rayaapp2

This website has been around for what 10 years? "Nissan used press-in plugs to seal the front and rear main oil galleries. I'm using a higher pressure turbo oil pump, therefore, I opted to remove them by using a slide hammer, and drilling and tapping the hole to accept a standard threaded plug. When installed with Lock-tight, it will eliminate the possibility of blowing out a plug and loosing oil pressure under extreme conditions. This needs to be done prior to the machine work so all the metal shavings are removed during the cleaning process. NOTE The front plug will need to be shortened so that it doesn't close off the # 1 main bearing oil passage and, at the same time, it will fit flush with the front face of the block." I dont think this is the same as what Tony recommended but you get the idea.

Why bother running a stock when a re-grind is SO inexpensive? I mean most good places charge $100 and shipping. Best advice I was ever given was to call Ron at Isky. Id say do the same before making any purchase. I do not know anything about the comp cam. But I bet Ron answers every question you have. Ray

Apparently this kind of work on these heads is common for him. He already knew what rod he needed to work with. Im very thankful to have local machinists that know what an L-series is and still work on them! I will post back with the results.

The local Machine shop that works on Datsun L series all the time(4 in there at the moment too) quoted me $125 to gouge out the whole area and fill it back in. Another $80 to re-drill and surface it. Sounds like a hell of deal to me. I did have a good look at all the other passages and they all have plenty of meat left in them strangely. It must have just been a badly cast area or something along those lines. Thanks for all the input, Ray

hmm, Ill have a closer look at the head and see if I can find any other hidden flaws. Your probably right. I do like my idea of sleeving the bore for the bolt though. A stainless sleeve would do the job nicely. Im going to take the head back into the machine shop and see what he says. He works on a lot of Datsun engines so he may have an idea or two as well.

So I just had a head cleaned and surfaced and Ive found that the front right head bolt near the coolant passage has corrosion that has broke through to the head bolt passage. Its been that way for a while, but now Im worried it wont seal now that Ive disturbed it by cleaning it. The passage will definitely fill with coolant now. I think that area can be drilled and a competent tig welder could in theory fill it back up so that it could be re-drilled and re-surfaced. Im worried though that if I go that route with a repair that the head will not be repairable. If I leave it as is Im worried the coolant system could loose pressure at that head bolt passage or in the least corrode the head bolt. Another option I guess would be to drill the bolt passage and press a sleeve into it as a band aid. The coolant passage has corroded through about .75" up the hole from the gasket surface. Ray

A good fabricator could push that front diff all the way forward too... which would be fantastic. BTW, Ive watch most of Jay's Videos. I wish I had known about it when I lived in Rancho Cordova. My wife worked out at Mather Air Field. I know that whole area pretty well. I wish I could have seen it in person.

Either way if it has an issue down the road Im not going to be supported by them. If I take the $50, They will ignore me. If I leave it as is Im sure they will ignore me. At least I have access to a tig. I just didnt have the extra change and still dont to buy the more expensive one, and Im not really convinced that the more expensive one would have been much better quality seeing as they are both manufactured in CHINA! If I had known my radiator was gonna have a failure I could have at least planned to have the cash set aside, but it was a surprise after I had already made a few purchases this month. I mean it wasnt like the radiator was rotten or anything, it actually only had about 10K miles on it. Just because its cheap doesnt mean it should be low quality. Sometimes you can buy good wine for $15.00, right? If all you got is $15 extra for wine after groceries... make the best choice you can. Thats a good idea. Im still un-decided on how I will proceed. I may just ignore their request. I think id be okay with changing my feedback if they had a warning on their add. A simple warning that modifications may be necessary. At least then its expected. It would be nice to have the refund(if its a legit refund) for the effort I had to put into installing it beyond the simple bolt in, but then I doubt they will offer that discount to the next joe that has the same issue which I would have a problem with esp being as the next joe could be someone I know from the zcar community.

So last week my DD 72 240Z tossed the fan into the radiator. I think I need some engine mounts and a shroud so I can stop using spacers on the radiator support(but that is another story). So I went on ebay and found 2 very common aluminum replacements. The price difference is about $60 or so between the two. The more expensive one appears to be the same one MSA sells. Im penny pinching right now but I did not want to use one of the old used ones I had laying around and find out it might be an issue on my way to and from work. So I purchased the cheaper ebay unit. Ebay Item# 261007900592 So I get this radiator a week after I hit buy. I pull it out and it looks great! The only thing I noticed is that the top tank was not perfectly symmetrical which tells me a little about the assembly process, but no big deal at all. I have several chassis around the house as some know. 1971, 1972, 1974(early), and 1975 to compare with. I ran into 2 issues. The first issue required cutting of the mounting tabs to get it to fit inbetween the frame rails. I just notched them 1/2 on both sides until they slide into the frame rails and I saw the mounting holes line up... kind of. Second issue was the mounting holes. One side was dead on. The other side was 1/2" off! The mounting tabs are setup with mounted nuts so its NOT adjustable. The bolt holes were spaced correctly vertically, but the measurement horizontally is off by 1/2 and inch! This leaves you with 2 options. Option A. remove the tig welded nuts from the radiator mounting tabs. Option B. Drill slots into your radiator support! As a side note the radiator cap mount is really nice, but its not the original cap size and the new cap comes in two styles at the parts suppliers. The Radiator comes with the cap, but when you go to replace it you will need the old one to match it or you may get the one that is to long. So directly after installing my new radiator I went onto ebay and decided I wasnt gonna **** around and I just left my feedback. Neutral "Did not bolt into car. slight triming and drilling required of mounting plates." So the next day I get a message from the seller: "so sorry to trouble you,i see your leave feedback,could you tell me what is wrong.if i could do something for you,then if could you pls change the feedback for me,thanks. regards - coolingsuper" _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ >>From ME coolingsuperï¼Œæ‚¨å¥½ï¼ I have 1971 240z, 1972 240z, 1974 260Z(early), and a 1975 280Z. The mounting tabs on this radiator will fit none of these cars. First the bottom of the mounting tabs had to be notched to clear the frame rails. Then the bolt holes that are on the mounting tabs are not lined up with the holes on the radiator support on any of my cars. So I was forced to drill my radiator support and slot the old mounting holes by 2cm total horizontally. Once that was all modified it fit into the car I realized this radiator is the wrong size for a 1975 or later as they have a taller height. This was not an issue for me, but you have the radiator listed for 1975 vehicles. Late 74 vehicles (9/74) on will also be in the same group as 75 here in the states. It was a lot of cutting and drilling for a bolt in radiator when I could have bought one that does bolt in for $40 more. I dont think there is anything you can do to change my feedback other than to modify your radiators to actually fit early S30 chassis and properly advertise the models they fit so it doesnt happen again. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ >>Here is the most entertaining response I have received from an ebay seller ever to date: "i'm realy so sorry for you,i could refudn to you $50 ,is ok,so pls change the feedback for me,thanks. regards" Im tempted to take their money and leave the message and just change it from neutral to positive, but then I still feel like I have some moral obligation to the Zcar community to leave it.

You can watch the AFR sensors with a multimeter, but its still best to be able to graph it as a multimeter samples to slow for an accurate reading. You should be able to attain idle values that way, but dont bother doing any loading samples. You can get an AFR/wideband setup with a gauge.

Oh that looks like fun... I have a GT35 knockoff and a GT30R to choose from at the moment. My compressor housing looks to be in about the same spot. I may have to employ some spacers on the engine mounts to un-tilt it a little. Ive already massaged the passenger side inner fender well for the intercooler piping and TB. Whats a little more.

I dont think it needs to be said that you and Jeff are also a bit sick/twisted... but there you have it. Ill agree with ideal, but I guess Im also sick. Other than aircraft and a few twisted folk you only really see this kind of sick being used by the professional racers... that need and want every last .25 pony and inch pound of torque from their machines.

I have discovered something! The Lovefab manifold I have has bolt patterns for both the RB25 and RB26 exhaust studs. The RB26 studs as most know are a smaller diameter. The love fab fits those studs almost perfect. The only issue now is that the manifold still does not clear the coolant passage on the block until I get my grinder out. I dont plan on running the RB26 head for some time so thats a bummer. Anyway those are my updated findings.

Oh your sick! EGT monitoring would be the way to go, but complete overkill.

Placing a bung on either stream is a cool idea. A multimeter might not be able to give you an accurate reading. Use a graphing meter if possible! That is trumped by the fact though that a simple O2 is not accurate. It does not tell you how lean or how rich you are, only that your in the window of things sort to speak. Buy yourself a wideband. An LC1 or what ever brand, with some kind of output you can watch and record if need be via laptop or whatever. Buy one you have to calibrate. Buy the cheapo 02 bung caps so you can switch back and forth between both and cap them when your done so the wideband does not get damaged over time sitting in the exhaust stream. Buying 2 widebands would be cool, but costly. I would agree with john about the buying the "book about performance tuning SU carbs". All you really need is 1 though and measuring all 6 at once in a single pipe. Symmetry is the key to dealing with these carbs. All things being equal and all. Any anomalies in the separated streams would be chalked up to engine integrity at that point. You must be prepared to be ultra anal on your adjustments... and believe me it can and is done.

VOTE FOR STICKY!

Its a start. Ive been planning something like this for my 260Z for years. I havent run across the right deal on a front clip yet though. The AWD posting thats been active lately had a link to a japanese website. I tossed the link into google and let them translate most of it. I think for the most part the guy behind that has the idea. Use the Skyline chassis for the main structure and use the S30 as the skin, though I wouldnt have cut away as much of the car as that guy did. I would have left most of the S30 firewall and transmission tunnel intact. Ive debated using the rear cross member from the same car as I have access to those, but no rear frame which would pose the problem of dealing with geometry. Using the T3 R230 sounds like a good alternative.

My car is fuel injected and it will be easier to relocate the fill neck with my new fenders so that is my main reasoning for going with a fuel cell. Id just like to pick the right one. I do have concerns about getting a plain aluminum tank and having it split in an accident. Same with a plastic tank. Id feel safer with a bladder cell for sure. I guess the question Id have to ask is that really a risk with those type of cells? I guess for piece of mind the FIA FT3 rated cells would be the way to go. I already spent 13 days in an ICU Burn Ward with 2nd and 3rd degree burns on 20% of my body. So I can attest to the burning to death sucking part. And I was only on fire for like 30 seconds! I think burning mostly to death and surviving would be the scary part if you ask me... Living through the following year and rehabilitation is pure torture! Anyway to be safe maybe it is worth the extra few hundred bucks for piece of mind. Sure beats that $25K life flight to say nothing of the hospital bills! Thanks John!

I am on the search for new head bolts. I just tore down an engine and I consider myself lucky none of the bolts broke! I went searching for some FelPro head bolts as those are usually what I get my hands on at work. Would you believe I cannot find a listing? Mind you I went straight for the L28et head bolts circa '81-'83. I did not search for stock L24 head bolts, but that is next I suppose. When I couldnt find FelPro bolt kits, I searched for anything. Ive come up empty handed. I will call the dealer tomorrow, but I suspect Nissan wont have them seeing as I cant even get exhaust fasteners for a mid 90's KA. And the alternative was like $5 a bolt! So if they do have them Im sure Im looking at spending more than I want to. I will look into it, but Im here to ask if anyone has a part number or source I can look into for NEW head bolts. I use to have a stack of used ones. I finally recycled them as I never had the need. I hate it when that happens. Thank you Ray

I have decided to go with a 16-22 gal fuel cell. Id prefer one with a sump of some sort and internal foam. The car is not a track specific car, but Id like to be able to possibly compete for fun at certain events. I do not want to be limited on what events I can use the car at though(strictly because of my fuel cell choice), so Id like to understand what kind of events might restrict fuel cell usage. I have heard and done a little research on FIA FT3 approved tanks. I dont know if I will need one though. If I do Ill likely choose a Fuel Safe Enduro Cell, but is that really what I need? Its a large price difference and if Ill never need it there is no point. Id obviously like to be as safe as possible. A roll over valve will be utilized with any choice for sure(and hopefully never needed). I plan on relocating the filler cap behind the license plate. I have seen some vintage cars relocate the filler caps without an issue with inspection. Id plan on using an OE cap from a 280zx behind which with a re-locator kit will adapt over with minimal effort. I have been looking at aluminum tanks, Plastic tanks, and the metal bladder cells. With so many choices Im just confused as to what is the safest, most effective choice I can make and what regulations will allow. Like I said Im not building a track car, but I may go out to a track day, compete in autocross, or vintage racing at some point. The car isnt a daily driver car either. Its more of a weekend toy at this point that Id like to play with out on the track in what ever events I can qualify for. Thanks Hybridz Ray

The 4 wire tach is an inductive pickup with the ignition wire from the key going through it on its way to the coil. I think the signal can be boosted like the 3 wire, but Im not sure. Possibly put the booster on the ground side? I never use that type of tach so Im only guessing, but I have had to repair stock 240Z 4 wire tachs when they dont work (like when someone wires their coil up wrong)so I know the circuit and basis of how it works.

I am not a tig guy, but I wouldnt try tig welding these manifolds unless you knew someone you could trust to get it done right. The material itself is low quality. There are lots of folks on here that just check the mating surface and slap it on. I would suggest the same. I have a real GReddy and an ISIS. The gains in welding those to port match or even gasket match are not much unless you are going to shoot for a serious race build. The most I did was clean up (grind down) the casting inside runners, and the plenum. I didnt bother messing with the gasket areas much. Just my 2cents worth.

Temp sensor part number 25080-89903 NISSAN The tach is a bit more in depth. You will have to find a resistor and use a power pullup to amplify the tach signal enough to run the stock tach if you have a 3 wire tach. If you have a 4 wire tach I cannot help you as I am not an electrical engineer and I stumbled across the power pull up wiring by accident. My resistor is a 194 light bulb... If this sounds complicated search a bit then start asking questions. Both of these questions have been covered extensively on this board and its even in the sticky above this post by Chris Rummel. Ray

I bought something similar not long ago. $3400. -RB30 short block (block hot tanked, magnafluxed), NEW timing belt -RB26 head with covers, intake manifold (plenum, throttle bodies, throttle linkage, etc.), coilpacks, fuel rail, fuel injectors -RB25DE head with cams, covers, valves, head bolts, intake (with throttle body) and exhaust manifold (stock N/A and stock RB25 turbo manifold), injector harness, power steering pulley -NEW RB25DE gasket kit (need to look for it) -NEW Jun crank collar -NEW timing belt tensioner and idler pulley (to be used for RB30 DOHC conversion) -NEW RB25DET bellhousing and associated parts to convert a VG tranny (slave cylinder, clutch bearing, clutch lever, spring holder, sleeve) -Z32TT transmission x2 -NEW JSK Wilwood rear rotor hats and caliper brackets for 240z -NEW SSAC Intercooler (24"x12"x4"..600mm X 300mm x 100mm) -NEW SSAC 60mm wastegate -NEW SSAC 50mm BOV Not too bad with all the extra bits in there Id say. Start pricing out all the pieces, your probably getting a pretty good deal. Thats usually how I determine if Ive got a good price.

Why cant I be that lucky when crap hits the fan! Glad the damage was minimal and your alright Frank. Got my fix of destruction and mayhem for the week! Ray