capt_furious

No difference, but she's been behaving herself for about a month now.

No information anywhere on that site regarding output level or photos of beam pattern / illumination, which is usually the first thing a lighting manufacturer puts in their promotional material.

It's a hell of a bike and a screamin' deal. If I had the money for it and leathers / helmet / MSF classes, I'd be all over it.

Naaaaaaaaaaaaaah.

...that's uncanny!

The 1971 movie Vanishing Point used 5 1970 Dodge Challengers; 4 with 440 Magnums and A833 4-speeds, and one with a 383 Magnum and a 727 Torque Flite. There was once an excellent website that had a copious amount of info on the production of the movie, interviews with cast and crew, then & now photos of shooting locations, and trivia and details regarding the cars themselves. The site is unfortunately long gone. (Never mind, I think I found its remains!) The details I can remember is that the 440 cars were used for the lion's share of the filming, doing the chase and static scenes. The 383 car was used as a chase and camera car, and stunt car - it towed the stand-in Camaro for the final scene via a cable rig. Loftin' reasoning was that if a shift was missed, the cable would go slack. This is a movie with the legendary Carey Loftin as a driver and Max Balchowsky on wrenches. Loftin himself said that the only modification to the cars was extra-heavy duty shocks for the jump over no-name creek. The rest of the cars were stock from Chrysler as provided. I'd trust Carey Loftin's choice, use a manual. That, and you've got less to go wrong from a damage standpoint. No pan to puncture, no coolant lines to break, no coolant tank in the radiator or extra cooler on the front of the car. Pick the right trans and it won't overheat, and you don't have to worry about it slipping. If you really are in a SHTF situation, the adrenaline is going to be a lot more difficult to deal with than if road racing. Driving at 9/10ths will probably be a death sentence when that keyed up. Training is going to be more important than the car. Being able to stay cool and drive 'eyes out' rather than gearjamming and 'balls out' will probably be far more conducive to staying alive. Taking an evasive driving course will probably lend more to surviving a roadborne combat situation than the vehicle will.

Interesting: Ignoring my previous ignition problems which may be solved at this point (I haven't had issues with getting spark since replacing the ballast resistor, ignition module and cleaning up connections), this description sounds very similar to the problem I am having. I checked the damper oil recently and cannot see any oil level while looking down them. DUH. Not only that, but when checking, the thumb nut on the dome was loose! Hello, McFly! Hello!?

I've swapped the fuel filters a number of times in the past year. I just changed out the one in the engine bay and broke open the old one, nothing in it. The is one at the tank before the pump that is fairly new. I'm running a Carter electric fuel pump at the tank on the stock wiring, I believe it is this unit. I had this feeding to the stock mechanical pump, which failed within one day of installing the new electric pump - the gasket between the two halves blew and the pump was spraying fuel all over the engine bay. I disconnected it and I'm now running off of the Carter only. I assumed - perhaps incorrectly - that the pressure was too high for the mechanical pump and that's what blew out the gasket. Maybe it was just time for that pump to go. How do I determine the oil level in the dashpots? One carb piston definitely has more resistance than the other. I can see oil on the 'plunger' when I pull it, but I can't see any oil level by looking down the top of the carb with it out.

Wow.

Nutso...but the only thing I'd really call 'hybrid' about that is the bodywork. It's still pretty much a Ferrari underneath.

Let me handle this point by point here: Condenser: Nothing of the sort anywhere near the coil or ballast resistor. Never removed anything like this, either. There is one on the alternator, but I have no idea what it's for. Stock transistor ignition setup: Never seen anything like this on the car, or evidence of it having been there. It's a very early 260, I'm willing to bet it predates such a setup. Ditch the Chrysler box: Much as I'd like to, I have absolutely no idea where to start with this. The harness has been hacked to pieces by some numbnut several owners ago and there's no telling what's right and what's wrong. If I could find the person responsible, I'd beat them to within an inch of their life for causing me so much grief. The who what now? It's an L28 with L24 SUs. No ECU or O2 sensor to speak of, and a VG30 ECU certainly won't help on an L28, carbed or not. aux has got me thinking I've got fuel delivery issues and it may not even be the ignition at this point, anyway. I'm fine with it running(sort of) in accessory mode if by fixing my suspected fuel issue, the problem is solved. Again, the problem has been resolved down to intermittently stalling when coming off idle too quickly. Roll on the throttle slowly, and it might sputter a bit on accel, but it wont' stall. Restart is instant after a stall. Let it sit for an extended period(usually overnight) after the problem arises and it goes away.

The red & blue wire is stock for the wiring harness. My Haynes manual shows this in the wiring diagram for the '74 260. It's been spliced into - not cut - and a new wire run to the run signal on the box. As for the condenser, where is this located? I know there's a small one on the back of the alternator, not sure what it's for. I've had trouble in the past with coil condensers on other cars, auxilary know about this.

Must be slang or profanity for 'man'. Was there a big flap in the Aussie media over this? Oh, it's an ethnic slur...sheesh, nobody cares that the guy was shot?

It's instant. Only when I stab the throttle and not when I baby it, if I carefully ease onto the throttle and ride the clutch, it'll sputter but it won't stall. And it's not constant, it comes and goes. Once it starts it won't go away for quite a while. I haven't had any trouble for about a week, but last week while driving to Oakland, it started having trouble on the Richmond Bridge and wouldn't stop until I got home late that night(with a good 6 hours in a parking lot in between). Fired it up the next day and drove around with no problems at all. I'm wondering if I need to put in a stronger pump.

I hope this worthless sack of crap steals from the WRONG person and gets taken out of the gene pool. That's infuriating. The sight of your car stripped down like that just makes me sick, I can't imagine how you feel.

I believe this is a standard for newly manufactured cars, not vehicles already sold and in consumer hands. If it indeed mandates testing for all vehicles and there's no exemption for older collector vehicles, many of us will be outright SCREWED. I don't have the funds to convert to EFI, let alone throw on a new exhaust and cats.

That's some pretty impressive control!

Still battling this. I've got it reduced down to stalling when bringing the throttle off of idle. Stab it too fast and it cuts out. Bring the revs up slowly and it'll sputter on acceleration but won't stall. Am I totally off, could this be a fuel problem? It's still completely random, it gave me hell last night and ran fine today.

We really need - NEED - more video of this setup.

The mechanical pump is still on the block, but it's not hooked up. I ran it for about a full minute or so last night. I'm going to try it again tonight and see how long it lasts. If it was just running off of the fuel in the line / bowls, there's a lot of fuel in there!

I was troubleshooting / correcting issues with the Z today and encountered a VERY strange phenomenon: I replaced some hoses and improved some small bits of my fuel system. Part of the troubleshooting was determining if the car cuts out the fuel pump at random intervals, and to correct what I suspected was a small air leak into the hoses at the tank connection(oversized hose on the fitting). I disconnected the electrical connection for the pump so I could test the voltage at the plug. I fired the car up out of curiosity just to see how long it would take to starve. It didn't. Fuel pressure dropped to zero on the inline gauge I've got just upstream of the fuel rail, but the car kept running and would even rev without cutting out. I reconnected the fuel pump and pressure came back up. Wow. So, do SUs actually create suction on the fuel line? I've never heard of a carb creating suction and feeding itself, or a car running with zero fuel pressure, but there you go. I didn't put a load on it or drive it around that way, maybe I should give it a try.

Perfect opportunity to make twice pipes with an X-pipe instead of a collector after the header. Would probably sound absolutely SICK. Someday when I've got a few hundred to blow at an exhaust shop I'll have this done.

Battery posts and chassis ground have been cleaned. There's one negative ground next to the battery (I assume this is the secondary in case the primary cable fails), I unscrewed it and cleaned the bolt and the connectors going to it. Any other negative chassis grounds that I should be aware of and check? Checking with a volt meter this morning, the coil is only getting 11 volts. I assume this is bad. Shouldn't it be getting 14 or so? Run signal to the ignition module is also 11 volts. Could this be a bad voltage regulator? I haven't changed the alternator, I checked voltage while off and it was just over 12v, with the car running I'd get a fairly steady 14v at idle and up to 15v off-idle / rev. edit: also, the guts of my distributor look pretty salty. Is there a quick clean-up I can do without disassembling it, such as spraying in some contact cleaner and a little silicon lube? I'd REALLY appreciate some assistance from somebody local. I'm near Santa Rosa.

The car behaved itself for about two weeks, and then gave me hell yesterday and this morning. I'm changing out the alternator tomorrow. Next act of desperation is the voltage regulator.