rayaapp2

I purchased a set of covers from MSA's garage sell at the big event a few months back. They were happy to sell me the mounts at the front counter. They were really inexpensive. I highly recommend purchasing 2 sets in case you have issues.

MWHAHAHAHA... there was a reason I asked: MPG hike at cruise. I cannot remember if I need the AAC valve still. I kind of doubt it, but I will confirm first. My next issue is figuring out if the Z31 ECCS will also control the EGR system. So Im off to look into that.

There is a cold and hot lash. Some prefer cold and some prefer hot. Im pretty anal about valve lash so I check and adjust it cold and then recheck it after its at full operating temperature. Its pretty normal for these engines to 'tick'. Its knowing when there is excessive tick that's the trick. Cold spec is .008" intake/.010" exhaust Hot spec is .010" intake/.012" exhaust A go no go gauge is good, but a skilled technician will use a feeler gauge and know exactly what to feel for and how to stab the angle of the dangle. In other words adjust them and recheck them multiple times you will mess up the first hundred times you try until you get the hang of it. forgive me if I'm stating the obvious. The only time these valve lash specs are null are if you have a re-ground or aftermarket camshaft, but these specs are the same for all Nissan L-series heads that cam in the US, even the 4 cyls if I am not mistaken.

Ive purchased from them out of Rancho Cordova and Fresno, but currently their closest location that I know of to me is San Fransisco or at least that is where their main Ca warehouse is. I figured the $70+shipping product would be better than the CarQuest version. I have installed the CarQuest units before and though they are crude in design they work and install in a superior way. I have a set in a 1972 240z that were installed 12 years ago! I remember them being easy and with plenty of adjustment for even any moderately lowered Z. I would have to go jack the car up, but I remember them being a solid aluminum cam with no bushing whatsoever. Lube them up and install them. Those cams are cut very well and the only care to be taken is when removing the stock bushing so that the ID of the control arm is not galled. Crude but very effective and also shows that a cheap manufacture can properly cut for the ID of the control arm without having any hickups and that the control arm ID has a precise enough tolerance to make a jig for such a bushing to be cut in. I wrote MSA a letter regarding this ordeal. If they write me back I will provide them with the fix, though since they are only the sellers I doubt it will have much impact on the product. I may use the instruction sheet to contact g-Machines Inc and let them know of my displeasure with their product and offer my thoughts on a corrective measure.

I have a complaint about an MSA kit. G-machine 2853101 camber bushings front I purchased this kit for almost $80 to my door. Not so long ago I could go to CarQuest and purchase a very similar kit for around $40. So it took me some time to convince myself I should spend double that on this kit. Having purchased it and now in the middle of installing it Im very un-happy. The kit consists of Delrin bushings, lock washers, and cams. The cams are great. The Delrin bushings are a HUGE problem. I can see them having to be pressed into the control arms. That makes sense. The problem is that once you press these into the control arm the bushing ID expands and no amount of rubber mallet hammering will force the cam through the bushings! So someone like me says fine I will hone the crap out of the ID to get the cam to fit! Well I F-d up the left side and now there is slop in the control arm which is going to show up on the alignment machine. No bolt on alignment kit should have to be modified like this. If I had used my press to install the cam there is no way their adjustment tool was going to have any effect on the camber alignment as that sucker was going to be solid where ever it lands. Even with a large adjustable wrench I could not budge the one I did get in the first shot around. So now I have an adjustable right side and the energy bushing is going back in the left side. If I had the stock bushing in there still Id be so unbelievably screwed. Cutting/Drilling the bushing properly while under compression would have eliminated this issue or have lessened it considerably. These bushings were simply built in the cheapest manor possible and sold at a premium. Im fairly certain all the control arms I have have tight tolerance ID's to properly fit the OE metal bushings so that ID is fairly universal. So install the bushing into a jig that properly expands the bushing before the ID is cut for the cam. Now I have to source new bushings or modify and hopefully with success the energy urethane bushings which just makes me mad at myself for screwing up but also has me focusing my pissed off attitude at MSA for their crappy cheap design they sold me for twice as much as the competitor. It was worth the effort to drive 2 hours to carquest in the end. Sure taught me. Grrr and Arg! If you live close to carquest and your salesperson is willing to take the time to dig they do have the alignment cams still in a warehouse the last time I checked. Signing off pissed at myself, g-Machine, and MSA. Ray

I will be up there briefly June 30th and 31st. Why whats up? I think if you hit Venus up on a 'good day' you may be able to get the bits you need for a good price. You would only need to set it up close to what I have in the pictures and you would be able to choose from intercooled or large J-pipe. I could go either way right now. You would need to eliminate the stock rubber turbo intake. Specifically for your 240Z you would only really need a new intake with separated provisions for the PCV(if in fact you wanted to continue to run that), and the BOV. All those other orifices can be eliminated when building your new intake pipe. The expensive part always seems to be the silicone couplers. 034MotorSports(Fremont Ca and they do ship and one of our members here is an employee) makes T couplers that will work for your intake piping. They are not too pricey and Ive been happy with their couplers as opposed to the Ebay knock off stuff that gets hard, or blows up under boost. Obviously you will not see boost before the turbo, but it illustrates the point. Its been some time since Ive actually had to think about setting up a turbo L series and it seems Ive lost some of the information I once knew that launched my 260Z with an L28 in to the low 12 sec 1/4 mile times. Matter of fact its been at least 6 years(maybe 7) since Ive owned one and several more since I had built one. Ive been refreshing myself though.

rejracer RB25det stock BOV after I cut the cold pipe to fit and used an intercooler pipe from a dodge sprinter MB 5cyl diesel. Actually you can see the garrett on the floor in the first picture off the same sprinter. Just playing around with ideas. Should give you some of your own even if your running stock boost levels or no intercooler. Personally I like having charged volume in front of the throttle plate.

When your done for the evening leave yourself a seat! As viewed from my beer chair: Loading made easy and Saves SawZall blades Again when done for the night make sure you have a good beer perch!

Clinical, as pointed out by everyone that comes over. I ended up cutting it up. Im bringing home another members 240Z in the next month or so along with my trucks bed and trailer full of parts and one '02 Katana GSX750F. Not to mention Im taking on a customers 73 240Z that needs brakes, L24-L28 engine R&R, 5spd conversion from autobox, and replacement exhaust system. In my defense the brown 280z is sold and there is a white 260Z not pictured that is also sold. The 280z will be sticking around though for an LS1 swap and much more. So that should explain why the 82 was cut up as soon as it was. The back fees on the registration were just the seal on its fate. The engine is now on the engine stand in my garage next to the spare RB25 build Im lagging on and several other turbo and non-turbo L28 long blocks rolling around on the floor. I need a shop. Oh did I mention that the turbo charger is practically new! The compressor/compressor housing, center, and wastegate are all brand new. The wastegate actuator and turbine housing are re-used in good shape. So practically a new turbo on this engine came with the car! There is practically no play in the shaft. It almost feels like a ball bearing setup. I will have to open it up and inspect it for a 270* thrust bearing and install one if needed.

vacuum pump/EGR/A/C(idle kickup) controller. Question to be asked is: Is this device ECCS(ECU) controlled or controlled through external sources? I am curious, because ECCS control means that it can be retained in a swap easily for smog compliance.

Come down to Cali and trade me your drivetrain and donor car(minus the engine swap components you need) for a low mileage RWD RB25det 5spd and an RB25det short block so I can put the AWD in my car

My last visit to sac yielded an older woman driving west bound on US50 near downtown with a full on tin foil hat that was kinda similar to the one Magneto wears in X-men in a early 90's Tercel wagon. That was a hoot! There are definitely some weirdos around there. My driving becomes ultra defensive when im in the greater Sacramento area esp when Im in a smaller car. Im the arse-hole also on occasion to drive my F250 4x4 through there and push everyone else around... let them hit me... hell Ill give em a push! Sorry to hear about that. Next time return the favor and turn their info into the CHP NOT local Police. Ive dealt with Rancho Cordova Police. They are not fast to respond to anything. I had a guy on the curb after I chased him on foot while he was driving off with my rental trailer down Folsom Blvd. I held him there and waited for the cops to show for over an hour! The local CHP however WILL respond in minutes esp if the assailant is still on the road next to you... Also first hand experience with another A-hole on US50. Its nice to live in the Monterey area again. I do not miss Sac driving or neighborhoods. Ray

I am posting this father's day morning to gloat my latest CL find. Mind you the car barely runs currently and was a blast to drive 30 miles home @50mph 250K miles 1982 280zx turbo There are about $600 in back fees due now that Ive been able to check out the DMV reg calculator. The seller had no clue that you had to non-op it if it didnt pass smog. Oh well its pretty rusty. However it has a solid transmission, suspension, and engine. The fuel pump and fuel system is on it way out. With good pressure in the fuel system everything sounds good. I got up this morning and did a valve adjustment on it and changed the spark plugs. Best $200 Ive spent in a while. Moral of the story: Its worth it to call those CL adds with no price listed. The guy was gonna donate the car and could have easily been talked down. His reasoning was to the effect of the rims are worth $200. I gladly handed over two crisp $100 bills and left with a smile and enjoyed the 'journey' home. Its setup on suspension tech lowering springs and monroe shocks too! I figured even if the reg was as bad as it sounded before I checked it out that I could not go wrong for $200. Im half temped to build a Lemons cars.

Fuel Cell time. Im looking at a 16Gal. fuel cell from Summit. I do not like the idea of having the filler neck in the passenger compartment. Id rather have it routed outside that compartment. So Im looking at fast fill valves that I can connect to the stock filler neck tube. My filler neck wont be in the stock location as my fenders do not have provision for the original gas cap door or support for the filler neck assembly. So Im placing it behind the license plate like an old domestic vehicle with a flip down door. My dilemma is that I do not know how the fast fill valve attaches to the fuel cell. I see some that just bolt to the fill door location. Im needing to place the fill valve in a pretty specific sport in order to avoid passenger compartment intrusion. I know Im just being painfully anal about this, but that's what I'm after. I just do not see how some of these valves mount. With the plastic non-bladder cells can I simply cut and bolt the fill valve to the cell? I ask because I assume there is a seal. If its an o-ring or something of that nature the fill valve may only work with a specific cell... I just cannot get a universal answer. If it helps these are the parts Im looking at. RCI Racing 7038A Summit Racing SUM-290100

This is aimed at those actually BEATING on their Wilwood brake systems. Until now my brakes have been adequate, but only barely and I know they would burn up in a heat beat at the track as under very spirited driving I can get them to overheat and go hard. Currently I am running 4 piston toyota calipers with stock rotors in the front and the (I hesitate) stock drums in the rear with 300hp. So Im getting my car put back together from a wreck and I am just gonna bite the bullet and purchase one of the Arizona Z car kits for the front. I have a disc brake conversion for the rear sitting in my garage. Im a big fan of over-kill when ever funding allows me to go there. My plans are to try and hit 550WHP. Even if I hit 500WHP Id be fairly happy. With all that power, now more than ever do I want to make sure I have all safety equipment and very good brakes. So is it going to be worth it to spend the extra $650 for the 13" rotors and 6 piston calipers? Or will the 4 pistons and 12.2" rotor setup still be plenty to stop me on a dime? Im looking at a 1 1/16" MC though I have the option of a 1". Both are already bolt ons for me. Im running rather large tires with approx 25" diameters. Im going a little overboard with it for sure. I just have never had any experience with either of these brake setups and I do not know anyone that actually beats on them at a track with anything close to the power level Im shooting for.

radiators

That's interesting and I will have to look into that. I was under the impression that as long as it was a US vehicle and all the appropriate related emissions equipment was intact it was legal to swap even Ca to Fed. The ONLY difference between a Federal and Ca S30 is the Catalyst that Ive been able to detect when speaking of the L28 strictly. When in doubt just follow what the ref says though as he is the word that says yes or no to a particular swap.

PRC double pass radiator for a chevy. PRC will do all the work to make it a bolt in for you for a really fair price. It will cost about the same as ordering one of the champion stock bolt in's. Just tell them the inlet, outlet diameters, where you want those outlets, where you want mounts, etc. and they will do it before it ships out to you. There are several of us on here running these radiators and I dont know anyone thats had an issue with the company or the product. The part number is floating around here on this forum somewhere.PRC

Well after 4 months and a ton of haggling with the insurance and several broken laws latter I have a settlement to fix the car. Its about $5000 short of a full fix, but close enough to get it started and Ill come up with the rest. The long process of putting all the broken bits back together again starts. The short list of what Im getting: -1 Tokico BZ3015 rear shock -240Z strut & A-arm -2 Optima Red Top batteries -Reaction Research 280yz kit -Arizona Zcar big brakes 13†rotor and 6 piston caliper -Garrett GT35R -LoveFab Exhaust Manifold -Injectors 800cc -fuel rail -fpr tomei -044 Bosch fuel pump -A/N fittings -25’ x2 3/8†fuel lines -CCW wheels 17x10.5 17x9.5 -Tires 315/30R17 275/40R17 -inner fender wells rear -Intercooler lines -MAF meter 4†-body work and paint There are some body lines on the driver side rear that will need addressed before I can place the 280yz fenders on as well, but I was surprised to find so little damage up front under the headlight bucket. I will be ordering parts for everything very soon pending the check from insurance clearing. thats all for now I will keep posting. EDIT: I hope to be painted and done by MSA next year with any luck.

All the reasons why technicians like myself are considering taking up other avenues of employment and letting our smog licenses expire. The law is not setup to really go after the cars, but the technicians preforming the smog tests and all the responsibility is laid on them. We just do not get paid enough for that responsibility flat rate or hourly. Come 2013 when the current test mode goes full active the general public will see one or both of the following. Smog test prices skyrocket or a fall out of technicians from either failing to be employed due to their FPR score or simply moving on to another area of employment that's safer. Im still up in the air but have already taken up a position as a diagnosis technician. I do not know if I will continue to renew my technician license. Ill let you the readers translate that into how hard its gonna be to pass a car that could be iffy with a swap. No way in hell would I ever jeopardize my lively hood doing illegal smogs, but these new laws put more emphasis on every dotted i than ever. Two slip ups(be they harmless and/or simple) and the tech is no longer employable by certain shops and will likely be passed over for hire at another shop despite the contingency for correcting your FPR score. I say now wait for the lines and appointments to get your smog done. Personally Im just not buying anything new enough to fall under the bi-annual inspection. Swede- your best bet is to follow hybrid240z's outline. V8 swaps can be legal. If in doubt consult your local referee though you may need an appointment to do so as he will be the final say in what you can an cannot do.

73 240z $300 Im just on the tail end of dealing with insurance for my own 260Z. Its hell. Id say try and fix it, however unless you trust someone enough to get the frame straightened out or have the front clip replaced properly just replace the shell. This 73 is in or near Yuba so its no entirely to far for that cheap of a car. I thought long and hard about getting it myself for the rims and body panel bits but fuel was not economical enough to do it. Good luck! Ray

It appears that I was miss-informed. Their payout for the policy that covers this loss is capped at $10,000 so Im gonna be out of pocket the additional $4500 in repairs and losses to date related to the loss of transportation over the past 4 months. So they are gonna send me a release for the cap and there doesnt appear to be anything I can do beyond that as my insurance would have had to have collision to cover the rest. After all the fighting and such I have a few days to think about my re-course but I dont believe I would get anywhere with it, so I will likely take it and attempt to fix my car with what I get. Thanks for the help folks. I spoke with my insurance and they do not offer classic car insurance so I will be making a phone call to Hagerty after I get the car repaired.

Sanjeev aka GTZ that was at MSA with the blueish 260Z with the hood that opens wrong is appraised and insured for $30,000. Willing to post a CL add and send a link for me? Thanks Ray

The car is not being salvaged according to them so Im not handing it over to them. What is happening is that they are only valuing a non-total settlement that is below the costs of repairs. In most cases this would be a total loss if it stopped there, but there is some messed up stuff going on in the background. Ive already got a case against them for breaking CVC code and Fair Claims Settlement Practice Regulations, and the DOI has already slapped them on the wrist once. I could have easily sold my car for something like $20,000 Im sure if it was on the market in its prior condition yet the insurance company doesnt have proof of that and their only source of value is coming from a handful of stock 260z's being sold for way less which isnt comparing apples to apples. So that is what I am trying to get at. I realize they prorate parts and such depending on mileage. I dont believe Im trying to defraud or screw the insurance company, but I have physical undeniable proof they are trying to screw me as far as a court of law goes. Like I mentioned I have attorneys, the department of Insurance of Ca, and my insurance all over this. Anyway, hopefully that makes my intentions a little more clear. Im just trying to see if they right all their issues or in fact continue to hand me a court case. But I really need to get some adds folks. ZT-R, would you be willing to make an add for your car with what you think your car might sell. Im fairly certain your car is in similar shape to mine. The only problem is the mileage in between here and Socal.

First off, let me say that I hope this does not offend anyone as this is definitely not tech! This happens to be the most appropriate place I can think off to reach the audience I need to reach. Please consider helping a fellow Z enthusiast out, possibly by spreading the word? I am battling insurance as some here know. I have tallied up my receipts and handed them into insurance(way over my initial estimate of $20,000). My BIGGEST problem now is what is available on the market for sale that an assessment company will use to compare my vehicle to. Being a 1974 Datsun 260Z there just isnt very much out there and what is for sale is not even in the ball park. They are comparing stock 260Z's with values under $10,000(in most cases less than several thousand) to mine. They are not totaling my car out, but they have put a cap on their settlement amount based on UN-comparable cars. They are doing everything they can to pay as little without totaling the car out and paying me in full! At this point they are not able to offer an amount that I know will actually cover the repair costs or fund a new build even with the old car as parts. What I need are similar vehicles for sale at similar values for their comparison. IF anyone knows of an add for a similar vehicle or is willing to place an add for a similar vehicle (obviously Im not asking anyone to sell their vehicle but list it for whatever they feel is reasonable for show) please forward the add address to me so I can send it to the assessment company and insurance company I am dealing with. I have a bunch of help from misc attorney friends, the DOI of California, and my own personal insurance company who is now involved due to a huge by large mistake on the behalf of this other insurances part. I just really need some of you 260Z owners or Fellow Datsun Drivers to send me links to vehicles that are of good comparison. I have listed below what all I have into my car. I dont think the cars Im looking for have to be exact, but they should be similar enough that the assessment company will honor the values. For example they should have an RB swap and significant suspension and structural modifications. My car has a crappy paint job so Im not necessarily looking for the best looking car. Here is what I have: 1974 Datsun 260Z early model 8/74 Parts List: Bad Dog Z full lenth frame rails Repaired floor pans sectioned struts with Tokico Illumina shocks bz3015 & bz3099 Cosmo Racing EVOII coil overs Energy suspension bushings all the way around New wheel bearings on all corners rebuilt rack and pinion new inner and outer tie rods new ball joints new upper front strut cap bearings rear strut pins replaced 4 years ago 27 spline outer stub axles R200 3.70 gear rear end Clutch type LSD with axles ModernMotorSports rear axle hub adapters core type custom transverse link(for diff cover clearance) strut mount ties(custom) custom driveshaft 1" bump stop spacers front customized rear sway bar mounts to clear frame rails and axles New front diff mount OE Nissan New engine mount isolators earls stainless brake lines R32 gtr brake booster and BN44 master 78 toy 4wd front calipers new ceramic brake pads new front rotors new rear drums(rear disc conversion sitting in my garage) new wheel cylinders new clutch master new clutch slave Custom stainless polished 3" Mandrel bent exhaust consisting of Greddy EVO2 350Z exhaust system XS Sport down pipe and some custom pieces to fit the car and it completely clears the bottom of the car so speed bumps are not an issue. custom trans cross member rick wong rb motor mounts rb25det S2 1994 R33 skyline drivetrain 034 Motorsports custom intercooler lines with t clamps and 4 ply couplers 30X16X3 3in 3 out intercooler Mitsimushi Genuine greddy intake manifold OBX side mount header Super Spark Coils exedy stock clutch Nismo fuel pressure regulator custom turbo intake system extended to front of car Apexi Power Intake R33 filter kit HKS adjustable wastegate rebuilt stock S2 nylon/ceramic turbo new upgraded OE Nissan exhaust manifold studs which are NLA now greddy timing belt arp head studs cometic mls head gasket 3 angle valve grind spertech valve stem seals cometic mls exhaust gasket cometic mls intake gasket fresh gasket surfaces on head (machine work) N1 water pump N1 oil pump new OEM timing belt tensioner new OEM timing belt idler custom 7.5qt oil pan ISIS short shifter cable speedo driver for trans Nissan Navara cog cable driver PRC 24" GM double pass customized for RB swap 2400cfm radiator fan hayden fan controller 96 Q45 throttle body w/o t/c Lokar 38" universal throttle cable PCV catch can system and breather catch Rebuilt RB alternator BD Turbo Cool Down timer Autometer pyro gauge autometer boost gauge innovate LC1 wideband Apexi Power FC Apexi boost controller kit Fc datalogit tuned at 18psi 280z fuel tank 1975 bosch 044 fuel pump with -8 AN lines 3/8" hard fuel lines feed and return 2 Optimal red tops (one in engine bay and the other behind passenger seat with custom plasma cut holding tray) engine compartment belly pan xenon air dam air dam belly plate intercooler and radiator support area air foils euro clear tail lenses rear only bi-xenon HID 10 kelvin conversion Hella H4 glass 7" rounds new window seals all the way around and good door/hatch seals BRIDE custom shift boot aftermarket seats dash cap all stock gauges working (even my clock works) My AC doesnt work because Im short 2 lines and one receiver dryer(was a non AC equipped 260z and now has functioning hvac carpet kit(several years old now but in pretty good shape) 300zx turbo z31 87 SS shift knob in like new condition custom rubber shift boot and trans tunnel shifter hole cover 4 Enkie Series 92 15X7.5 wheels in Datsun 0 Offset 2 month old Kumho ECSTA 225/40r15 full set of wheel locks 280zx 6 spoke center caps modified to fit enkie 92's In the least thank you for reading! Feel free to pass the information along! rayaapp2@hotmail.com is a good email you may send links to or PM me.