z-ya

As far as I know, MSII only supports one IAT sensor. You would have to rewrite some embedded code, and then would you control the compensation for each injector bank that is associated with a TB? There is a balance tube, so I think it would all average out anyway. Now using both for monitoring temperature and only one for air temp compensation, that would be interesting. Still would require code changes. Of course an additional ADC would need to be available on the processor anyway (never mind DB37 pins).

Hopefully no "goo" is required. It's a race car, so a high idle is OK Pete

Here is the latest. I've mounted the IAT in the throttle body using Tony's suggestion. Worked out amazingly well. The butterfly opens away from the sensor, so there will no interference. Also notice the mod to the 240SX TPS mount. The ZXT TB TPS mounting holes are spread apart more than the 240SX sensor. So I used a ZXT sensor plate, and mounted the 240SX sensor to it.

I think it is different enough that it should be a separate thread. Just to minimize confusion. I will start the thread over the next week or so. I have photos and a schematic almost done. Pete

Looks great. Much better than when leaving Mid-Ohio I should talk, here I am on (ehem, off) the track at Mid-Ohio:

Just that the thread was about cam/rocker damage, not lash pad/rocker contact area damage.

What does the came side look like?

I am going through an RB25 NEO R34 harness now in preparation for an install. The harness is quite different than an R33 RB25 harness. Do you guys want me to pot this info to this thread, or start a new one? I prefer to start a new one because there are significant differences. Pete

Anyone use the aux fan control on a RB25 NEO motor? According to the R34 manual the ECU uses coolant temp (CLT) and the AC switch position to control the fan If it is like my 350Z, then if the AC switch is on, the fan runs continuously. I want to use the Aux fan relay to control a cooling fan to eliminate the mechanical fan. I am assuming that as long as the ECU thinks that the AC is off, it will only use CLT to control this fan. Sounds reasonable? Pete

I'll just keep an eye on it, and report back if I see any signs of wear. I had the head off in November, and there were no signs of wear then. Pete

I am wondering why I have not seen problems in close to 5 years with the Comp Cams camshaft and reground OEM rockers I'm running. For the most part I run conventional 20W50, except this year I ran Mobil 1 20W50. No additives. Cam and lifters have at least 5000 track miles on them. Pete

I'm sorry I'm chiming in a little late here, but the problem is not the cam, or oil, but a combination of aftermarket rockers and the wrong thickness lash pads (wipe pattern way off). An alternative to new rockers is having some Nissan ones reground by Delta Camshaft. I think they charge around $3 each, and the come back looking like new. I've been running reground rockers with a Comp Cams camshaft and the correct lash pads for over 5 racing seasons without any issues. Stay away from aftermarket rockers, and always check the wipe pattern on EVERY rocker arm. Pete

Your local Nissan dealer. The OEM Nissan gaskets are the best.

Jay, Probably the nicest 2+2 I've ever seen. Tastefully done! Pete

Wow, this is the longest thread I've seen to discuss 6 resistors. Regardless if they are fired sequentially or at the same time, you need 6 resistors. You can't sum the inductive load of the injector with the resistive load of the resistor, and then just use Ohms law to find the total resistance. You want an independent circuit for each injector. Just get the OEM Nissan resistor pack and be done with it. It is designed to be mounted in the engine compartment and ruggedized for long life. Pete

Exactly. The 240Z that I time trial race is setup with this goal in mind. 180WHP, a stiff chassis, and a good suspension setup. I turn faster lap times in this car than my 300WHP turbo car with a lesser setup. The better you become as a driver, the less you rely on the brakes, and the more you rely on the chassis setup. To be honest, it takes a lot more skill to make a car go fast in the turns than on the straight (anyone can step on the accelerator ). Ever been on a track with a talented driver in a spec or prepared Miata? Get ready to be humbled. Many racers still use 14" wheels. I use 15" with 225-50ZR15 Hoosiers, Kumho, Toyo. Dan Baldwin usually turns FTF (fastest time with fenders) with 14s and stock brakes. Pete

I often jokingly brag about the race car having an ignition module from a Aerostar and a coil pack from a Dodge mini van. Wow, awesome dude . After seeing (and feeling) the spark that this setup throws, it IS awesome.... Pete

In my street legal turbo 240Z that get's frequent track use I have a 12" Wilwood setup with 15" wheels. This is way overkill BTW:

Edited.... Daeron, I totally agree. Even 17s don't look right on an S30, never mind 18s. Too much rim, and not enough rubber. Also, unless they are forged, big rims mean big weight. Small rims have less unsprung weight (rubber is lighter than cast aluminum, right?). As far as ZG flares, I also agree, contrasting colors between the body and flares just makes them stand out too much. I do like the look of when they are painted to match the car: Unless you have huge HP, and are road racing, you don't need giant brakes. Now if you are going for the big wheel / big brake "Look", then your on the right track. What is more important is a well balanced brake system, not one that is the biggest.

Fantastic work, as usual Derek. Pete

Looking at the circuit diagram from the R34, it looks they are all standard SPST (single poll, single throw), except for the ECM & IGN coil relay, which is DPST (double poll, single throw). Better check your schematic to be sure. Pete

Ray, can you post the Napa part number? The link is to an expired session. Thanks, Pete

Six 260cc/min injectors will flow plenty for that setup

R19 has a poor solder joint as well. There is a whole bunch of components missing too, which may have not been needed for the builder's application, but you may need them. I hope you got a great deal on it, because it needs work. Depending on what you paid for it, you might want to just buy a new fully tested v3.0 main board, and try to get your money back. Last thing you want is a questionable ECU when you are trying to do a new MS installation. Pete

Your right, I had an over boost problem with too small a waste gate port. Then I removed the boost controller which was set for 14psi. So you can see that the torque flattens out at 3600RPM, and then continues to climb. At 3600RPM the boost pressure was around 7psi, so the waste gate opened then, and the boost continued to creep to around 14psi (where I let off the throttle). After porting the waste gate I put the boost controller back in, and now it hits 14psi around 3200RPM, and stays there. Sorry for the confusion. Pete