ToplessZ

lol a partner in crime. If you have trouble finding another set assuming these work I know where to get a set for 65 shipped. A good machine shop may know of an alternate bearing. I really dont know where to start looking for one though sounds like a big job. Would be nice to not have to cut the crank though.

wow not to mention the engine and motor are being rebuilt all at once!!!

hmm according to this link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7922456956&category=33623 The 3sgte big end width is 1.055 or 26.797mm Meaning they are close so they may not need to be resized at all. Just would like to reiterate what I posted in the stroker thread that the 3sgte have a crank journal size of 1.889 which is also very close to the L series journal only a small amount of crank would have to be removed insuring that the crank retains in structural integrity.

Well I have a set of mr2 3sgte rods in front of me and another set on the way 95 dollars total for both sets. They seem to be pretty thick. I heard they are very strong rods and looking at them I can tell no different. If I could find my stupid micrometer I could measure them. They look big enough by eyeballing but we know how far that will get us. I would like to compare weights one them though. I plan to have them polished and race prepped if they will work for me. They are almost 138mm in length so that should provide a much better r/s with the ld28 stroker combo. They are also bushed for floating pistons stock so these should be good for my ross pistons unless I find out of some stockers that will work. That would be even better.

Hmm I think I like the first one better. Too many vents and too many dots in your lights. No such thing as led headlights. Kinda looks like the front of the car is curved to the right? Other then that I like the airdam

aww common somene has to have one laying around. I dont really need the weight just the width. Weights between the different sizes would be a cool piece of info though for everyone's future reference. Thanks guys

Ok I need to know the big end width of the l6 rods. A couple of other things though does anyone know the stock weight of a 133mm datsun rod with the 9mm bolts. Also curious on rods with advertised weights does that always include the weight of the rod bolts and or bearings? Sorry if these are dumb questions couldn't find the answers in my datsun books. Thanks Jared

http://www.hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35904 There ya go let me know how it goes as I need to order some soon. Im doing a stroker with toyoto rods

well looks like euro plates on the above cars to me, the garage looks euro as well.

Damnit I envy you. Ive been dying to go to Europe for the past couple years. I would like to go for an extended stay but I have yet to find the means to get myself there. I really want to go over find a job and stay for a couple of years before I get too old to do this kind of thing. Take lots of pics bro and if you have room in a suitcase let me know.

hmm I really like the flares on the above car. Keep up the awesome picture flow Im loving this

what happened to the vette rear?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33590&item=7920622335&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW I dont think you will be able to get close to that price. He even offers free shipping Dont bother with the drums go with 240sx calipers in the rear and 4x4 in front with 800-1000 you should be able to do all of the above especially if you buy used calipers from ebay or jy shop around. Good luck

Could mean stage five....or just another version of super duper Lol

Speaking of sports cars turned wagon. I was at the goodguys show a little while back ans saw a 93+ camero witha geo storm rear grafted in the same manner as above z to make a wagon ick. However one of the new hot rod mags has a picture of a vette wagon and it is damn sexy first gen vette nose but cant recal what year wagon. I think the zwagon has potential with zg's 18s and a completly different design for the rear. Would also look better with the msa II airdam. It would make the front a little more square to match the rear. Some Please photoshop!!! And RacerX post away I love looking at your old pics

You arent going to be able to tune 450cc injectors with the stock ecu. If your looking for extra fuel on a budget get an hks aic they are one of the best and can be had for 200 bucks on ebay. Otherwise add 1000 for fuel management. Id say rent a hoist and install it yourself or see if there is a board memeber close to help a little. Also I think you can get an rb 25 for not much more then the sr20 and that would definatly be more bang for the buck

Thanks Daw. Im going to give the 3sgte rods a shot. They are really strong which is my main concern. They are 137.9982 in length. I dont have a measurement for rod cap width but they look pretty wide. I cant find that measurement anywhere. Im getting a set really cheap so I can measure them before I buy the second cheap set I have lined up. They look like they will work great. They are also already bushed for full floating pistons stock. The con rod journal size is just slightly under the datsun I believe 1.899X The honda rods required a 1.771 journal which seems to compramise strength to me. I have been reading on the mr2 board that these rods are good to over 500 hp if prepped and arp studded and thats in a 4cyl Id say they will be stronger then the 133mm datsun 240z rods. Ill have a picture shortly.

I too would like to find a way to use a flush mount seal. Im sure it can be done but I would like to see some pics and hear some input. I think it would be slick to ditch the bulky seals with trim and if you were blacking everything out it would mean less to have coated.

Well I dont have a price cap yet but Im hoping to not spend a ton. Im planning to run a refreshed p90 since I have two of them the second one will have some money socked into it and added as a stage two upgrade. I need to verify but it appears that custom pistons through summit racing can be had for just under 500 dollars made by ross I believe. Im going to have 220 in my crank 500 in comlete zxt that engine is coming from but sold some parts and traded wheels for 240 dash so the engine and donar car we could pretty much consider free. Im thinking 1500 in machine work turning and balencing crank. Over bore and hone the block etc it may raise above that cost... may knife edge the crank but not sure yet. another 300 for assembly 200 on fresh valve job and viton seals. Not sure if Im doing anything else to the head yet beside a mild casting cleanup. Im planning on running a t61 turbo or similar between 5 and 700 for that I still need to get a damper probably about 400 for the one Im looking at but thats not verified. It depends what you want to include in the engine cost. Engine management custom intake, DP etc. The list goes forever. Im going to try to do it for about 4000 but its going to be close. Going to have about 200 in my beefy forged arp studded toyota 3sgte rods. Im sure Im leaving out things here but thats a start. I plan on using this as a light duty street car and weekend drag use. Mostly drag but I plan on having the suspension set up nicely for the occasional road course. Ahh very disorganized post. I apologize. What hp do I plan to get out of this.....Hmmm As much as possible. Reason for the longer rod and stroke. Little better on revs and a little better on reliability (detonation resistance). Might as well dare to be different

Well I just got the microtech with the hand controller unit for 430 dollars brand new. I was actually planning on using the 82 turbo distributer. I could use the factory computer just to run the ignition. I do like msd's digital programmable ignitions but they are a little pricey. Thats way down the road now Im trying to find a set of stock 3sgte rods somewhere out there. And when I get those and get the calculations done I will see if there are any off the shelf usable pistons or if not get a set made. It will be awhile before I can afford the ignition upgrade after getting the engine work performed. For now Im just running a stock turbo setup so I can have something that runs.

Thats really good. Tig I assume? As long as it has really good penetration that is the best Ive seen. Curious what the penny is for though... size comparison?

makes me wish my rusted turbo donor car was salvagable. I like those flares alot. Still think a bigger vent of some sort should be in the back. Coming along nicey though. Good luck

makes me wish my rusted turbo donor car was salvagable. I like those flares alot. Still think a bigger vent of some sort should be in the back. Coming along nicey though. Good luck

No I just have the microtech mt-4 It was a deal that I could not pass on. Ooks to be a very good unit with alot of adjustability etc. Anyhow I may not use the msd btm. I may use something else If I find a better option. I already have a 6al so the msd muti function ignition controller may be a good option. Wouldn't mind hearing some mre input here though as there may be better options out there.

Bast. If you ever get to the point where you need the aic units will have only become more reasonable. I just saw a blitz unit for 80 bucks on the bay. Very simple to hook up and adjust. Just for future reference. I would just enjoy the car with the condition you can afford. When the right time comes and you can afford it. Then buy the next upgrade. There is never a rush when you are at the point with the car that you are. Besides you should always have a little cash set aside for maintenence and small fixes when they occur. If you have spent that money on upgrades then you have down time. Just a thought.