Slow_Old_Car

well, this would be the 3rd or 4th time someones tried to do this... if it does actually come to fruition, i'm interested.

You don't need 20psi to beat a vette btw... 10psi on a good tune will cover a c5 w/ mods in most cases. 15psi will cover a c5 z06 or base c6 in most cases... c6 z06... 20psi wouldn't be a half bad idea... but you'll never put it down in the low end w/ out radials, and your aerodynamics will get you walked if you try to run him top end. all a mute point now that your down again obviously, but like others have said... a "low boost" motor can be perfectly fun and reliable. 10psi daily, 15psi "medium" boost, and i've still not tuned for my "full kill mode" but i imagine it'll be around 22ish psi. either way, bet your getting pretty good and knowing torque specs on the internals now arn't ya!

how are things looking for producing these though? it's so frustrating when really good parts only get made in runs of 1-5 before fizzling out ya know? not that you haven't heard that a million times before i'm sure.

photos of this electromotive setup?

for a seal, somthing a little more servicable and clean would be preferable. if when cutting, the lengths were accomidated to allow for a half inch tab on the end that you bend up w/ a brake or some pliers, that would give room to use adhesive backed pressure stripping like modern vehicle window/door seals. just order in a roll of the stripping, cut to length, and remember to keep that .5" padding in your measurements. then the part can be removed for vehicle service w/ out looking like a colligen injection gone horredly wrong.

any driving reports of temp operations? perhaps a engine log of a 10min drive w/ a few 1st through 4th pulls?

your trapping 150+ mph?

still waiting on my various donor cars to arrive. so far i don't have either of the 2 s30, and of the other 3 mystery source cars, only one has arrived. then again, seeing the dragster kinda shot one of my ideas to sunshine. so i might be shifting my build.

vice grips w/ a shop wrag or two wrapped around the shaft. done dozens of times, have yet to mar a shaft.

judging by the show description, i'd say be very very careful. sounds like it's engineered to screw you out of your car in the second round and beyond. ya'll already tempted fate and made the Z community proud once, so it would be pretty awful if they have this show designed for "quick grooming" of the competitiors.

i think the point everyone is making is that if you didn't own your car originally... there is a wild card factor at play as most of these cars have been around a long time among several owners. And as a result, parts may have changed, so verifying what is specifically on your own Z... is imperative.

i've never seen them. i've seen guys take urthane and machine mounts that use a through bolt design to keep the sandwhich in place though. i've also seen people take stock mounts, and just box them up with some scrap metal to produce a solid mount at O.E. dimensions. there is somthing to be said about having different resistance levels in your mounts though... if your motor is solid/urathane/whatever... and then your tranny and diff are O.E. rubber. your next failure will be one of the rubbers. if you are going to upgrade, do it evenly across the entire driveline.

i run 11.5:1 under boost, is there a more optimal target? i figured better safe and rich than lean and fast.

looks like i'm going to have to create a experimental timing map to play with, sounds like i'm being way too conservative. whats compression on these 2 motors? and what kind of fuel diet? i'm doing 7:1 on 93 pump, L28ET-p90/f54 w/ HKS 2MM.

got timing tables for either of these setups? i'd like to see how it flows cause i'm doing 19 degree's at 15psi WOT.

at 3.5" your going to be killing alot of flow velocity... make sure your fans are up to snuff on that radiator side or else you may find yourself with a newfound cooling problem. looks nice though!

and outside of warmup time... what was the functional reason behind a thermostat? perhaps this is the southern hot states mind set, but down here... i don't see a time where we'd find ourselves driving in 32f or lower weather. and we spend a majority of the year above 80 degrees. in addition to the thermal layer notations by tony c which can have some extreamly high effects too. seems to me if you live in a hot climate, and don't mind the warm up time, that you could run without a thermostat and make the most of the constant cooling rather than stop and go. that being said, i have a 160 unit in my car, and was idling at 179 or so last night with ambient temps being in the 60's.

i just converted over to a -4an and used a stainless braid -4 line. doesn't fit as tight as the stocker, but it's nice to have all that flex w/ out worry of cracking a hardline.

1.9's on eibach pro-kit, blown rear tokico HP's, 225/60/15 BFG G-force sport street tires, 3.54 open diff r200, stock halfshafts, and a Z32 trans. this was achieved as a fluke through slipping the clutch pretty bad off the line, it was a cheap datsun truck clutch though, and started slipping all on it's own when i shifted to second, and third... so i don't advise it. next round of trial and error is 235/60/15 MT E/T Street Radials, a spec stage 3 clutch, and a 3500rpm 2 step launch control. i'd like to throw some illuminas in the back too to help dampen the squat which is rediculously aggressive right now w/ the blown HP's. i like JNJ's idea on weighing the car down to a level halfshaft orientation then installing a series of bumpstops to that height... i do believe i might have to try that our JNJ. Also if i might ask, what sway bars are ya'll running on that thing... seems like w/ stock springs if it has no sway bars it would be a very loose car.

75w90 seems to do just fine for me?

Alright, so megasquirt is a huge hit, it's run by thousands of people on dozens of makes worldwide... Alot of us run it, and it works well, we love the adjustability, etc... What i'm wondering about now, is durability. The production side of the community has addressed this with MS-II v3.0 with it's upgraded circutry for being more rugged in the automotive world. But what can we as end users do? I'm no electrician, but i've been kicking around the idea of ways to buffer or clean the power that feeds the boxes, add in layers of protection beyond a simple inline fuse. Figured a few of the more electrically savvy people here have probally done somthing to this effect and i'm just not using the right verbage to describe what i'm thinking. Basically devices to handle power surges and/or help smooth the power flow to a MS box. Whats the name of the item i'm looking for here? I'm getting to a point that i want to be able to do stints in my car that could range hundreds of miles (SEZ9 for example). But i want to build in some protection that is more-so than just carrying a entire spare MSnS setup. In my case: MS2.2 v3.0, 029q2 file set on MT 2.25b, mapdaddy 4-bar, 440cc supras, resistor pack.

it's been awhile since i've messed w/ stock injectors (assuming you mean ZXT 380cc injectors, or was it 360cc?). either way, i think that will be your bottle neck in the system. perhaps not at 15psi, but it will be the 1st thing to inhibit your progress to any real gains, bite the bullet and spring for 440's or 550's now and safe yourself the headache. also put going to MS as a top priority, flapper door tuning is for the birds.

yep, all thermo housings are the same 2 bolt through mount system to the head, with the difference being if the upper half is a 2 or 3 bolt design. as long as you have matching halves you can replace it to your hearts content. a little playing around w/ a grinder can reall produce a cleaned up piece too, getting rid of useless areas of casting and whatnot. do so w/ caution though, as some areas are very thin and easy to crack.

agreed, this is the fast track route to tracing a oil leak issue. though having a clean motor prior to appliciation of the die is useful too.

Agreed, looks just fine to me.