Zetsaz

Thanks for the response here Tony, answered my question from the N/A thread. (Sort of at least) I'm assuming this still applies to using a high pressure pump (255lph) on a stock 2.8 EFI engine.

I meant $2k on the set haha. I can't really afford forged wheels right now. I'm going for like $700-$1000 for wheels. Also, maybe it's my ignorance on performance wheels but shutting out anything near or over 15 lbs seems incredibly restricting especially for those of us with more limited funds to throw at our cars.

Since I've mentioned the rules already and I just reread my message from late last night it seemed blunt, didn't mean for that. Most of what you're interested in doing to the car you can find info on in the FAQ section of the forum. Tons of people do coilovers, but they require extensive custom work because there's no "bolt on" coilover set up for our cars. KYB with Vogtland lowering springs seems to be the more cheap alternative now that Tokico doesn't make the springs we need. The differential you want is entirely up to you... with a turbo set up most people use the Borg Warner T5. There's a big write up on the FAQ section on brakes. You don't even have to use the search function to find that one. Gives you lots of options with different parts you could even find in a junkyard. Just remember there is no "best" My biggest advice to you (which I have a hard time convincing myself to follow. Is that the first thing you need to do is get the car running stock as originally intended. Drive it around like that for a while THEN decide what it is you really need.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111201-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/ Read #2 and #4. Most of these (especially brakes and turbo swap) have been discussed extensively already.

At the very worst the cars start getting more attention from people like those at McKinney and we maybe get more aftermarket support

What did you line the underbody and floors with? And the engine bay? The project looks really great so far!

Michael, you also forget that not all of us can afford to drop $2k+ on a set of lightweight wheels....

rooger, are those Craft Squares (or some similar knockoff) on your car? I've been considering getting something like that. How do you like them?

Makes sense. Thanks for the feedback. I was just curious why I hadn't seen more people with them and was hoping to see some examples. Right now I'm actually leaning more towards Rota Grid Classics. (Can't really justify the cost of real TE37's just yet...)

EDIT: Posted in wrong thread. 8DC, your car looks like it's about at the same stage as mine haha

Is anyone running them? Any issues with brakes or suspension, etc...? I've seen them for sale on MSA and they seem like a stock looking alternative to the four spoke wheels that came stock with 280z's, but I've only ever seen them on the one car that MSA has pictured.

I might look into doing this. My straps are totally missing right now. Also broke 1 or 2 bolts when I was taking off the two points that were left attached after the straps were cut off..... Also, that twin head is looking great! I'm excited to see the final product. Maybe by the time it's finished I'll have money to buy one

273 on a modern N/A L6? That's awesome!

Do you happen to remember who? I'd love to pm them if I can. Speedhut has the programmable ones that are cheaper than the programmable autometer (at least for the fuel gauge), but they're still much more pricey. Not sure I wanna be dropping that kinda money on a gauge right now haha

Hmmm... I don't know about the intellitronix. I like them, but I was hoping for a mostly stock look. If I can use the Autometer ranges it'll work better for me I think. Plus slightly easier, since I don't have to splice anything to get the ohm range I need.

Thanks for the tips! I was aware of the adjustable ranges, but I don't think anything I've found in my budget is variable range :/ Are the 2-5/8" still a good fit for the center pods or would it be easier to go with the 2 inch with the PVC pipe adapter?

VERY interesting build. I'll definitely be wanting to come check it out when I'm back in town!

Slowly adding to my purchase list google doc. One of my priorities is the fuel gauge. I hope this post is useful to anyone searching around. I've done a lot of digging around the forum and I think this is what I'm going with. I found all the data from other posts, but never in the same place. http://www.autometer.com/2-5-8-fuel-level-240e-33-f-sse-pro-comp.html -Stock fuel level gauge in any S30 was 2-5/8" (All center gauges were this size. Tach and speedo are 5") -Stock sending unit ohm range was effectively 0-90 but REVERSED from GM gauges. (E would be F if reading a GM gauge and vice versa) -This is true up until the LS1 sending units/gauges in '99-'02 (perhaps even later, I'm not sure about other LS1 cars) -The LS1 unit is about 250 ohms full and 40 ohm empty (250F-40E) -Standard aftermarket gauges, as far as I've seen only come in 240E-33F, which is close enough for me. Only modification required after putting in the new gauge will be to bend the sending unit to create a mirror image of itself so the readings aren't backwards. Will update this post with pictures of my install either in a couple weeks, or Thanksgiving depending on when I actually visit home. This one of the most important parts to getting my car on the road reliably. EDIT: If any of this information is wrong, please correct me for my own sake and that of anyone who happens to be reading

Update since I got the chance to see it and get more details from the owner: -'83 L28ET, stage II cam, custom fuel rail, 450cc injectors, Garrett T3 turbo, high flow down pipe, upgraded pop off valve, double valve springs, ported head. -BW T5, carbon synchros, B&M short shifter. ... Should I make the guy an offer and let it sit around while I'm away from home, or wait?

Thanks for the offer! I think I might just buy them for myself long term and so I can have them as references down the road. The more I've been thinking about it, the more I'm settling into the idea of either and L28ET or just modifying what I have now. Would be better for me as a first swap. I don't wanna have to mess too much with different mounts and custom harnesses. Messing with MegaSquirt will be plenty fun on the L28 I got a chance to check out that engine in Bellingham that I posted. The guy seemed to know what he was doing. Had a 260 2+2 with and SR20DET swap. Definitely not buying just yet, but the owner said he'd let me know if he had any other offers and could probably hold onto it until I was able to bring the car up to Washington. His own words "it's not going anywhere." I'll be reading up more on the strut/spring combos... still undecided on what to go with.

I have rot on the same spot in my passenger fender that I didn't get a chance to fix before leaving home. Driver side was perfect strangely. I tried fabing my own patch panel, but with the way the bottom side requires extra work to get it to bolt to the rocker I think I'm just gonna give up and send a tabco panel back home and have my dad swap it.It'd be much easier too. One cut and a straight line weld. Definitely easier than any of the work I already did on the rockers, rocker ends, and rear lower quarters. tl;dr: buy a tabco panel for the fender, unless you're really good, or plan on just covering it up (rust always comes back)

I'm trying so hard to be helpful but....

... Are the parts free or are you trying to get out of donating like everyone else in the B/S/T forum?

seattlejester, you mentioned that people like to run tokico springs and some KYB struts as a stage I option for suspension. Tokico springs aren't really made anymore, and it seems like people are moving to the Vogtland Springs. Stagg struts are the cheaper option, but they come packaged with the KYB too, so I'm thinking of going that route. I don't know if Vogtland springs on Tokico struts would be a better option, but it might be a little too pricey while I'm trying to piece together other things right now.

That sounds awesome! For now I think I'll keep my eye out on either. Converting my own to turbo is way too much of a hassle, especially since I want to bring it up to Washington after next summer and still drive it around. Working on the swap over time and making sure everything is ready then swapping it in all at once is the only reasonable option for me. Good info on the '81/82 vs '83, I appreciate it. I have have the Datsun Z Garage bookmarked and I've been reading as much as I can from there these days. Can't really work on my car right now, so I figure learning as much as possible is the best thing I can do while I start buying essential parts. I'm hoping to buy these books soon too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128022?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i1 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128049?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i3 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1931128030?gwSec=1&redirect=true&ref_=s9_simh_gw_p14_d3_i4