jt1

Congratulations Jon! First startup is always a big day. jt

The spinwerkes pro6's had true centers. You spec'd the diameter along with the other dimensions.

What's a centering adapter?

Paint and interior look real nice. Underhood is just OK IMO. It will be interesting to see where it winds up. jt

Welcome to the crack pipe. Car looks nice. jt

Try pressurizing the cooling system with air and see if you can find the leak. It sounds like the intake could be warped, or it may have had some milling done in the past. Were the head dowels in place on the block? jt

It depends on your ride height and camber. On my white track car, I used to run 245/45/16 on 16x8 rims, with 5" backspace and coilovers. Hoosiers would touch slightly on the rear, V700's wouldn't touch at all. 5" front 5.5" rear to the flats, 2.5 deg camber. Wheel width was inside to inside. jt

Search. Coffey being a dick has been discussed before. More power to him, IMO. john

What's the diameter of the center hole in the wheels?

Wow. That's a fantastic car to own. Be sure and keep us updated.

It will be interesting to see that with the rack and damper mounted. jt

I didn't know that. What did they change? Oh yeah, I'd love to go back if we ever work it out. If you've got a bit of garage engineer/tinkerer in you, it's like crack. jt

Just to confirm, the gnose we tested in the tunnel was a repro, the lower valence was not sealed back to the radiator support, it didn't have a air dam or spoiler, and had no headlight covers. Not a full test of the gnose, but it was all we had at the time. jt

I agree, take the starter off and try to find a auto electric repair shop that rebuilds their own starters, and have them test it. Around here, the rebuilt stuff you get from the big chain auto parts are very hit and miss.

Is the starter spinning? If so, you need to shim it down from the block some, pretty much trial and error. Start with 0.020 and go up. If it's not spinning, you need to rebuild or replace the starter. jt

Good move. I think that would have been a vibration nightmare waiting to happen.

Cool project. Glad to see you got it to the track! jt

I don't have any experience with the ACE, but in general it seems there should be something to register and center the flywheel, like a hub or lip. I don't think the bolts alone should do that unless there's a special shouldered bolt. I would talk to ace some more, I bet you end up with some problems as is.

Beautiful work. Please keep us updated as it progresses. jt

Hello old guy. Hope you're doing well. jt

i like it so far. Is there a radiator in there anywhere or is this a quarter only build? jt

Good to hear from you Bob. Welcome back to NC. john

It doesn't matter if the caliper is perfectly centered if the pads drop in OK. I would tighten everything up and see where it works out, then make a decision. You can always grind the pads a bit if you don't want to shim anything. For a while I had a set of front wheels brgs that required grinding the inner pad. PITA but worked fine.

Tolerance stacking in the wheel bearings, strut, rotor, hat, and stub axle can cause the calipers to be a bit off center. Usually a spacer isn't a big deal. jt

Without knowing more about it, some very general guesses are about it. Look it over good and make sure you don't have any unconnected hoses or ports. A vacuum leak will give you fits. Some where around 10 or 12 degrees initial timing will be in the ballpark, maybe 34 total. It should crank without dragging when it's good and hot, and not ping at all. Set that with the vacuum advance unhooked if it's there. 3.5 turns out seems like a lot, but it's been a while since I messed with an eddie. There used to be a good tuning guide on their site. SBC's are generally pretty forgiving. Tinker with it and see what it likes. jt