rayaapp2

You can run without it on the Series 1 and 2. At least Ive been able to run those with no ill effects. I had the stock one on my Series 2 and did not notice a difference with it connected or disconnected. The NEO is a different animal though in a lot of ways and Im not sure, but Id say this might be one of those differences. I cannot find any pictures of that solenoid on the net for the NEO motor. I do have a Profec B spec II ready to go though. The stock controller though I believe is a fine tuning device not what actually controls ultimate boost pressure. Sort of a spike preventer. Just my guessing from what Ive seen of these motors.

IN THE FAQ SECTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My computer had an issue. I hit refresh cause I had some unknown error message on my screen and it double posted this. Sorry. Mods, please delete this. Thanks Ray

I know the engine will run without this item. I dont know exactly what it does except maybe prevent overboost. Im just guessing here. I am planning on running the engine stock and incorporating all that I can. Even the Purge control and carbon canister. Well, My engine is missing the boost control solenoid completely. It was cut from the harness. So I am on the hunt for one. Does anyone know if the boost control solenoid is the same solenoid used on the Series 1 or 2 engines? A lot of the NEO 6 stuff seems to unique so Im worried that this part is as well and there are so few of them out here state side Im not very hopeful I will get an answer as Im sure most of us here just delete such things. Ray

I know the engine will run without this item. I dont know exactly what it does except maybe prevent overboost. Im just guessing here. I am planning on running the engine stock and incorporating all that I can. Even the Purge control and carbon canister. Well, My engine is missing the boost control solenoid completely. It was cut from the harness. So I am on the hunt for one. Does anyone know if the boost control solenoid is the same solenoid used on the Series 1 or 2 engines? A lot of the NEO 6 stuff seems to unique so Im worried that this part is as well and there are so few of them out here state side Im not very hopeful I will get an answer as Im sure most of us here just delete such things. Ray

he offered me one for $50. lmk. it would ship to.me with my parts then i could ship it out to you. i dont know how long it would take round trip

Check out the connector on that one. That particular one has a Bosch style connector on it. You original post shows the rounded Nissan connector like my 94 S2 RB25. That sucks about the cam guide for the CAS. That has happened to a few people I know. Im always careful when removnig and re-installing the CAS, but Im sure it doesnt take much for that tab to snap off. Are you running stock cams? I did seem to think you still were? I may have a spare exhaust cam around somewhere. Ill have to dig for it. I know I have 2 complete sets and one random cam. I think its the exhaust. I have no idea why I would have the intake. EDIT: found it. Its an exhaust. LMK if you need it. I think you can run without it, but?

Have you emailed Venus Auto? I was just in there and he has a stack of parts motors at the moment. I think there are 3 different options. I dont know if they all interchange(I think they do but not positive). I have 3 different ones at least. The ones I have came off of 93, 94, and 99 RB25det engines. Ive heard that some of the earlier style aluminum CAS's do not come apart and some do and they can be identified by the center holes on the front? One has a rubber insert, and one has an aluminum insert, and the 99 NEO is an all plastic cover from what I can tell. Wish I could tell you which came apart for sure, but I think now you know which ever yours was might have been the one that doesnt come apart? I might be able to help you with the CAS if you want to deal with Venus Auto indirectly. He is suppose to be sending out some parts to me very soon and if you have ever dealt with him before then this offer would make sense. He might be willing to give me a good price on one. Ray

hmm, The Greddy intake accepts the stock rails Ive seen. The Freddy does too! As far as what kind of fuel system, hopefully this is a case of you dont have the motor in front of you. All the RB25's Ive seen so far are return style. Ive seen motors up through 1999.

well the wagon is a H190 from what I can tell so its not the IRS like the sedan. So the M30 rear control arms wont work. I think Im going to try and stick with the 4 lugs unless I have to go five in the front for brake options in which case Ill probably drill the rears. The front struts are mostly the same as 280zx but the ball joint is the different enough that they will not bolt back and forth. If you have a 280zx control arm maybe see if that fits the maxima. If it does I can just find a set around here and use the front 280zxt struts I have already, then brake options open up. As for the driveshaft I dont yet know for sure, but Im guessing its the same as the rb20 manual yoke I have already. I believe its a direct fit for the manual trans, but it wont work with the automatic. The stock wagon is a single piece driveshaft. If I can find the manual conversion bits before I get to the swap then I dont have to do anything to the driveshaft. It basically bolts in with the RB20 mounts I picked up. My only need for fabrication at that point is the turbo downpipe which will hit the steering shaft. Ill check out the aussiebluebirds site and see whats up. I stripped out the harness on the NEO6 yesterday and labeled most of the wires. I had a hard time finding the wiring schematics, and the ones I did find from the FSM do not label wire colors. So I had to trace everything from the ECU pins. I did find I am missing a few ends to make this run. Well at least run and be complete. I did not know the NEO6 is a LEV motor! Im missing the boost sensor and boost control solenoid. So Im hunting those down right now. The MAF harness was cut so I have to repair that. Luckily I keep Nissan harnesses around when they are cut up for parts so I have the connector! The only part thats gonna set me back on the engine right now is the fuel rail. The feed line is bent and snapped off. Im going to take it into work and try and get it brazed but Im worried that since its not a clean break Ill end up getting a bad seal or possible getting brass filler into the tube causing a small restriction. Why did NEO engines have to have a one off fuel rail? Other than some of the weird wiring and other NEO only bits I like this motor a lot more than the S2 in my 260Z. For one it has solid lifters not hydraulic so buying an off the shelf performance cam is easy. I need to check but there is a rumor these engines had an oil pump collar installed from the factory and a better oil pump. The ign coils are also NEO only so Im hoping they are better than the previous S1 and S2 coils that always end up failing. Im not sure what I will do if these coils give me the same issues as the S2 did. Thats all for now Ray

Thanks for the S12 tip! Ill see if I can find one in the junk yard! That would simplify my swap a ton! Wiring up an auto trans from a 99 isnt bad, but there are a ton of wires to run, and the driveshaft has to be modified! Z31 wheels? Maybe. Im probably gonna go with a set of 16" Enkei's a local member has stored away. I wish my 15" enkeis hadnt been mutalated on my 260z when it was hit. I was gonna save them for the next project when I put the expensive wheels on it. oh well. 225/50R15 would have been great. Ill have to hunt for something similar in 16" now. Any tips on brakes? The rears are getting calipers and rotors and I already have most of that from a 200sx. The front though needs addressed. The stock brakes are barely adequate with the diesel. The car has a brand new brake system on it. The PO replaced everything but the lines, though they messed up one of the shims on the right front wheel and the pads make noise once in a while now. The fronts appear to be pretty much the same as 280ZXT, but spaced differently. That is the piston size and pad size appear to be very close. There isnt much on the 2 forums I know of that is helpful in upgrading the brake system. Nothing appears to bolt over or even be remotely adaptable because of the spacing. I wish the 280zxt front struts would mate to the Maxima control arms. I dont have a set of 280zxt control arms left or I would have tried to fit those as well and ran the whole ZX front struts. There are brake options for those.

Motor is here, I need a few bits to get it going still. On the list of needed parts are: Fuel pump driveshaft for the automatic transmission, apparently the RB20 and RB25 manual transmission have a different driveshaft, but the automatic transmissions from these is also different and will not work with either manual gear box options. radiator hoses Boost control solenoid New fuel rail as the one on the motor is damaged PS line adapters custom turbo downpipe custom exhaust and a universal throttle cable My list will probably grow, but I think that most of it for now to get me running. I already have Profec B II ready to go in. I also have a Freddy manifold, 6SR stock manifold replacement, apexi filter, HKS turbo intake, and a N1 water pump. I plan on running it mostly stock for now, but Ill likely use a Synapse BOV, bigger intercooler, and some other things later like I did on my 260ZR build as money permits.

sigh... I would think youd be able to figure that one out Gollum. Grounded through the exhaust system... single wire O2 sensor. Did you ever check the ground or verify the sensor was even a good sensor and not totally biased lean. You know about the propane enrichment test correct? Ill explain it through PM if you dont. Your smog tech buddy should be able to explain it as well. The only FUBAR part of the 280zx ECCS is the stupid VAFM well and maybe the old Bosch connectors. You should already know the purpose of the 02 sensor in that system too. Mr Blame Smog... lol Next youll tell me Im running my AIR system and AB valve on my 240Z because I care about the environment. humpf.

If you think you have air in the system try this. Grab an empty/used brake fluid container. drill a hole in the bottom. Install a wheel valve stem seal in the hole(I use the ones with the rubber grommet and a lock nut for old mags). Find an appropriately sized rubber gasket to go around the neck of the container(HELP section PCV grommets at parts store may work). Get your tire air chuck ready. Fill your brake reservoir to the top. Open the rear left or right bleed screw with some kind of appropriate catch. Place the homemade brake container over the full reservoir making sure the seal fits very well. Hold the container FIRMLY to the reservoir and apply low pressure to the valve stem on the top. DO NOT EXCEED 5psi or so or you will have a mess on your hands. 1 psi is actually plenty of pressure for this. Continue to hold the pressurized container over the reservoir until the pressure starts to bleed off or you can see your reservoir getting low. Home-made pressure bleeder. Yes Ive done this. Yes its a permanent tool in my arsenal now and it sure beats having to pay $300 for the kit that still wont fit a Datsun reservoir. I also have a MityVac professional use vacuum bleeder and the pressure bleeder I built is still preferred on my Datsuns. Something about these cars makes it extra hard to properly bleed the system as air gets trapped and the fluid goes right past a bubble. A pressure bleeder will force the bubbles out though... I dont know why, but it just does. In the very least maybe this will give you a chuckle. Ray

The front sway bar and a/c tensioner may or may not interfere. It depends on your mounts. I have Rick Wong mounts and the adjust nut rubs the sway bar when its being loaded in a corner. Installing some 1/2" spacers on the sway bar mounts solves the problem, but if your really using the sway bar you may have to correct geometry of the sway bar by shortening the endlink mounts to the control arms. Aftermarket end links have a tube that can be shortened to resolve this. Its a geometry issue not a fitment issue with the endlinks. You will need to tie a signal wire from your A/C relay(low current side) into the wire that goes to the ecu so your ECU knows when to kick the idle up. Make sure your IAC is correctly adjusted as per the FSM for the skylines and it will work properly. Its a bit of wiring engineering to get it sorted out. Mine is wired up in my 260Z. The only reason it isnt working is I need 2 custom lines made for the A/C pump and my car was hit in Feb which has set me back significantly on all the little things. As far as the radiator goes it has been covered extensively here in this section. My preference has been the PRC option with the $40 Hayden fan controller and ebay $60 electric fan.

This may be an anomoly Ive run across, but I have 3 sets of Suspension Technique Lowering Springs all for S30's. They seem to be color coded. Maybe they are maybe they are not. The Yellows and the Blues, seem to be about the same stiffness and height. The Yellows may be slightly softer its hard to tell. The Blacks though are ridged! They are stiffer than my Cosmo EVOII racing coil overs on my 260Z! All other components being the same. Energy suspension bushings and Illumina shocks being my main comparisons. The Yellows lower the car but seem to retain a close to stock ride(almost plush). The blues might be 280Z as they lower the car but the front sits slightly higher than Id expect. The ride is slightly stiffer than stock. The Blacks though are the stiffest riding on rails springs I have ever had in a Z. All three sets still have their Suspension Technique stickers intact so Im fairly positive they are in fact correctly branded. All three also seem to lower the cars about the same amount. I initially thought maybe the color was just a bling factor. Anyone else run into this? I also have a set of Yellow Suspension Technique lowering springs from a 280ZXT Id like to find the spring rates on. Suspension Technique doesnt seem to list anything.

LOL why does everyone forget about the O2 sensor! The L28et system has a single wire o2 sensor that uses the exhaust as the ground. The Z31 models had a HO2S with 3 wires and second ground through the exhaust pipe... Steel the HO2S wire harness from the donor Z31. Also early and late Z31's have Zirconia or Titania sensors which correspond to the ECU. Make sure it all matches when your pickin and note the production date on the donor just in case(I write it on the ECU). Ive contemplated using the RB25 harness, injectors, and a few other sensors on the L series. One particular setup I have would be a great platform for this. Id run the Apexi PowerFC though for full programming with the FC-HAKO or FC-Datalogit. Its a lot of money, but in the end its still cheaper than full stand alone components and I already have most of the components in bulk laying around. But the engine I have should be good for the better part of 500hp. My biggest problem is that I already have MS and EDIS and no cars currently that would be worth putting it all into. BTW its KTM's old L28 bottom end. Anyway, now returning to your regularly scheduled postings.

Adjustable Cam Gear and your problem is solved. Compression should not be an issue with any stock USA spec L series ECU. The only issue you may have is emissions, but Im not savvy with emissions regs in Tx. or if they have any.

REALLY? Exactly what is that gonna do? ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Try playing with the AFM arm at the stumble and see if opening it up or closing it more helps. I would suspect there is a worn spot on the carbon trace in the AFM that is causing both issues. Kind of like when you get an old TPS sensor and there is a dead spot from like cruising and constantly modulating throttle pedal focused on one small particular spot. Id say its time to follow the FSM AFM test procedures.

So Ive purchased a new project. Or rather traded my 95 BMW 525i for an 82 910 diesel. Im a little crazy so that should shed light on that trade. The wagon has to be the cleanest 82 Maxi I have ever seen. Nice light blue paint and good interior. The LD28 still runs strong and is getting about 40mpg! I have several L28et's I could choice from to swap in, but I think it would be easier to start with something that is already a front sump. The RB20det was my first choice as it practically bolts in, but Ive sourced an RB25 NEO6 for the same price with an RB20 trans. I was thinking about trying to find the autobox for the RB as the Maxima is currently an automatic like most diesel Maximas and the swap would be simplified, but the manual trans for the RB20 is abundant in these parts. The LD is going to be pulled and saved for a 240Z project in the distant future when my L28 gives up the ghost. I already have a few turbo manifolds and several turbos to choose from when that day comes. For now though Im going to start making a hybrid910 which I am calling as the title states 910R. I plan on picking the motor up next saturday if all works out. If I can get some answers from the Maxima forums I plan on starting the suspension first, followed by the brakes, and then the engine swap which is the opposite of what I did with my 260ZR. I saved some lowering springs from a 1983 280zxt and brand new shocks from that car that Im hoping will fit the maxima, but Im not sure yet. I think some helper springs and lowering blocks aught to take care of the rear end. Wish me luck Ill post as make progress. Ray EDIT: Couldnt help myself. Installed the front lowering springs already. Dropped the front about 2.5"! and I havent even settled them out yet.

SWEET! I know Ive seen that picture somewhere before. I dont know why I could not find it the other day.

Droid based frequency finder! equals AWESOMENESS!

I searched a bit and came up empty handed. I have noticed that some 5spds have the speedo cog retainer tab mounted on top and some have the tab mounted on the bottom. Im hoping this is an indication of the years they may have come from. I have 4 5spds right now and Im trying to figure out which ones I can let go of and which ones I should keep as spares for my current cars. Any insight? Maybe there is another way to figure out which is which? Thanks guys Ray

I have the whole front clip cut in front of the firewall from a 72. Id let it go for scrap steel prices. The bad news is that I am in California near Monterey Bay.

1972 240Z with Z31 R200/280Z mounts. Bushings are Delrin all around. I have two suspicions. The bushings on the inner LCA are badly worn and I can visually see toe in and neg camber at the rear tires. Im sure there is some play. The car has a 350SBC. Sadly my Speedo does not work, but I guess around 60-70mph I get a vibration that oscillates and continues into a full vibration by about 75mph. Its rattling stuff loose everywhere. If its not those bushings Im going to be left looking at the driveshaft. Has anyone experienced something like this and found worn LCA bushings to be the fix? Im fixing them this weekend, but I do not want to have to send the driveshaft out last minute to be rebalanced and hope that fixes it. Im planning on driving the car in just over a week for a three hour trip.