Zetsaz

273 on a modern N/A L6? That's awesome!

Do you happen to remember who? I'd love to pm them if I can. Speedhut has the programmable ones that are cheaper than the programmable autometer (at least for the fuel gauge), but they're still much more pricey. Not sure I wanna be dropping that kinda money on a gauge right now haha

Hmmm... I don't know about the intellitronix. I like them, but I was hoping for a mostly stock look. If I can use the Autometer ranges it'll work better for me I think. Plus slightly easier, since I don't have to splice anything to get the ohm range I need.

Thanks for the tips! I was aware of the adjustable ranges, but I don't think anything I've found in my budget is variable range :/ Are the 2-5/8" still a good fit for the center pods or would it be easier to go with the 2 inch with the PVC pipe adapter?

VERY interesting build. I'll definitely be wanting to come check it out when I'm back in town!

Slowly adding to my purchase list google doc. One of my priorities is the fuel gauge. I hope this post is useful to anyone searching around. I've done a lot of digging around the forum and I think this is what I'm going with. I found all the data from other posts, but never in the same place. http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-fuel-level-240e-33-f-sse-pro-comp.html -Stock fuel level gauge in any S30 was 2-5/8" (All center gauges were this size. Tach and speedo are 5") -Stock sending unit ohm range was effectively 0-90 but REVERSED from GM gauges. (E would be F if reading a GM gauge and vice versa) -This is true up until the LS1 sending units/gauges in '99-'02 (perhaps even later, I'm not sure about other LS1 cars) -The LS1 unit is about 250 ohms full and 40 ohm empty (250F-40E) -Standard aftermarket gauges, as far as I've seen only come in 240E-33F, which is close enough for me. Only modification required after putting in the new gauge will be to bend the sending unit to create a mirror image of itself so the readings aren't backwards. Will update this post with pictures of my install either in a couple weeks, or Thanksgiving depending on when I actually visit home. This one of the most important parts to getting my car on the road reliably. EDIT: If any of this information is wrong, please correct me for my own sake and that of anyone who happens to be reading

Update since I got the chance to see it and get more details from the owner: -'83 L28ET, stage II cam, custom fuel rail, 450cc injectors, Garrett T3 turbo, high flow down pipe, upgraded pop off valve, double valve springs, ported head. -BW T5, carbon synchros, B&M short shifter. ... Should I make the guy an offer and let it sit around while I'm away from home, or wait?

Thanks for the offer! I think I might just buy them for myself long term and so I can have them as references down the road. The more I've been thinking about it, the more I'm settling into the idea of either and L28ET or just modifying what I have now. Would be better for me as a first swap. I don't wanna have to mess too much with different mounts and custom harnesses. Messing with MegaSquirt will be plenty fun on the L28 I got a chance to check out that engine in Bellingham that I posted. The guy seemed to know what he was doing. Had a 260 2+2 with and SR20DET swap. Definitely not buying just yet, but the owner said he'd let me know if he had any other offers and could probably hold onto it until I was able to bring the car up to Washington. His own words "it's not going anywhere." I'll be reading up more on the strut/spring combos... still undecided on what to go with.

I have rot on the same spot in my passenger fender that I didn't get a chance to fix before leaving home. Driver side was perfect strangely. I tried fabing my own patch panel, but with the way the bottom side requires extra work to get it to bolt to the rocker I think I'm just gonna give up and send a tabco panel back home and have my dad swap it.It'd be much easier too. One cut and a straight line weld. Definitely easier than any of the work I already did on the rockers, rocker ends, and rear lower quarters. tl;dr: buy a tabco panel for the fender, unless you're really good, or plan on just covering it up (rust always comes back)

I'm trying so hard to be helpful but....

... Are the parts free or are you trying to get out of donating like everyone else in the B/S/T forum?

seattlejester, you mentioned that people like to run tokico springs and some KYB struts as a stage I option for suspension. Tokico springs aren't really made anymore, and it seems like people are moving to the Vogtland Springs. Stagg struts are the cheaper option, but they come packaged with the KYB too, so I'm thinking of going that route. I don't know if Vogtland springs on Tokico struts would be a better option, but it might be a little too pricey while I'm trying to piece together other things right now.

That sounds awesome! For now I think I'll keep my eye out on either. Converting my own to turbo is way too much of a hassle, especially since I want to bring it up to Washington after next summer and still drive it around. Working on the swap over time and making sure everything is ready then swapping it in all at once is the only reasonable option for me. Good info on the '81/82 vs '83, I appreciate it. I have have the Datsun Z Garage bookmarked and I've been reading as much as I can from there these days. Can't really work on my car right now, so I figure learning as much as possible is the best thing I can do while I start buying essential parts. I'm hoping to buy these books soon too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128022?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128049?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i3 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128030?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i4

Interesting washer bottle/motor. I know Black Dragon Auto sells universal ones (they specialize in Z parts), but I don't know how the fit compares. The ones at Black Dragon are $20

Looking so good!

I will add that you should read as much as you can. I spent YEARS just thinking about what kind of project I wanted to do because i was obsessed with Z's from the time I was about 12 or 13. Back then I really really wanted an RB swap (still kinda do...), but now that I'm older and smarter I understand better just how much work and money is really involved in even the "easier" swaps. I learned to do my own car work in high school and have always had an older brother who studied auto mechanics mentor me when I couldn't figure something out, and I still seriously debate even the most common (read: heavily documented) engine swaps. Trust me when I say this most likely is NOT a project you want to get involved in at this point in your life. Dreams are dreams of course, and if you still really want to do it, make sure you go into it with a clear head, READ as much as you can, learn about how repair/maintenance as a whole before you even get started, and then decide whether or not it's worth it for you.

I didn't know the whole car was selling cheaper than some engine/trans combos, good to know! Is the last tip still related to just getting a whole car or do you mean if I find an incomplete swap?

Took a nap... started thinking about what it would take to get the engine that's already in the car to around 200whp. I've tried reading up on it, but there doesn't seem to be much info on it other than stroker engines. So far all I've REALLY seen is get a better cam, upgrade to MS, header and exhaust, bigger throttle body... and I think that's about it. EDIT: It's purely out of curiosity. I know throwing in a stock L28ET would get me that faster, easier, and probably cheaper.

The differences between a '70 or '78 are pretty huge. Also read through this for forum etiquette and rules: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111201-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/

I'm running a Racetronix fuel pump in my L28E (Also 255LPH, just like your walbro). The pump was really made for an 99-03 LS1 setting, but it's in my my F-body tank feeding my stock L28E engine and I have no issues at all. My engine's probably the best part about my car right now actually.

Consistently lurking around multiple forums and craigslist. I took months before I found any L28ET's near me on Craigslist. Only thing I had seen for like half a year before this week was on the HybridZ forums and it was around $2000 because it was a built engine, which is why I was asking.

I LOOOVE the interior work. Keep it up. Will be subbing to see where the build goes!

I've been thinking of actually working out

For those who keep up with my very mediocre build so far, this is sort of the styling I'm going for (but probably not quite as low or with so much negative camber in the rear) The L28ET will probably fit my needs I think, it's just a matter of finding them and making sure it'll last a while. I've been doing a lot of reading and browsing the last couple nights and I think I might end up going L28ET. Save the RB25 for when things totally blow up and finding parts for the L28et is just not convenient anymore http://www.yogapantsandstance.com/originality-is-dead-tonys-datsun/

Yeah, that's the big problem I'm seeing, is most of the posts I find with pricing are from several years ago. Wasn't even really considering buying a trans/engine so soon, but considering they're becoming harder and harder to find and they're not terribly expensive I might just spring for it and let it sit around while I finish other things. Besides... my birthday is coming up. Maybe I can pull some strings and go 50/50 on it with my dad since he's gonna get some fun out of the car too haha. Thanks for the response!