Flexicoker

Since road surfaces are not perfectly flat, and tires are not perfectly hard, tire material gets squished(technical term) into the voids, and the road surface peaks get forced into the tire. This means there is a shear force as well as a friction force created whenever there is a slip angle/ratio.

This is driving me crazy, I've check alled of the .ini's in the tunerstudio and megatune folders, and all of them have: # set X_TAU_VISIBLE I've even tried removing the if-statement so it appears like the other menu items in that part of the .ini, but for some reason the X-Tau Usage option does not appear under fuel>general in tunerstudio. It shows up just fine in megatune, but I don't want to have to switch back and forth between megatune and tunerstudio when I want to turn off x-tau. Any ideas?

Based on the wording of the quote you posted, I'm willing to bet that that guy was just reposting rumors he's heard. Aluminum and magnesium both have a finite fatigue life. So if the wheels are old, and you're planning on racing with them, then it wouldn't be a bad idea to get them dye penetrant tested (same thing would go for an aluminum wheel). If they look good (not corroded or visible cracks) and you're using them on the street, then just run them. They are more susceptible to corrosion than aluminum, so they should be coated with something if they're not already.

Okay I got the Bosch 910 in today. It is dead silent. It wasn't a straight replacement for the Walbro, its got a ~5/8" barbed inlet that I needed to make an adapter for, and is bigger than the Walbro, but well worth it in my opinion. I paid $150 for it from the Poor Boy Parts ebay store. Even got a Bosch hat!!! I doubt I will ever buy another Walbro pump, from the day I installed it that thing was louder than the exhaust at idle and cruising around.

Have you cleaned the injectors? You need to open the injector (I think megasquirt has an injector test thing) and then spray B-12 chemtool through the injector backwards and forwards.

Cool, I'm going to try and make it. Its pretty close to my house!

Having sat down and talked with Danny Nowlan, I can vouch that he is a really smart guy, and I do agree with most (but not all) of what he has to say. I like Mark's second paragraph where he talks about how much disagreement there is in suspension theory. Its amazing to me how much disagreement there can be along really smart people who have all developed and designed really fast cars. You'd think that at some point they'd all converge on the 'right' answer, but the fact that they don't reinforces the fact that there just isn't a right answer to most of this stuff. I agree with what Danny says in point number 2, and I think Mark is agreeing as well. Several respected racecar engineers (Claude Rouelle, Carroll Smith) claim that there is such a thing as a CG distribution, which I think is impossible. Ya, if you cut your car into slices and measure them all individually you could come up with a CG distribution or profile. But since when does a chassis have a bunch of separate pieces moving in relation to one another? Unless you have a car with a significant amount of deflection between the front and rear suspensions, analyzing them with separate CG's just doesn't make any sense I disagree with points 5&6, I think you can have a roll & pitch axis that are not along the CG 'planes' of the car. As far as anti-dive and anti-squat go, I think that expressing it in a % makes no sense at all. It is exactly the same as having an above ground roll axis, just from a different angle. I've never heard an above ground roll axis referred to as a % anti-roll. Having an above ground pitch axis is basically just shortening the moment arm between your CG and the pitch axis, resulting in a lower pitch moment, but also lower pitch inertia (increasing your pitch natural frequency, and therefore reducing the vehicles response time in pitch) The trade-offs are less pitch damping, wheelbase changes in pitch and heave, higher control arm loads, vertical 'jacking' forces, and as 260DET stated, you lose bump compliance in the front. If you look at the suspension on some modern SUV's you'll notice they have pro-dive in the front, because it makes them more compliant over bumps, at the expense of a below ground pitch axis. (more pitch) I haven't been able to figure out what exactly they are arguing about concerning anti dive/squat. I need some pictures....

http://media.photobucket.com/image/jim%20lytle/gowjobs/Photos/QuadAlJPEG1.jpg?o=1

Yes, but thats a Walbro. I've already got a failing Walbro and will probably never buy another. Thanks anyways though =) I just bought a Bosch 910, we'll see how it works when it gets here.

a 044 is way more fuel pump than I need. I'm NA. Does anyone know where I can find a Bosch 910 or equivalent for a good price? boschfuelpumps.com is out of stock.

Has anybody here run a Bosch 910 yet? My Walbro is definatly dieing and this seems like a good replacement. http://boschfuelpumps.com/

http://www.helix-autosport.com/ That company has some pretty small diameter dual/triple disk solid hub organic clutches. Not cheap, and you would need a custom flywheel (unless they make one for our car) but I think it would be pretty awesome.

You do not want the shaft to 'bend and twist' under load. Any misalignment is going to accelerate gear wear. I don't understand his reasoning for saying the gears coming out of mesh is a good thing? In a normal bearing application you want an interference fit, where you have to heat the housing to fit the bearing in, and press it onto the shaft. However, in this situation you need to be able to easily assemble the gearbox. You want more of a locational clearance fit, where you can push or tap the bearing into place. However, it should never 'wiggle' around. Thats bad. If you can't get them to find you a new bellhousing or somehow fix it, you might be able to find another bearing with 1 or 2mm larger OD, and have them re-bore the hole to match (this time without going over) or you can use some green loctite to hold it into place.

I just bought a pair. Thanks!

I just got an old charger for a cellphone or something, and soldered a bosch connector to it. Plugged it into the wall, and sprayed B-12 Chemtool through them backwards. I tried using some other solvents, and not a drop would come through, but as soon as I used B-12 the gunk in there just melted away. I used 12v before I realized that I had low-Z injectors (they got pretty warm) but still work fine. 4-6v would probably work better?

Looking for the 70-72 style front bumper brackets in decent shape (not bent, no heavy rust) The ones that look like this: http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/images/ZEXFJC.jpg Thanks! -Eric

if you're using thicker material than stock you might be able to get away with no welding or reinforcement pieces at all. that would cut down on costs considerably.

Toe change with steering angle is referred to as Ackerman. I would recommend doing some research on the subject, as there are several different theories as to what is best and why. Toe-out with steering angle is pro-ackerman, and toe-in is anti-ackerman.

I believe on the Quaifes they are stacked )()()()( I would need to see better pictures of the OBX to confirm, but the Quaife has a small lip on the clutches (the small splined or scalloped pieces that retain the belleville washers) that would only catch the wide side of the washer on the ends...

Its from Florida, what do you expect? =)

If it doesn't grind going into reverse, it is most likely not a clutch adjustment issue

I had royal purple 75w-90 in mine and it would crunch into 2nd all the time. i put Redline MTL in and it is alot better. Does it grind when you put it into reverse when the car is not moving?

I had the same problem... it was the rear main seal AND oil pan gasket. Good time for a new clutch and a light flywheel.....

I think its important to not over-promise. its too easy to sometimes say "ya, we can do this and that in a week" when you haven't fully considered everything that goes into it, and then you end up making excuses to costumers as to why their stuff isn't done. My friend Kevin owns Evolution Dynamics, and has earned himself a great reputation tuning Evos in DFW. You might try shooting him an email and see if he has any advice for you (provided you're not going to start building evo engines ) Tell him that Eric, the fastest turbo-250 pilot in the history of mankind sent you... http://www.evodynamics.com/