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z-ya

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Everything posted by z-ya

  1. You got a nice looking S130 there! Any changes you make beyond what you have done (header/intake) will require changes to the EFI. So if you are not comfortable doing this kind of stuff, and don't want have pay someone to do it, then I would just leave it stock. Tune it up, keep it clean, and enjoy driving it. Now if you are looking to learn how to do this kind of stuff, then start by doing a lot of research before you do anything to the car. The next step I would take is a mild street cam that can use the stock valve springs. You swap that without removing the head. And the N47 head is fine for a mild street engine. I use one on my race car because it's what I had. But then you will need to screw with the stock EFI to get it to run right otherwise it will probably run lean or have flat spots in the power band.
  2. I will have it back on the dyno this spring and will take some videos. Pete
  3. What, you didn't paint a smiley face on the side before bringing it to the body shop? My daughter asked if was going to paint another smiley face on it when I was done. I said sure, on the bottom. She asked me the other day, did you paint the smiley face on the bottom of the car yet?
  4. No problem Tony. It's hanging in my garage, and we've got more than enough work to do on the car before it's first event. When you get a chance. Thanks.
  5. I know Jimmy Caselnova raced SCCA GT2 for years in his tube frame purpose built Z32. Not sure if he is still racing. He only uses E31 heads and F54 blocks for his motors. Dry sump, 13.5:1, 300+HP. Not sure why they use E31 heads. Jay Gurtlinger from Bob Sharp racing builds his engines an dcertainly knows what he is doing. In the races I've seen he is as fast as GT1 cars. Pretty cool considering most of those GT1 cars have 500+ HP. You can check out the car: http://caselnovamotorsports.com/car.html In this photo the car on the rotisserie in the back is the 280ZX Paul Newman won the SCCA championship in. Pete
  6. Exactly, you can push it as hard as you want on the track, and it is a safe way to do it. Once you race on a track, you will never find yourself doing this kind of crazy sh*t again.
  7. No spark, or no tach input signal? Sounds like some of your settings got screwed up when you did the upgrade.
  8. Hi Pat, I suggest that you just go ahead and get the 240SX TPS from the junk yard, you will see immediately what needs to be done. You need to slightly modify the sensor mounting bracket so it fits the mounting holes on the stock TB. The connectors are different, that is why you need to cut the harness on the junkyard engine so that you have both ends of the connector. Pete
  9. I still don't think you need to remove them. But you can just drill out the spot welds if you do. Then straighten and wel the brackets back on.
  10. I just enabled your account, thanks for joining. Pete
  11. Coming together. Still need to buff out rear quarter: Motor sits in there nicely:
  12. Why would you remove the brackets? If you want to paint them, start by getting them sand blasted. Then just follow normal body work procedure.
  13. I know it's a lot more money, but is this one out of stock too? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM06/10-2138
  14. I grew up south of Boston, but live in NH now. We have a pretty good club up here. Mostly S30s. Let us know if you need help finding a car or parts. Pete
  15. http://www.zccne.org We can help you find a car. Pete
  16. I always shoot for a consistent AFR across all RPM and load points. Theoretically it should be a flat line at the AFR that your engine makes the most power at. But there are so many variables (advance, VE, RPM, load, etc.). Yes, I have Access to (wish I owned) a DynaPack. this allows you to set a fixed RPM or load band and the dyno will hold the engine at that point. We start with a generic timing table with a conservative max advance at WOT. We typically work on one RPM band at a time, and then tune each load bin. So when you are done with one load bin at a given RPM, you press the throttle a little more until you get to the next load bin. You keep repeating this until you reach your max RPM or it starts getting too hot (let it cool down and continue). Once all the load bands are tuned then we will do some max power pulls and fine tune max power by adding advance (gradually) and monitoring AFR. So add a little advance and a little fuel at the same time. You will eventually reach a point where it is either detonating, or it isn't making any more power and the AFR is getting rich. My rule of thumb is 14:1 for NA and 12.5:1 for boosted. So to answer your question, once you find that "sweetspot" AFR for your engine, I would shoot for a flat AFR curve in that region. Just add a little safety margin in your spark advance and AFR so you are not blowing head gaskets. Pete
  17. I used E-Dead sound deadening. One gallon did two coats on the entire interior (less roof) of a 240Z. Haven't driven it yet, but I hope it helps. It is much lighter than any of the sheet deadeners. http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=53
  18. z-ya

    My Dilema

    Looks nice, so what's the problem
  19. This is one reason why to use the 240mm one. My point is to not mix and match flywheels, pressure plates, disc from a bunch of different applications when you really don't need to. Just use an L28ET flywheel and stage 1 clutch kit and be done with it (for less than 350Wft-lbs).
  20. It's running. Haven't driven it yet. Sounds good, idles smooth. I wired the check engine light to the amber choke lamp in the console. I'm also wiring in a hidden kill switch. Tach isn't working, so I think I will need to make a converter circuit because the ECU probably puts out a 5V signal where the 280Z tach needs a 12V signal.
  21. It really doesn't need to be this complicated. If you don't care about an aluminum flywheel, just get a stock L28ET or any L28 flywheel from a 2+2 (240mm). If you want aluminum, just get the Fidanza for the same application. For a clutch get a stage 1 L28ET clutch kit (makes sense, doesn't it ) , which usually has 50-70% more clamping force than stock with a stock disc. I've been using the Clutchmasters FX100 for at least 5 years now and 30+ track events (road race), and it still works flawlessly. My car measures 320Wft-lbs. And to be honest, there is nothing wrong with a 225mm flywheel. With the right clutch, it has more than enough surface area to handle 300+Wft-lbs.
  22. Mine sleep from Dec 1st to April 1st each year. In April wait for that good hard rain to wash all the salt away. It's a good excuse to get a lot of work done on them during the winter so I can drive them once April arrives.
  23. The RB20DET transmission is the same as the 240SX. The only difference being the bell housing. The RB25DET trans is the same as the Z32 less the bell housing. Why don't you just use a 240SX shifter? I had to modify mine a bit but it worked out great.
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