z-ya

How much boost do you think you will need to make 500HP, 18psi or so? I would think that a good quality inductive ignition would do the trick. I personally know of people that have hit the 500WHP goal in a 300ZXTT running the stock ignition. What is important is using the proper plug heat range, and setting the plug gap for the coils and boost levels you are running.

If your coils have built in igniters, the M&W CDI ignition module will destroy them. CDI ignitions have a much higher primary voltage, that yields a much higher secondary voltage than an inductive igntion system. An inductive ignition system has a 12V primary voltage. A CDI igntion can have as high as 500V on the primary. Want to see smoke? Put 500V on the input of a device that expects 5 or 12V. You also need to use the proper coil for a CDI ignition to avoid coil overheating. On the input side, these M&W CDI ignition modules can be triggered from an ECU (+5V square wave), or a distributors inductive pickup. Looks like you need to order different part numbers for each one. A CDI is a huge investment, and is really only needed in all out race applications. You also need to run solid core wires, and non-resistor plugs. If you have a nice stereo in your car, forget about listening to it any more as the CDI creates a lot of interference (EMI). Stay away from CDI unless you are building a track-only car. M&W also makes an inductive 3 channel unit (IGN010), that can be used with standard coils, and can be driven from a aftermarket ECU like the Wolf3D or a Megasquirt. Nology also has an inductive module that is much smaller, and works great: http://nology.com/module.html You could use two of these an do a COP setup. If you COP coils have igniters built in, use them as they are probably excellent OEM quality. You can save yourself a bundle too. In wasted spark applications I've use RX-7 coil packs which have the modules build in. No lack of spark runnning over 16psi of boost. Cheap from junkyards too. You can also make your own module using the VB921 coil drivers that are used in the Megasquirt. You just need to wire them up and make the whole package water and vibration proof.

Hear are a couple of threads to read about EDIS using a Megasquirt: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113165 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112161 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 DIS is certainly good for blown applications where timing accuracy is extremely important. If you are converting to stand alone EFI, implementing DIS is not that much more work if the ECU supports it. If you are running carbs, adding DIS is a lot of work for little to no gain in performance, unless you are running a very high CR. In that case adding an MSD box would be much easier. For the budget minded person with good electronic skills, the Megasquirt with EDIS is a great option. For others, an aftermarket unit like a Wolf 3D (Electromotive units are overly complicated to program IMO) is a great system. For a cheap but excellent performing L6 ignition, use an 81' ZX na distributor and module, along with either a stock ZX coil, or a "high performance" coil of your choice. I ran this setup on my track car for three years, without any problems. I had a 10:1 L28 with a stock cam and no headwork in the car at the time, and it made 165WHP. Would an MSD make any more power? I don't think so. If you are running high boost pressures, or a very high CR (greater than 13:1), an MSD will definitely make a difference. In mildly modified street engines, I don't think so. I recently dynoed a Rebello 3.1L with SUs and a stock 280Z distributor. The only other mod to the ignition was a MSD Blaster II coil. This made 240WHP. Again, would an MSD box give more power? Probably not.

Wow, I've never heard of that happening. The battery should act like a huge capcitor to the battery charger, filtering out the rectified 60Hz. Either your battery is questionable, or where you have the injector power connected is extra sensitive for some reason. Is the injector power connected to the battery directly? You never want to power any of the EFI system from the starter motor.

If your L24 long block is stock, and you are just looking for better drivability by using EFI, get the entire EFI setup off a L24 powered Maxima or 810. You may also want to use an MN47, N47, or N42 head because it has the injector slots in the intake ports. You can cut your own in an E88 or E31 head, it's not that difficult. If you are looking to build a performance L24 (cam, head work, etc.), then go with Megasquirt or an aftermarket system. You be able to get the most out of you engine mods with a programable system.

Every ECU installtion I've done, whether MS or aftermarket, has had bugs that needed to be figured out. My first MS install actually just started up the first time I cranked it. It was a fuel-only installation, so it was esier than an EDIS one. I still had problems with the MS later on as I installed the wrong transistors for the injector drivers. For some reason people think that installing a MS is easy. It is not! You need good debug, soldering, wiring and circuit sense. I debugged many VERY complex systems in my profession (satellite ground terminals), but even the MS can stump me sometimes. The important thing is to be persistant, and don't give up. Keep asking the questions, reviewing your installation, and THINKING. I've solved system problems at home in the shower! The last problem I had was with the superchaged car on the dyno. I couldn't figure out why I could drive it, but couldn't put much of a load on it on the dyno. After checking everything possible with the MS, the problem ended up not being the MS at all, but the plug gap! trwebb26: if you are getting any resets while cranking, I would monitor the 12V going to the MS. If you have a scope, trigger it on the falling edge, and look for any dips in voltage below 12V. If you don't have a scope, just use a DVM and monitor it while cranking. When I bring up a new MS installation for the first time, I always have a stout batery changer connected. Try connecting one.

Can you just counter sink the holes in the triggerd wheel, and then use flat head screws to hold it to the pully?

Did you bore it, or just put new rings and pistons? Did you use the proper hone for the rings you used? Did you remove any ridge? Head re-torque is not required. I built a bunch of L28s and have never done it. Never had a problem. What color is the smoke, white ore blue?

The amount of effort you put into something (including a post to this forum) will determine how much benefit you will get out of it. Why not spend a little more time and effort writing your post so we can understand it. Try adding some capitalization, punctuation, and complete sentences. It makes it WAY easierr for us to read. Also, more info about your setup, and goals would help too.

Best place to measure noise is at the MS. Ground the scope probe at the MS and probe the input signal on the DB37 connector. The edges should be clean and glitch free. If you can capture a screen shot from the scope, post it so we can look at it.

If you are getting spark, it is not the VB921. If you want to go through the exercise of trying an HEI module, it can't hurt. You are fixing the symptom, not the problem though. Did you verify with a Timing light that cylinder #1 is firing somewhere on the timing tab? If you can't see the timing mark on the pully anywhere on the timing tab, then your timing is off. change the timing angle in MT until the timing you measure with the timing light matches you crank timing setting. You may want to pull the fuel pump fuse to prevent it from firing. Once you have the timing calibrated, put the fuel pump fuse back in, it should fire right up.

Typo, yes, oil pump shaft. I rev my turbo car to 6000RPM, and my track car to 7000RPM all the time, and so far no problems. It could be one of those problems just waiting to crop up. If I have a problem, it will probably happen in the track car first. On another note, I have Megasquirt driving a shift light (set to 7000RPM), and kicking on water injection. I also added the tacho output circuit so now I have a tach. But really, who needs one with a shift light 8^). I'm using all of the spare connections in the DB37 connector now!

It should be pulling 15-20 in/hg, so you probably have a vacuum leak.

Did you make a wooden shim and tap it down in there before you removed the cam sprocket? It should be a piece of wood about 5/8" x 1" x 7". When you tap it down in there, it keeps the tensioner from popping out. If you didn't use one, you need to pull the timing cover to be sure that the chain is positioned correctly on the crank sprocket. You will probably have to re-time the engine depending on how it was oriented when you removed the cam sprocket. Remeber, you can bend valves by hand cranking an L6 if the head is on, but the timing chain isn't (I'm raising my right hand), so be careful. Even with flat top pistons. You may think it is just compression, but its not, its valve-piston interference.

The 300ZX TPS is like the 240SX one as it has both a switch, and potentiometer inside if it has cruise control. If no cruise control, it has a pot only. They are identical. The 280ZX TPS has a switch only.

You are probably running around 280 for cam duration, right? Is it NA? If it is, you only have 9in/hg (30kPa) of tuning range per load band. The pressure resolution in MSExtra code is 1kPa. You can set your 12 pressure (load) bins to start at 100kPa (top), down to 67kPa on the bottom. Do 3kPa increments. If you find that you do not have anough adjustment resolution, you can always switch to Alpha-N mode, which only looks at throttle position, not manifold pressure. I think you should be able to do it in speed density (standard) mode.

Paul, I've been running my turbo car for around 5 years with the stock fuel pump shaft in there. I haven't had any noticable problems. I've got aroun 30K miles on it, and many track days. Should I be concerned?

Thanks for the post. Did you have to make any changes to your map? Can you just save you settings, and then load your msq file back in with the high res code?

No Shield is required if you are triggering on the "-" terminal of the coil. Do you have a steady RPM when cranking? What version PCB do you have? Give us some more details on you setup. Thanks

It is most likely your oil prssure sending unit. So either replace it, or test your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. You can pick up a 1/8" NPT fuel pressure gauge that should work. You may need to fabricate an adapter between 1/8" NPT and the metric pipe thread. After you use it to test oil pressure, you can use it to test fuel pressure when you need to. Mine come in handy on occasion.

Just make a aluminum plate to block off the distributor hole. You should use a gasket or silicone to seal it also. This on is a little ugly, and doesn't fit the greatest, but it keeps oil in the engine.

Drew, Inverting the spark out appears to have fixed the problem. Just to be sure, verify that the advance is working. If you invert the sprak output so the polarity is now incorrect for the EIDIS, the timing will be fixed at 10 degrees. It will probably run fine with a fixed advance of 10 deg, but it won't perform well.

Search man search..... (HybridZ that is)

Drew, Some of your ingnition setting don't match what is suggested in the MSII EDIS page: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 1) Why is your trigger offset set to -4? It should be zero. 2) The predictor algorith should be set to "Last Interval". 3) Cranking trigger should be "Calculated" Try fixing these settings and let us know how you make out. Pete

You can also use a stock 280Z/ZX resistor pack. I use these on 280Z/ZX installs because the mounting holes are already there, and it is weatherized so it can be in the engine compartment.