z-ya

I've got similar problem going on with my brakes too. I had a line go in the rear, and I lost all the fluid in the rear system. I've since replaced the line, and bled the MC, and the entire system at least 4 times, and I still have a soft pedal. It goes to the floor. Even softer with the engine running. Before the brake hose let go the brakes were working awesome. I have 240SX rear, Wilwood front, with a 7/8 MC, and 240Z booster. I bought a new booster and MC, but after reading this thread, I must still have air in the system. Maybe it's worth pulling the MC and bleeding it out of the car so I know I'm getting a full stroke. Pete

I'm not sure about the ZX, but the 240Zs have a little rubber bumper in the lower rear corner of each door. They keep tension on the door to keep it from rattling. They are always poping out On the 240Z. Hope this helps, Pete

I recommend removing both of them. The flex line arrangement on the driver's side is not ideal. I suggest anyone that is using that line setup on the driver's side check the line for wear. Mine wore through from rubbing on the body. I had the line fail going into turn 6 at NHIS. Good thing it was my warmup lap. Lost 80% of my braking power. The setup is OK on the passenger side, just make sure the 10mm to 3AN adapter is the correct one (10mm inverted flare to 3AN male). I got a 10mm flare to 3AN with mine line kit, and it not only leaked, but it also damaged the brass "T" block to the point where I had to replace it (it started leaking even with the correct adapter). On the driver side I suggest getting a length of new hard line, with the fittings attached and the ends flared. Connect it to the T-block and run it to just before the frame on the driver side. You can bend it to go over the fuel lines like the factory one. Then get a 10mm flare to 3AN male adapter (Earls, Russell). Buy a 15" long pre made braided SS line with a 3AN female on one end, and a 10mm banjo on the other. Russell Performance and Earls makes them. Use a cushion clamp to hold the SS line in place on the frame. This is what I did, and it's a much better setup. The line routing ends up being similar to the passenger side. Turn the banjo fittings in towards the half shafts, rather than the stock 240SX orientation. Yea, you ned up tossing the driver side line that Ross sent you, but it's worth doing it right the first time. Hope some of this helps, and save some hassles (and maybe lives!), Pete

Try installing the "Dave" cap mod. It worked for me. I was having problems with noise on the tach signal. And yes, you should connect the tach signal to the "-" terminal of the coil. Pete

No laptop is OK, as long as that doesn't mean that is it not programmable. Maybe it has a hand controller? My WolfEMS system has a hand controller, and I think it's great. No need to boot a Windows PC to make an adjustment. I can make a fuel or ignition map adjustment with the push of a couple buttons. Pete

I'm contemplating the same thing on the track I've been working on. The hooks are off to each side, and behind the flexible air dam also. I was thinking of reinforcing the bracket where the bottom of the grille attaches, in the center. This way you can hook it right through the grille, just above the air dam. Would require some fabrication and welding though. Pete

clarkespeed wrote: So does this mean that the fuel system is plumbed this way? Sorry, it's hard to tell from the pictures. It's also hard to see the manifold line going to the FPR. Nice job BTW ! Pete

TimZ, I ageree with you on thre regulator as far as the lack of a vacuum reference. Although I have seen an ITS 280Z use a non-mnaifold reference regulator. Another comment on the fuel system, shouldn't it be connected like this? Pump => fuel rail => regulator => return to tank Pete

The Cannon manifold you are using has the crossover tube, so just hook up the booster port to your brake booster, and you should be OK. Depending on the cam you are running, you may need some sort of vacuum storage (cannister). BTW, I built the same engine (N47/flat tops), except that it has a stock cam with just a 3 angle valve job. The other difference is that I used a NA 280ZX manifold, and I ported to match the head gasket, and the 60mm TB. I'm also using a stock 280ZX distributor, with the timing set to 8deg BTC. It has what looks like the same header you are running. It also has a 2.5" exhaust with a Supertrapp. I'm using a Megasquirt, with MAP and VE table load sensing. The TPS is just for enrichment. It is putting 164HP to the wheels. Power starts dropping off over 5500RPM, so more head work and a more agressive cam would help. I'm using the stock 19lb/hr injectors. They peaked at 95% DC on the dyno. I have a set of turbo injectors I may put in it next season. The car is a track only 240Z. 20MPG on the track. See this thread for the dyno plot: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=34186 Pete

Stock turbo cam, 2.25" IC plumbing, cam timing is set to stock. I just uploaded an image to the Photo Album of my ignition timing map. It seems like I have enough fuel, the timing is pretty much where it needs to be. The only thing that I feel is restricting power is the overall air moving through the system. Comments welcome, Thanks, Pete

I like the V700 Victoracers, especially for the money. Did an event Monday with them and they performed quite well (3 - 20 minute sessions). I also have a set of unshaven Toyo Ra-1s on my turbo Z, which are also excellent. I've been running them on the street, and they are actually quite good in the wet. I ran them for a lap and 1/2 at NHIS on Monday, and they performed well until I lost a brake line. No damage done though. Pete

I'd say 36lb/hr or 42lb/hr should be OK. I think even with the 42lb/hr you should be able to get a good idle with the Megasquirt. Get some high Z ones, so you don't need to run limiting resistors, or mess with the PWM mode (you can dissable it). What kind of vacuum do you have at idle with your current motor? I would assume that it would be similar since you plan on using a similar cam. I'd start using the MAP sensor and VE table for load sensing with the Megasquirt first. The TPS would be doing acceleration enrichment only. From what I understand, it's easier to tuner than using the Aplha-N mode, with the TPS as load indication. Not sure how you go about calibrating all of those TBs, but a single TPS is all you need for accel. enrichment. Pete

I like the top-most setup for sure. Everything is tucked in nice. Can hide all the wires in there too. The setup with the separate SS hose for each injector is probably not the best setup. I'd be concerned about any of those fittings letting go. Also, in traffic the fuel in those hoses could get hot, potentially causing problems. The shortest distance from the rail to the injector is always better for keeping the fuel cool. Pick an injector that meets your realistic HP goals +10-15%. That way you will not sacrifice idle quality. That is iif you are running a mild cam where you could potentially have a good idle . Pete

Pete, That is going to be sweet! Are you going to weld the injector bungs on the outsides of the throttle bodies (not where the existing injector ports are)? Seems like you would have more room for injectors and fuel rails. I assume you are going to have some O-ring rails made (recommended). You'll have to fabricate some brackets to hold them on. I was talking to a guy at the track yesterday with a Daytona coupe track car. He is running individual downdraft throttle bodies (over 700HP). Last year he had a fuel rail blow off while he was on the track. 50psi of fuel coming from a 1/2" fuel line made a BIG fire. Burned the whole front end of the car (would of been nice if the corner worker had a fire extinguisher that worked). The rail blew off because only a few threads of 1/4-20 bolt was holding it on. Make sure those fuel rails are secure! With hose barb injectors it's not a big issue, but with the o-ring style be carefull. Now all you need is fresh can of tennis balls Pete

Hey Ron, We met at MSA. Our club built a track car with the same scheme (ours looks good from 20 feet or so). I was impressed with the quality of work you are doing on this project. Nice roll cage and seat arrangement (I'm a big guy too!). The paint looks awesome! Here is a recent pic of our club car at an autocross. We did a track event with it this weekend, and it performed very well. Pete

125 to 130 HP at the wheels is typical for a stock L28. At our club's last dyno day we had a couple stocks ones put out power in that area. We also had some modified ones (header, intake, exhaust), that weren't putting out much better (maybe a few more HP). The club track car we built put 164HP to the wheels. It has Megasquirt EFi, 60mm TB, 6-1 header, 2.5" exhaust, stock F54 flat tops, stock N47 head (10:1 CR). We thrashed it for 6 track sessions at NHIS, and we were getting 20MPG!. If you weren't on the brakes, the throttle was wide open. Pete

Thanks for all the comments and sugestions. Here is more information: Yes, it was tested on a Dynojet. It doesn' t look like most printouts, because I just grabbd the files off the dynojet computer and plotted them at home using the Dynojet viewing software. The EMS I'm using doesn't retard under boost, it has a 3D map for ignition (pressure vs RPM vs advance). So no retard is happening, it's around 24deg at full boost. I don't think the pressure is dropping off, but I wasn't watching the boost gauge, I was watching the tach. When I drive it on the street, the boost sits in the 12psi area when I have it floored. I'm not sure on compressor wheel, all I know that it is a .6 AR T04B, with the stock 280ZXT turbine. I bought it used, and had it rebuilt. You are right though, it's got to be better than the stock one. I stilll think I'm not getting air through it. Pete

A freind of mine was having the same problem with his brakes, and put in a vaccum canister. It worked great, he can lock them up no problem now. He is running a 300HP Rebello 3.2L, so the cam is fairly agressive. Pete

Thanks for the reply. I'm using 8 ZXT injectors, one for each cylinder, and then two in the IC discharge pipe. These are on 98% of the time that the primary injectors are. If you look at the A/F ratio, it pretty much dead on at 12:1, so I don't think it has anything to do with fuel. I may need to play with the timing a bit more. Pete

OK, Here is my latest dyno curve: http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/pete-dyno.jpg Not bad numbers, especially the torque. It seems to me that I'm not getting enough air through it. Should be plenty of torque for close to 270HP at the wheels it would seem. Here is the setup: Stock L28ET long block with P90A (hydraulic lifters) Spearco IC 60mm TB port matched to intake Intake port matced to head T3/T4b turbo (.60 AR compressor, stock ZXT turbine) K&N Filter 2.5" exhaust with Scottie GNZ downpipe and Borla muffler Wolf EMS (fuel and ignition) 12psi boost Timing at full boost around 24 deg advance Is the stock turbine limiting my HP? Comments and suggestions welcome. Pete

It's going to need a complete rebuild. I'd give him $50 for it.

The drivability is excellent. As you can see from the dyno plot, there are no flat spots, and the AF ratio just about perfect for power. I estimate that this motor is putting out around 180HP at the crank. Awesome for an NA L28 with a stock cam, and no head work to speak of. I didn't touch the accel bins. I still need to adjust the warmup bins as it hesitates when it's cold. Pete

Dynoed the 10:1 L28 I've Megasquirted yesterday. It a F54 with flat tops, and an N47 head. Head is stock, with stock cam. Only other mods are 6-1 header, Supertrapp, and 60mm TB. I'm very pleased with the results. The motor is in a autocross/time trial car a bunch of people in our local club built. Thanks goes out to Mark Sims for posting his map in the Megasquirt Yahoo group files area. I had to make a few changes to the required fuel setting, and to the number of squirts to get it to idle smooth. Changed the TPS calibration, and also played with the warmup bins a bit. But the VE table was almost perfect. All I did was lean it out a bit at 6k, becasue there was no more power to be gained, and the duty cycle was getting close to 100%. Figure this will save the injectors (19lb) in the long run. http://www.zccne.org/events-2004/dyno-2004/bad-dog.jpg http://www.sweetspotproductions.com/psanders/images/devins.jpg Pete

I've used Rich at: http://www.cruzinperformance.com too. He is excellent, but I found that he is really busy, and his turnaround time is not as good as Witch Hunter. Pete

OK here is the head I put on my F54 flat top motor: I was hoping that the CR would be around 10:1, because it's in a autorcoss/time trial car (not street legal). Is this a fair assumption? The LEngine program says that the N47 head has a 44.6cc chamber volume. Is this correct? I recently finished a motor for my wife's 280Z, and I built it with what looks like a Maxima head, but I used an aftermarket piston with a smaller dish than stock. I also bored it 1mm. I'm hoping the CR on this motor isn't too high for pump gas. The Maxima head looks like a nice alternative if you are looking for a higher CR than stock, but less than 9.5:1. A 1mm overbore, with dished pistons, and the Maxima head give you around 9:1 CR (using 40cc as a chamber volume). Pete