rayaapp2

I technically just finished paying the car off and transferred the title. So there is a paper trail of the cost of the vehicle and receipts of the shocks, radiator, and fan clutch. I feel confident they will eventually give in in the event of a total, but right now they think they can fix it as it didnt automatically total out in their system. I seriously doubt its not totaled. All I can do is go with the flow of their system at the moment. The best fix would be to tube frame the front end. Id bet it'd be cheaper than installing a new front clip! If they want to fix it Im going to let them. LOL Ive been driving for over 10 years. Its this year that has been a royal pain. My other Z was hit while it was parked so it can happen anywhere in your driveway or at work(both in the case of my other Z). So I enjoy driving my Z to work. Its like therapy before and after a work day. ROFL!!!!! Salvage and title get bleeped! T-i-t-l-e and S-a -l-v-a-g-e

Contacted his insurance. They are going to send someone out to come inspect the 240Z.

The paramedics took them before I got his information. I didnt want to talk to him anyway. I was fuming. I have to wait for the police report to find out who to file a claim with. The officer would not give me the information. I have his badge number. He simply said I have to go to a local CHP station and physically pickup a copy. The guy stayed in his van until the paramedics took him.

I have been servicing this car since 2002. I bought the car very recently and have been driving it every day to work. I have a lot of history with the car. My first thoughts when the car came to a stop were simply as the title states. Fear and Loathing. I got out of the car with tears in my eyes. I have 2 cars that mean so much to me that they are somewhere between a pet and a child. Both of those cars that I have had so much history with have been hit this year. One nearly totaled and this one Im sure is totaled. My passenger and I did not escape unscathed though. Both of us started having pain 2.5 hours later. Back and Neck. We are going to see the doc tomorrow morning. My buddy hit his head on the dash and did something to his right arm and its swelling. He neglected to tell me or the paramedics. I did not see him during the accident or I would have said something. I was focused on keeping the car going 45mph in reverse down the freeway on the shoulder and not onto the embankment or out into the other 4 lanes. That was all I could do. Somehow I let the clutch out in reverse direction in 5th gear and stalled the engine out before we stopped. Its very surreal to see a vehicle come out of the mist at a 45* angle doing 50-55mph just before they hit you! I knew what was going to happen and I prepared as best I could, but man I can tell you the driver was a frozen figure in perfect posture as his out of control vehicle slid into my front end. He was definitely in shock when my buddy, paramedics, and CHP talked with him. He didnt speak very much English as I understand. I refused to go near him or speak with him. I was way to hostile and knew it. I bet the guy was frozen at the wheel when his vehicle started to slid sideways at the speed! Just had a thought I hadnt thought of yet! I guess if he would have missed me his momentum would have carried his minivan into a ditch... The ditch to the left of the man standing here! That van would have launched like the challenger! Maybe Karma was in action saving that man and his 5 year old from a horrible accident! Thats an interesting thought!

Same one Kameari Sells as well. Pretty generic JDM.

So I just spent the better part of this year fighting insurance and dealing with DMV over my car that was hit in Feb. Well my 72 orange Z was hit today. This time I was driving 50mph in the slow lane when a new Toyota Sienna van hydroplaned across 2 lanes to find my drivers side front fender. Spun me 180* around so I slide from about 45mph to a stop in reverse on the shoulder while the van went off the road and up the side of an embankment. My back and neck hurt pretty good. Gotta go to the doctor tomorrow. My passenger hit his head on the dash and messed his arm up. His back and neck are also killing him. Funny how it takes 2.5 hours for the pain to show up! Im sure the car is totaled. The strut was broken off from the spindle up front, brand new radiator was bent sideways, and the strut tower is all contorted. I can fix my 260Z, but this is not worth fixing. The sad part is that I have a front clip, but no shop that can do the work correctly will be cheap enough to not have it be salvaged. Its gonna be a fun dealing with all this over the next few months. The guy who hit me was in shock. His kid in the van. He didnt speak very much English. "Road Slip" was all he told us, No shItz sir! I just bought this car not long ago so insurance has no leg to stand on about what its worth is. $800 in Sales tax to DMV. Let them total it. Ill collect and retain it I suppose and buy a clean 72 chassis to transfer over all my parts to. Seriously, I have a perfect driving record and Im hit by 3 idiots in the same year! 2012 can suck me where the sun dont shine! Does Karma only work in a negative fashion? Perhaps I was Hitler in a former life? I dont get. So again I have no DD Zcar. twitch twitch... how am I suppose to get that fix? Signed Fear And Loathing By Ray A.

Isnt the blue turd a manual Tony? I have a hard time believing simply going with EFI will make the difference on this setup. I set the SU's so that they fouled the plugs at idle and got a nice fat AFR under load and still got the ping. I set the idle at 2K rpm for this test! It ran while pouring black smoke from the exhaust at 1100rpm before I brought the idle up. The automatic transmission loading is a big part of my problem I feel. Im going to try and track down a Maxima automatic distributor. I think that may help me out as well. This setup will ping under 3500rpm in 2nd gear up a hill. If my foot is more than half way into the pedal it it pings and I loose torque. I found a set of brand new BRP7ES plugs and Im going to put those in today after I lean the mixture out a little. Im also going to try and retard the cam and see if I dont loose all the power. I set the cam at TDC with a degree wheel and dial indicator. Id venture a guess that most stock setups have the cam slightly retarded. I have a brand new timing assembly in this engine so its very tight. My only worry is that the stock cam adjustments will be too much and I will loose power before I correct the ping. I assume youve tried most of what Im thinking about trying on this setup. Colder plugs, retarding cam, less mechanical advance, and richer mixture? Everything is telling me that this cam is just plain wrong for this setup with an automatic transmission and that I would be in much better shape with either a manual transmission or a different cam. Im thinking the timing curve change is only a band aid even though in theory it would fix the problem. The dual points was just how Nissan decided to address the issue of loading with their stock setup. Just my theory at the moment. I think more duration and overlap would correct the issue with this transmission loading. Im not good with cams though.

So what did all that "crap" cost? Is that T3? Those are the 3 things I need still. I have the camber plates, I just want all 4 control arms and the TC rods and I will be ready to rock with the suspenion.

Ive got a 72 wide body shell Im cutting up. Dont know if you make it to the west coast. $1000obo

The original motor had .009" more thickness on the head and was a stock L24 flat top engine with the same problem. My other L24's with the same setups do not ping. Ive been reading this and thinking: I wish I had an adjustable cam gear now just so I could experiment. Im going to also try and stick some colder plugs in it and cross my fingers they dont foul at idle.

Because I cant find good float components dammit! Oh and have you ever tried to salvage floats from those carbs? JEEZ what was the engineer thinking when they designed that pin with no way of getting at it from both sides? Guess they never considered where these carbs would be almost 40 years later. The owner of the car has stated he would be okay with putting premium in the tank, but that doesnt sit well with me. My L28 runs 87 with SU carbs and an N42 head and it does not suffer from knock at all even with a little more advance. strange.

There is no edit function for those old posts and my internet here no longer allows me to run dynamic DNS. IF you pull up one of the current pictures you will find a shared photobucket album though with all the old pictures buried in it. http://s81.beta.photobucket.com/user/rayaapp2/library/260ZR

Thanks for the tip! I will have to look and see if that could be an issue.

That's right! I had forgotten. And the points were setup so that one set is for retard if memory serves me! Toyota used the dual diaphragm vacuum units! That doesnt bode well for me though. I wonder what the 280ZX used with an automatic transmission. I may have to use something like that so we can stay away from points(this isnt my car or Id just find one of those distributors stick points back on it). Indeed it is the same distributor, wires, plugs, coil, etc used on both engines. The distributor cap has been on and off several times. Now Ive changed the whole distributor out and transferred the pertronix pickup to the new distributor and it still has the same issue. So it has to be the ignition timing coupled with the automatic transmission. If it were AFR Id have seen it on the wideband. I wish I could hook up a mobile 5 gas on the car. Put a wide band on any L24, L26, or L28 with stockish SU carbs... 13.8:1 is fantastic! Most are lucky to see 15 or even 16:1. If you can get it richer than 15:1 you have compromised your idle AFR so bad it will likely foul the plugs at idle esp on the larger L26 or L28 engines.

So Im working on a 73 240Z with a L28 and an automatic transmission. The L28(N42 dished pistons) has an E31 head, and the compression is low enough that it should be fine on pump gas. Interesting enough the car had a L24 with flat tops and the same top end being fed by the same stock SU carbs and had the same exact issue. So Im down to Fuel and timing. IF I pull timing back to 5* BTDC both engines still have heavy ping during loading in all 3 gears. I pulled the timing back on both to TDC and ran 91 octane(oh and the gas tank was boiled out between fuel change so not even a hint of 87 was in the tank for mixed octane). They both still had the same issue. Im not getting any funny AFR's indicating lean issues with the wideband hooked up now on the L28(In fact Im getting into the 13.8:1 range under heavy loads in top 2 gears which seems good on SU's with an L28). So Im suspecting a distributor timing issue. Did the 240Z's come with a retarding distributor when equipped with an automatic? The distributor that was on both engines had "12" weights(and are identical to some of the early('71ish) L24 distributors I have) and for giggles I disconnected the distributor advance, but Im really starting to suspect that I need a distributor capable of pulling timing back for the automatic transmission. I really dont feel this is a matter of high compression though I know some would jump straight to that. I would expect this kind of ping on SU's with something closer to 10:1. Thanks for your thoughts on this. Ray

NEW RB25DET bellhousing and associated parts to convert a VG tranny (clutch bearing, clutch lever, spring holder, sleeve) - $450 Z32TT tranny without a bellhousing $75

I prefer my Aircat NitroCat1200 to any of the equivilent IR's... except the new IR IQ20V which is on my christmas list. My shop had an incident with a Honda 3.5L V6 timing belt replacement. It was a warranty job and being such we had the finger pointed at us until we showed proof that all the fasteners associated with the timing belt and water pump were produced. Luckily we use one of those high end digital Snap On torque wrenches and the tech had the forsight to photograph each bolt being torqued to spec based on the installation proceedure handed to him. Why we ever needed to go that far is beyond me, but the manufacture of the timing kit bought the customer a new engine! As for this thread, Even the FSM can be wrong sometimes. An experienced tech might/might not have thought twice about 30ft/lbs on those bolts in the material they thread into. I would have believed something between 12-15lbs. Or if it was somehow 30ft/lbs then I would have expected steps/incriments. This is not to beat anyone down, but something to think about the next time someone encounters anything similar. If any of the bolts actually tightened down without stripping I would double check the threads in the head. They can be deformed or even compromised so that the next proper torqueing will result in failure!

Long time since I updated anything. 280YZ kit is almost done. John at Reaction Research has been awesome and worked up a custom air dam for me. The kit should be shipping out in the next few weeks. Im perplexed by what happened to the stock turbo in the car. I pulled it out tonight and found that the turbine is ok, but the compressor wheel has granaded! Im guessing the impact to the rear of the exhaust pushed the nylon wheel into the housing so that when I started the car after the acciedent to load it on the trailer the whole wheel just blew up! The GT3076R I have now will replace it until I get my hands on a nice GTX35R. I have a Tial 38mm wastegate for it as well. Ive decided to stick with the CXRacing top mount manifold as the Lovefab I have need a ton of work for it to fit in my car or even on the engine sadly. Ive also started aquiring TTT suspension components. I have the camber plates and the control arms are next. Ive not started buying brakes yet, but Ive got a plan for those. I dont know if it will be finished by MSA, but I hope I can pull that off. I need to put together a lot of fundage to finish this still. The LoveFab manifold that I wish would work but will require a lot of work EDIT: The old turbo came apart this morning. The compressor wheel looks as if it was jammed against the back of the housing from the wear marks. The bearings inside the turbo are wasted. The turbine snapped off its shaft as well. There isnt anything salvagable unless I can extract 2 of the broken bolts from the turbine housing as it isnt cracked like most. Its nice to have a good turbine housing with all the stock turbos Ive taken apart so far having cracks in those. I was able to save the wastegate actuator and that was about it. The rest of the turbo is a paperweight. Ive seen turbos go out, and its typically catostrophic, but man there is usually more salvagable parts. Now I have to start cleaning out my intercooler system and finding ALL the little peices. At least its only nylon so having that fly through the engine isnt to bad. Aluminum is far worse is my guess. Im thinking about flushing the intercooler with hot soapy water to try and back flush everything out. I wont be re-using the intercooler on this car again, but I want to use it, my down pipe, and my manifold on my the 910R project. Im still scratching my head as to how the acciedent caused the turbo to fail like this. Maybe the shaft was bent somehow in the impact and the imbalance shattered the compressor wheel. I dont know, buts its really a crappy way to take a turbo out that had less than 10K miles on it.

I have a GT35R knockoff single ball bearing turbo. Its brand new. Its definately no Garrett though. I have seen these knock off turbos before on RB25's, but I dont think they really compare to the genuine article. Im guessing its all in the tollerences, though I have to say they do well for something thats less than 1/10 the price. Based on compressor maps I really wanted to get the GTX3582R over the regular GT3582R. In the end for what I want to do with the car(which is a little track and a little street) I will be shooting for that GTXR3582R with one of the smaller A/R's(because Im using stock cams that drop off around 6800-6900rpm). For now I have these three other turbos. Out of the three Im guessing the GT3076R is probably going to be the best choice for me. Its ball bearing, and high quality so in theory it will take the abuse I give it and it should have a good spool time on the RB25. All three have a .63 turbine though. Now I have to figure out which manifold to run, because the best fitting manifold is also the cheapo China made one not the LoveFab I bought which I would prefer as its higher quality material.

FYI: Those turbines are upside down from stock manifolds...

Both doors are in the same condition. I can get more pictures if you want. Leon is closer to you than me. Id rather not ship them. Im only about 2 hours or so from Vacaville and I make trips up to sacramento often, but rarely in something that could carry more than one door. As far as price it would depend on what you wanted. Currently they are complete doors with very nice door panels. Say something like $175 for the pair complete. Car was a 1972 240Z.

I have a pair of rb26 manifolds. I suppose you are refering to physical space between the two manifolds? I have seen the stock manifolds ported out and larger turbos installed, but not to often. There is a ton of extra meat inside the port at the turbo flange. Im guessing its there to keep velocity up, but It apears to be one of the points where Nissan was trying to pull power back on these engines as far as I can tell. I ran across a Greddy or HKS display somewhere on the internet where they had fitted some larger Turbos on a mockup RB26 with stock manifolds. I use to save pictures like that, but my personal server crashed about a year ago and I have never gotten around to trying to recover that data... and I know I saved the pictures. I believe it was at one of the Japanese Car shows back around 2010ish that had the display. Sorry I know thats not much help.

Royal Lip Hyper Black I believe is the matching color. My current 2 say "RLYMH Black" as color. Here are the rim sizes Im looking for: 17x7.5 4x114.3 +20 17x8.5 4x114.3 +4 17x9 4x114.3 +13 all 73mm centers. These were the 3 listed on Rota's web site and I understand there are other "Z" offsets. IF you have one of the other offsets just let me know. Im really interested in knowing the backspacing in inches more anyway. Im not really which will fit the car best. Its for a stockish S30 rear with rolled fenders. The last one might be pushing it. If your not close Im in for covering the shipping and can paypal you payment. Ive been looking for a pair for about a year on and off and I havent been able to find the same color. Please PM me, Ill post back if I find a pair. Might be in for a set of 4 for the right price. Thanks Ray

Ive got a set of nice doors with a complete matching lock set. 93907 near 101.

I have 2 for sale, but Im in Ca.