rayaapp2

I have one as well. Will be in Sacramento around Dec 8th and I can bring it up there at that time unless you want to pick it up sooner near Salinas Ca 93907 PM me if your interested.

It appears its basically a Garrett GT3076R same specs as far as I can tell. Dual Ball bearing. I also have a GT3076(I believe as its untagged other than its stamped garrett) which is almost identical except it a thrust bearing style and the compressor side housing is slightly different in that the inlet is smaller but the compressor is identical.

Cylinder head is back and looks good. The total thickness of the head is now 106.9mm vs spec of 107.9mm. Im tossing the idea of 1mm tower shims. Thats what almost .040" of an inch missing. Im guessing I will need shims. Im going to forget about gasket crush at the moment and see what the cam timing looks like a little later tonight. I was hoping to spend my weekend assembling and installing the engine into the car, but if I have to order cam tower shims that puts me out another week.

Id be afraid of mixture differences between the #1/#6 and #4/#5 cylinders on the BRE manifold I have. It obviously works as a manifold, but equal length runners takes that extra bit of tuning out and allows a more precise afr mixture across the board. 2 cents on the four barrel manifolds. I actually have a BRE manifold for sale. Gollum we spoke about E85 the other day... This would be car number 2. converting almost all my cars to either bio or E85... yikes I have everything for my ignition but the mega jolt box. COP's, EDIS, crank trigger, etc. So I will be able to dial the timing in! Ive got a stack of core cams and I was thinking of sending one off to Isky for a re-grind. I have a set of Schneider valve springs too. Id like to keep the revs below 7500rpm. In honesty Id like to keep the revs down below 7000. A cam thats alive at 3500 and carries to 7000 would be great.

The car has an N42 L28 under the hood right now and I didnt want to pull it to build it since I am driving it. So I was trying to find a way to use the original L24 that I have in storage. Nothing really set in stone, this is still a "what if" kind of idea. Option "B" is the LD28 currently in my maxima so Im kinda tossing ideas all over the place trying to decide where I may go down the road with this car. I really like the idea of a soy powered turbo LD28. The last maxima I had and long ago my LD28 260Z both ran bio. A rod knock ended my 260Z Diesel project though and the RB replaced that.

Yeah thats what I started to think. Without a really nice fuel management system Id rather not mess with compression and a turbo like that. I was hoping to find a way to just use these pistons as is. The high compression is really what is stopping me to be honest. Id rather just order a set of custom slugs than modify an existing set for more than one reason. Another issue with FI and 13:1 compression is that Id have to find lead friendly injectors and Im not sure such a thing exists or is reasonable in cost though admittedly I have not done the research there.

I have 3 turbo swaps sitting in my garage to choose from and one of them has potential to be a monster L28et. I did consider using these pistons in one of my turbo builds. I figure Id keep one non-turbo L car though and 200hp at the wheels is all this car needs seeing as I have double that in both my other Z cars. I do have an EDIS 6 crank trigger setup and megasquirt v2.2 set aside for something. I bought those things for a car I no longer have. For an NA Id be worried about port work on the P90 to reach my power goals. Im not sure if it would be needed but Id guess it would. I have a mikuni manifold for the car Im thinking about doing this to.

We need an RB section FAQ sub forum. This thread needs to be pinned as a sticky!

Well after talking with the locals including Dave @ Robello it seems that 87.5mm is not impossible, but its where the cylinder walls begin to get a little thin. Im not building a stroker or a turbo out of this so I may have usable results. Id honestly be happy with anything near 200hp. Which seems reasonable after seeing all the L28's and a few L24's down at MSA pulling numbers close to and just above 200hp at the wheels. Im not sure just exploring the possiblity at the moment. I do have an n42 block I can play with which would be a better canadate.

With a std head gasket 13:1 compression with the L28 crank, L24 rods, and N42 head. 2mm HKS drops the compression to about 11:1 according to the engine calc. I can bet it was not designed for a stock head. So its a matter of which fits best or start playing with combustion chambers.

That was the best combination I could figure out as well. The N42 and which ever E88 head I have that is similar to the N42 seem to fit the dome the best. The E31 seems to be the worst fit and the P90 I looked at just for fun works, but would not suite me as I want to keep the car with carbs(well at least a triple manifold and some TWM TB's) Pics:

I have a set of random Arias pistons. I need to measure the dome volume, but my best guestimate is about 12cc's I have one L series 240Z left with 2 engines. The original L24 is out of the car and in storage. Im considering using these pistons in it. Mind you these are not purpose built pistons for my setup. They were designed from a sample piston for some old race car. They are brand new and sitting on a shelf. Bore 3.445" / 87.5mm pin height 35.56mm full floating pins dome approx 12cc's but need to verify 87.5mm bore is pushing the L24 as I understand it. I have L24 9mm rods and a full L28 rotating assembly to work with. I also have an array of cylinder heads to work with. E88, E31, and N42 carb castings. I have been playing around with the engine calculator a bit and Im not sure they will work well with what I have. I cannot for the life of me figure out what these pistons were designed for. Maybe it was a super high compression stroker engine? Im not real sure where Im going with this if anywhere at all since they were obviously designed for some other application, but Im open to ideas that I can pick up and roll with. I figure what else am I going to use them for. Originally I purchased them for an L28 I was building and ended up going a different direction after I realized the pin height wouldnt work out the way I wanted. Ray

Use the std OE Nissan turbo gasket for the T3 flange. Penetrating oil for the studs makes a huge difference. If you use something like PB blaster or WD40 it will only soak so far into the metal and stop. Maybe a few mm's. Heating PB with a propane torch is pointless. It will burn right off. GM heat valve lube or mopar equivilent will NOT burn off with the torch on it and it will penitrat deeper. Its designed to penetrate an exhaust manifold made of cast iron and break the steel butterfly in the exhaust loose even if it running and or HOT! Its getting harder to come by, but Ive used to to tear down turbos and exhaust manifolds for years with very good success. The only reason I ever use PB blaster is if someone gives me a can and its all I have. Ive tried many penetrating oils and the ones designed to be used on old exhaust heat valves are the very best for this kind of job. Breaking down those 200K+ mile T3 turbine shells is a royal pain, but this stuff gets the job done. Also another trick is to use "shock therapy" on the nuts. Hit them with a hammer straight down after applying lube and heat. Slowly work the studs back and forth on the way out to prevent damaging the threads inside the cast manifold. At least if you do this you can tell yourself you tried everything and there was nothing you could do in the case that your attempt fails. Sometimes thats just how it goes.

GM heat valve lubricant liberally applied, and propane torch to heat the manifold. double nut the studs and extract. You will want to replace these studs with a high quality fastener. Too soft and they will stretch, too hard and they will snap. Im an idiot and replace my exhaust fasteners with stainless. I never seem to have any issues with them seizing, stretching, or breaking though. The RB25 exhaust studs are the only ones I ever have issues with these days because I keep using Nissan studs. My L series engines even the turbos have not given me any problems with stainless. I go to the local hardware supply and purchase stainless bolts and machine the heads off.

For giggles install your MAF before the turbo... See what it does then. The ECU isnt calibrated to read the MAF there. Measuring at that point its gonna confuse the ECU for what it's tables are written for. Atmosphere pushes air volume past the MAF in front of the turbo. On the other side of the turbo the pressure/volume and flow characterists are completely different. Even if you get it running well that way its not gonna be right without proper programming of the ECU tables and any corrections that need to be made to prevent turbulence through the MAF... and turbos make turbulence... lots of it. Some MAF's can be placed in that kind of environment but not a hot wire style. Thats as far as I will go without getting into how the hot wire MAF works, why, and why it wont work that way... that has been answered many times Start there then experienment with other ideas before you proceed.

So Im looking at a GT3040 HKS turbo with T3 flange for my RB25. My biggest issue is that I cannot locate a compressor map to just do the math. So first off, anyone have a compressor map for one of these turbos? Second if anyone knows how do these GT3040 turbos compare with the GT35R. My personal preference is the GTX35R for my goals, but I already have a GT35R. From what I understand the compressor on the GT3040 is comparable to the GT35R but the turbine is closer to a GT30. Can anyone shed some light on the differences or possibly post up a compressor map for the HKS unit? Thanks Ray

If your a tall guy you may want to check that top bar. One of my cars has a roll cage with the bar about there and seat is restricted forward and its really not comfortable with a helmet.

Sweet! I could use those seats for my 260 and the 260Z seats can go in either this one or my orange car and the plastic racing buckets can be sold!

So I purchased a basket case 71 6 months ago. It was just in pieces. It took me about 3 months to assemble it and get it fired off. Here I am 6 months later and Ive finally sorted out the oil leaks, electrical, and most of the major issues. I had not lights, oil filter issues, oil leaks, belt alignment issues, exhaust(lack thereof), no brakes, no seats, and a lot of other major stops. I have long tube headers and had to relocate the oil filter. I spent a month scratching my head over an oil leak at the block oil adapter which turned out to be poor thread tapping. Now Im running Parker hydraulic oil lines with o-ring fittings. My balancer had a speedee sleeve on it so I replaced the balancer and seal on the timing cover. The carb had to be cleaned as well. I ended up cracking the secondaries on my Holley to get a good idle without un-covering the transition slots on the primaries. The intake manifold gasket was replaced as it was leaking in the back. I finally tracked down the correct v belt. I purchased a universal speedo cable from napa and installed that as well. I went from competition open headers to 3" exhaust all the way to the back. I may add a resonator later to quiet it down a bit. The lighing wiring was a nightmare, but I sorted that out and now have turn signals and both headlights come on now without blowing the fuses. Im still un-happy with my fuel pump and 3/8" fuel line but I replace that in the near future. I still need to add a fire extinguisher inside the car, but its finally up for some drive time. I have plans to get a quiet gear drive, roller rockers, larger carb(probably a 750 Holley double pumper), and I want to get a more reliable fuel pump. Im exited that one of my 3 Z cars is making progress. Pics of first arrival and some of the exhaust. Will post more later.

The biggest setback for me is the front axle position. I dont like how it dictates position of the engine in the chassis. Moving the suspension and the front differential forward so its configured for the Z is probably the hardest part for me. Tube chassis the car and use one of those FRP fiberglass shells. Of course Id start with a rusted clean titled donor vin. But Im in California. I already have the car I want to do it to. Ive wanted to do it for years.

Whats the operating RPM range of the two engines you are comparing?

Ive thought of it, and Im assuming its not that much harder than converting a Z. Id assume a rack from another Nissan LHD model would work or that one could be adapted from a Subaru. I would make a bet though that the 240sx rack is a bolt in seeing as the cross members swap back and forth for the RB swap into the 240sx. Ray

Got a set of 40 Webers on a new polished cannon intake manifold. Carbs came off a running car but have been sitting in a box for years in my garage. K&N filters and Velocity stacks included. Im just down the road from Watsonville. $1200

Schroeders in Seaside Ca.

Ive had a 102 fever for about 24hours so my brain is a little fuzzy, but I dont see why you cant change LSA with a re-grind. Id talk to ron or BRAAP about lash pads. Some searching for lash pads on this site may help you. I could be wrong, but I dont see why they cant. If memory serves me correctly some cam towers are offset a little more, but I could be thinking of something else, but if thats true then that would play a role in lash adjustment as well as it adjusts the wipe pattern. Anyway Ill get off the computer now in case Im spouting non-sense. Ray