capt_furious

Have a close look at the new exhaust itself and try to determine if it's hitting anything. If it's really close to any sheet metal or suspension components, vibration at idle could be bouncing it off of something. When you say 'extremely loud', is it a metallic clank knock, like a pipe against a hard surface, or an internal 'clonk' from within the engine itself? Is it synced with the engine ignition?

Would it even be possible for the car to run with a slipped timing chain? I would think it would die without stumbling. I desperately need the car this weekend and don't want to throw yet another couple thousand into it(yeah, I'm getting raped by my mechanic, but with no friends nearby and no garage or driveway to work in, you do what you have to) An MS ECU isn't going to do a carbed car much good. I can't afford an EFI conversion...I'm running on empty money wise.

Ah, yes. The elusive '74 440ZX 2+2! What a tool.

I just threw the corner part in there, doesn't seem to make a difference. It ran like crap in a straight line. Those ECUs have doubled in price since the last time I had one die.

I've had this happen a few times this month. Car's running fine, no issues, suddenly stumbles to a halt and flat out DIES. Starter fluid down the bores, no go. Pull the coil wire, ground to the chassis, hot spark. Last night I was driving home, car was running great...turned a corner, got a slight misfire, kept running fine...got down the road about 1/4 mile, and it puked its guts...started running like garbage, misfiring all over the place. I pulled into a parking lot to troubleshoot it, and it idled fine, no issues, but as soon as gave it even a little throttle, it would miss like mad, getting one or two good hits, freewheeling, another hit or two, backfire out the pipe, etc. It finally died and wouldn't restart. As I said, I verified that it's getting the critical three - gas, air, spark - and nothing happens. When it died, I was getting sufficient fuel pressure at the gauge I put in the line just before the carbs, so I'm positive the pump is all right. At this point I'm betting the ignition module is out of sync. That's the only explanation I can come up with. It's been running without issues for a long time until this month. The distributor is on tight, the cap and rotor look good. Details on my setup: L28, N42 block & head, '70 round tops, electric pump at the tank, filter before the pump and at the block, fuel visible in the filter at the block, Chrysler ECU setup.

If the question had been phrased differently, perhaps the thread wouldn't have turned sour. 'Do I still need a heat shield if the headers have been Jet Hot coated? The coating seems to significantly reduce heat radiation." My response would have been that every little bit of heat kept away from the intake side helps. Oh, well. Tact is a lost art.

There is actually a precedent for this sort of vent placement, as evidenced by these photos which Alan posted in the 'Early '70s Japanese race car aero' thread. I'm really tempted to put some vents like this in my hood, but that means cutting and bending sheet metal for which I don't have the resources to do properly, nor are there schematics readily available for the placement of the vents. Also to consider is that it's a big gaping hole straight into the engine bay with no protection from elements or vandals. I'm quite enamored of this particular car, but there's not much information available on it.

The body work is nice, I really like the airdam and the way it flows into the flares. The side skirts work with the original body lines without looking tacked on, and the rear valence works equally well, especially since it kept the bumper. Neat taillights...makes me wonder what they were sourced from. Honestly, though, the wheels are hideous. They look like something that you'd see on an SUV in a bad neighborhood.

And then there's the Australian E49 Charger R/T... Inline six, triple sidedrafts, fastback, blunt nose, long hood, short rear deck, bobbed tail. Really wish the Chrysler A-bodies had been developed to this standard stateside. I had a chance to trade my '72 Fury for one of the lesser models of these and kick myself to this day for not pulling the trigger on it.

Interesting! The lower half should cover the front of the wheels if you're making your own, however. Stop by the windtunnel section when you get a chance and check out all of the findings with regard to front end aero. I'm getting a distinct Jensen Healey Interceptor / Celica fastback vibe from it. Not sure if the end result is going to look right, but as long as it can be reversed, go for it!

Ah, ah! CAPTAIN...I didn't go to Furious Officer Candidate School to be called Mister, thank you very much.

Nissan's initial early solution to underhood temps was a fiberglass fairing over a large hole smack in the middle of the hood. I can't find any photos, but it was similar in appearance to a cowl hood, with vents at the sides.

Careful how you get my attention / stop me, I've got this screen name for a good reason.

Dig through the windtunnel section before deciding on a spoiler. 6.5" and 30 degrees is essentially the minimum for a street driven Z, and you'll want to combine that with vortex generators and ducting the airdam to the radiator. Basically, you should develop an overall aero package, not just slap a spoiler on there, or you could be doing more harm than good.

Just...spontaneously? Kaboom?

19" x 10"...ridonkulous. Amazing fab on the car.

Check your plugs. I had mine start giving me hell last week, new plugs cleaned it right up. While you're at it, check the wires, cap, rotor, and slop / play in the distributor shaft. Low fuel pressure could also be a culprit. Check your filters.

For 32 / 25k, I'd expect real cadmium plating and not hokey gold junk out of a rattle can... Nice car, VERY nice, but not $25k nice.

Glad I'm not the only one bugged by that. We've seen the images already, no need to have to scroll past them again...

Mine's not exactly hybrid, but it is the white one with a red stripe and an obnoxiously loud exhaust that's all over town.

Nice Goat! I don't have my Furies anymore, they were too hard on my wallet. I'll second the aircraft stripper, I used the stuff to strip my Z for paint prep. Hurts like hell when it makes skin contact, but boy does it do a number on paint. Here's a great resource for wheel restoration.

Yes and no. There are distinctions, depending on the year and engine. Chrysler Corporation engines(Dodge is a marketing brand, not a manufacturer), specifically of the relevant vintage (1970s) had no issues with quality or reliability. They were extremely well-made and engineered, if a bit simplistic by comparison to a M5 engine of recent manufacture. I like the ingenuity of this swap, I just think there's a lot of misinformation being passed around. What Chrysler engines do you refer to as being 'shoddy'?

I guess you decided to join the ranks of other I'76 players and buy a Z, huh? You're in good company: Red 5 [GUN], INT SuiCyco, and of course, yours truly, -HF- Wing' AVA. Looks good. You should get the Panasports back on there. Best bet is to find a company that refinishes wheels professionally.

'Street legal' has less to do with how the car is set up and more to do with what the driver is willing to put up with.

Somebody's got to say it. It's not a Dodge. Would you call a Pontiac a Chevy? And none of the breakdowns either of my Plymouths experienced had anything to do with the powerplant. In fact, I'd say the vaunted German engineering would have more teething problems than a simple Plymouth V8. Flame away.