Zetsaz

EDIT: Changed my mind as I was putting the autometer gauge in my cart. I think I'll be going with a Speedhut gauge where the clock is. Full programmable plus a more stock look I think. Long term it might be slightly pricier but I think if I continue this build eventually all the gauges will get upgraded to speedhut. Also ordered door panel clips, interior plastic rivets, and a windshield washer bottle/motor from MSA and Black Dragon.

I will add that horse power is something that looks great in a magazine or in some extreme build, but proper suspension and your own driving is what gets you around the track. Even if you're planning on pretty much just as street car most of the power will never be seen and the real fun is in how you drive and how well in tune the car feels.

I got my seats reupholstered in Mexico for $120 along with the console armrest.... The look pretty good and they're comfortable, but I haven't driven it more than about 5 minutes at a time yet.

Someone on here with a 280z recently did the coating thing under the cowl panel. Can't remember the build name. Car was painted some sort of Lambo orange/red. I'll find it later tonight if you haven't seen it so you can get an idea. I saved the pic at my home computer for reference because I liked the idea.

This is gonna be insane. It already looks great, i'm excited to see the final product!

Tony once again telling it how it is... haha

That car looks great! I actually liked the gold rim on the the wheels haha. And the RB in there looks clean.

Thanks for the response here Tony, answered my question from the N/A thread. (Sort of at least) I'm assuming this still applies to using a high pressure pump (255lph) on a stock 2.8 EFI engine.

I meant $2k on the set haha. I can't really afford forged wheels right now. I'm going for like $700-$1000 for wheels. Also, maybe it's my ignorance on performance wheels but shutting out anything near or over 15 lbs seems incredibly restricting especially for those of us with more limited funds to throw at our cars.

Since I've mentioned the rules already and I just reread my message from late last night it seemed blunt, didn't mean for that. Most of what you're interested in doing to the car you can find info on in the FAQ section of the forum. Tons of people do coilovers, but they require extensive custom work because there's no "bolt on" coilover set up for our cars. KYB with Vogtland lowering springs seems to be the more cheap alternative now that Tokico doesn't make the springs we need. The differential you want is entirely up to you... with a turbo set up most people use the Borg Warner T5. There's a big write up on the FAQ section on brakes. You don't even have to use the search function to find that one. Gives you lots of options with different parts you could even find in a junkyard. Just remember there is no "best" My biggest advice to you (which I have a hard time convincing myself to follow. Is that the first thing you need to do is get the car running stock as originally intended. Drive it around like that for a while THEN decide what it is you really need.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111201-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/ Read #2 and #4. Most of these (especially brakes and turbo swap) have been discussed extensively already.

At the very worst the cars start getting more attention from people like those at McKinney and we maybe get more aftermarket support

What did you line the underbody and floors with? And the engine bay? The project looks really great so far!

Michael, you also forget that not all of us can afford to drop $2k+ on a set of lightweight wheels....

rooger, are those Craft Squares (or some similar knockoff) on your car? I've been considering getting something like that. How do you like them?

Makes sense. Thanks for the feedback. I was just curious why I hadn't seen more people with them and was hoping to see some examples. Right now I'm actually leaning more towards Rota Grid Classics. (Can't really justify the cost of real TE37's just yet...)

EDIT: Posted in wrong thread. 8DC, your car looks like it's about at the same stage as mine haha

Is anyone running them? Any issues with brakes or suspension, etc...? I've seen them for sale on MSA and they seem like a stock looking alternative to the four spoke wheels that came stock with 280z's, but I've only ever seen them on the one car that MSA has pictured.

I might look into doing this. My straps are totally missing right now. Also broke 1 or 2 bolts when I was taking off the two points that were left attached after the straps were cut off..... Also, that twin head is looking great! I'm excited to see the final product. Maybe by the time it's finished I'll have money to buy one

273 on a modern N/A L6? That's awesome!

Do you happen to remember who? I'd love to pm them if I can. Speedhut has the programmable ones that are cheaper than the programmable autometer (at least for the fuel gauge), but they're still much more pricey. Not sure I wanna be dropping that kinda money on a gauge right now haha

Hmmm... I don't know about the intellitronix. I like them, but I was hoping for a mostly stock look. If I can use the Autometer ranges it'll work better for me I think. Plus slightly easier, since I don't have to splice anything to get the ohm range I need.

Thanks for the tips! I was aware of the adjustable ranges, but I don't think anything I've found in my budget is variable range :/ Are the 2-5/8" still a good fit for the center pods or would it be easier to go with the 2 inch with the PVC pipe adapter?

VERY interesting build. I'll definitely be wanting to come check it out when I'm back in town!

Slowly adding to my purchase list google doc. One of my priorities is the fuel gauge. I hope this post is useful to anyone searching around. I've done a lot of digging around the forum and I think this is what I'm going with. I found all the data from other posts, but never in the same place. http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-fuel-level-240e-33-f-sse-pro-comp.html -Stock fuel level gauge in any S30 was 2-5/8" (All center gauges were this size. Tach and speedo are 5") -Stock sending unit ohm range was effectively 0-90 but REVERSED from GM gauges. (E would be F if reading a GM gauge and vice versa) -This is true up until the LS1 sending units/gauges in '99-'02 (perhaps even later, I'm not sure about other LS1 cars) -The LS1 unit is about 250 ohms full and 40 ohm empty (250F-40E) -Standard aftermarket gauges, as far as I've seen only come in 240E-33F, which is close enough for me. Only modification required after putting in the new gauge will be to bend the sending unit to create a mirror image of itself so the readings aren't backwards. Will update this post with pictures of my install either in a couple weeks, or Thanksgiving depending on when I actually visit home. This one of the most important parts to getting my car on the road reliably. EDIT: If any of this information is wrong, please correct me for my own sake and that of anyone who happens to be reading