that point for a kit to freshen up the look of the S30 and still love what it did for it. Get some paint on that puppy and you'll have to keep replacing shirt buttons you'll be so proud and get so many looks & compliments.

I specifically remember one guy on this site that did it and wrote a "how to" manual that he was selling for like $25. Need to do that search.