z-ya

No, but I just bought a Cobra Imola GT seat, and it fits nice in the 240Z. Should also fit a wide variety of drivers. Very comfortable, and excellent support. http://www.cobraseats.com/motorsport/imola.php

Ross, John J. will be shipping you two sets of 280Z companion flanges to modify for use with Z31 turbo half shafts. One set for him, one for me. Let me know what I owe you once you receive them. Thanks,

I like them too. Too bad no 16" or 17" sizes.

Drilled/slotted rotors are a waste of money (unless bling is more important than performance). Get some good quality rotors from Brembo or another reputable mfg. Then get some decent pads. I like the Stillen metal matrix pads for street use. They really bite (in a good way ).

You are assuming that we will get it all sorted out

Chepito, that is my shop! Yes, I live in the woods of NH. BTW, the owner of that car is John at Bad Dog parts (http://www.baddogparts.com). It is a super nice frame up 72' restoration with Rebello 3.2L power.

Fantastic work!

Before you ground the tab on the FET, check the datasheet to be sure that the tab is connected to the source (S). Otherwise it might be time to order up another FET.

Hear is the schematic for the fast acting valve: They should be one in the same. Where do you have the FET circuit? Is it in another case outside of the MS? Is it in the MS? When Pin X4 goes high, it turns on the FET. The makes the connection between the drain and source a low resistance, thus providing a ground path for the valve. But X4 is not simply turned on, it is pulse width modulated at some rate to modulate the fast acting valve. So to know for sure if it is working, you need to scope it. I would double check all of you wiring with an Ohm meter to be sure everything is connected right for starters. If I get a chance I will hook up my test MS and see if I can see what the X4 output does when boost control is enabled. What version of code are you using?

My 240Z turbo:

My all time favorite: 2nd favorite: My new favorite (just bought it):

zfiberglass.com makes this panel:

I think they are dual drilled, or maybe it is the FI heads that are dual drilled for both manifold types.

It should work, but some tuning will be requried as it is setup for a 2.8L. You can make injector notches in the head with a Dremel tool. Use an L28 head gasket as a template, and have at it. Shove a rag into each port to prevent metal filings from getting into the combustion chamber.

Did you clean both the head and deck of all oil residue? This will effect how well the gasket seals. Is it just weeping, or leaking really bad. I've seen a bunch of L6s slowly weep coolant out the side of the gasket on the passenger side. Fo the NA applications, the Nissan gasket is the best, unless you want to increas CR slightly with the Felpro. A friend of mine uses only Nissan OEM head gaskets in his L6 powered SCCA GT2 Z32 (15:1 CR), and has never had one fail.

Looks nice, could you post the steps you took to complete the project?

Thanks for posting your map! Before you change you timing, verify that the timing you set in the timing table match the actual timing as measured with a timing light. Use the trim angle to compensate for any timing error. A lot people forget to do this calibration. What head gasket are you running at 17psi? How is the idle with those 440cc/min injectors?

Make sure you calibrate the actual engine timing with what is in the timing table in MT. Set you idle timing to something you can verify with the timing tab and a timing light (like 15deg BTC). Then adjust the trim angle setting in the spark settings until the timing in the active timing bin matches the timing on the timing tab. Note that the spark advance gauge in the main MT window does not take in to consideration the trim angle.

Check to be sure that you don't have coolant in the oil (milky), then take it out on the highway to get all that coolant out of the exhaust. If aft a 15 highway rode, you still got steam, check your plugs and oil again. Did you check the head for flatness? Did you clean the block and head surface? I use acetone, or brake cleaner. The gasket should be cleaned too. If you did all that, I'd be real surprised if the gasket is leaking.

You can keep or remove the canister. Most people remove it because it takes up space in the engine compartment, and doesn't really look all that good. It will function just fine if you decide to keep it. If you remove it, remember that you will need to vent the gas tank somehow or pressure will build up inside of it. I modified my cap by drilling a tiny hole in it. It is just enough to keep pressure from building up, but not big enough to let much gas out when corning hard with a full tank.

What is a flow guide valve? To convert a 240Z to FI, you need to increase the size of the return line to 5/16". If you are loooking for big power, replace the small stock return line with a 3/8" line, and use that for the feed. The old feed can be used for the return if you switch them back at the tank.

Roostmonkey, sign me up for one!

If the coil is arcing to the body, then you most likely have a bad coil wire. How old are the wires? Putting a new set of Bosch or NGK wires on there may solve you problem

Why not just use Nissan OEM bearings. They are not all that expensive, considering how important they are to your build. All racers I know that run an L6 use OEM bearings.

My money was refunded too, and the seller does not respond to email. I'd like to still order one, but I'm not sure I want to deal with this seller. I'd bet that when he went to order the dampers from the mfg, he realized he was going to loose money, so he made up the story about shipping damage. This seller communicates poorly, and special orders everything. He is selling ARP bolt kits, but you have to wait three weeks, and the price is higher than Summit Racing. I'd stay away from this guy...