streeteg

thank would be awesome--- I always thought it bolted right up--- i guess I got a different year? -E

not to bring this thread back from the dead but I am guessing you had a TPS off a different year Q then me? Cause this is what I am dealing with now pics up RB TPS Q45 TPS

Not sure--- Although I thought i read somewhere that the rb and Q's Throttle position sensors were interchangeable...

Just purchased the one from the first link.... 227 Shipped.... Then I will def make it a defroster. This thing is probably gonna sweat me out of the car half the time LOL....Stay tuned for install pics. -E

help!

So I pulled the stock manifold and transferred everything using common sense... as well as the pictures out of the japanese texted directions.... however there are a few hoses that I need to hook up and I am lost. First and Foremost the TPS sensor. pics up RB TPS Q45 TPS The stock harness does not adapt to the Q 45 TPS so I need to cut and hardwire it looks like. Anyone done this before? Next I have a few hoses that I can not figure out where they go.... I know coolant lines pass through the throttle body, but anyone with experience who can chime in that would be great! Thanks Eric UPDATE: Coolant Sender Now after following your advice this is what I did.... Took "Coolant Line" and attached it to the hardline going to the turbo behind the head. Capped off Bleeder Valve Ran the PCV system to the bigger port on the GIM Here is what she looks like Pre-tuck of fuel lines, and all vacuum hoses. All ports on the Intake mani will be used from a vacuum standpoint: AVC-R BOV Fuel Rail PCV System Brake Master Cylinder Now finally--- I need to know how bad this is--- which I am assuming it isnt horrible--- but Just incase I need to order my injectors early LMK... This is what I found when I took off my rail- 1 was already like it and 2 were hanging on by nothing when I got to them so they eventually came off before they went into the head: The right is for comparison--- Are they stabilizers? Crucial to fuel control? They dont look THAT important but I would rather be safe then sorry....As the cold approaches the only thing I need the car running for is to make it to my parents storage garage. Thanks again Guys!

I bought my spacers off Ebay. TC Sportlines. Had the fronts machined out to fit over the hub in and the rears bolted on the drum no problem. Its a street car that really doesnt get any hardcore track usage so I am not worried about the heat/pressure reliability thing. Cost me 150 bucks front and rear 2" in the back 1.5inch front

The tokicos will "bolt right in" (without major cutting or welding) or will I have to section the struts? My apologies in advance--- my previous cars were newer imports where the mods and bolt ons were lego-esk in the skill needed to put them on. Why 20-40 hours for the install? Does this have to do with the spindle issue (Still have to search some more) Or because of all the bushings. As for the budget it was for the suspension components only. All worn parts will be replaced as I will proib completely do brakes and suspension all at once. Is there any spring/ sleeve that allows for height adjustability? Or do the street combos only give you the preset amount... thanks again. -Eric

So I have been searching up and down the forums looking at suspension because my passenger rear strut is toast. The car is a semi daily driven street car that wont ever see time at a road course. As I read through all the write ups, stickys and reviews it seems that options range from 3k preassembled setuips to 1600 arizona z car DIYs... but my question is--- is there a reilable street suspension setup that can be used that is bolt on? I was looking to spend about a grand...

so that would essentially make the suspension bolt in?

I mean the perches for the coilovers--- but I am assuming its the same deal--- Ill see what I can find--- anyone have a picture of what needs to be done?

hey dont mean to go OT but why is there a need for a weld on perch is the kits are made for our cars? Anyone have more info on doing this?

why spend all this cash and not upgrade the cradle, main bolts and crank? I feel like if your "seeing how far they can go" youre expecting them to break....which seems like a lot more work then having them replaced during the build. just curious

I disagree---IMO i think it has too many lines in it trying to be sport- like an earlier body kit from the late 90s. F&F style... but thats just me.... -Eric

i cant tell if that car is mean as hell or ugly as expletive. Prob both. I got 17s and the ride isnt that bad---although i think i have a blown strut--- so we will see... replacements on the way

Motor: RB25DET S2 Chassis: 74 260z Painless wiriing harness I have been having some issues with my electrical system when it comes to being too many wires being spliced and resplice and grounded to the same location. So this week I will be making a grounding block for my Z for both the interior and engine bay. As for the engine bay-- Do the tranny and Battery ground need to be shared? How many grounds are there within the engine bay? Is there a way to remove the wires from the box that are no longer in use? What have you guys been doing for wiring? Discuss?

I have stock 260z seats to unload if anyone is in need....make offers

You are extremely skilled at what you do. Emulation or not I give you 10 tuner points for that creation. On a scale of 10. Seriously though that car is amazing. Very nicely done. Best, Eric

Need....to get..... to .... your....level...

some members may tell you to search and pick a turbo based on your purpose for the car but since we have the same HP goal and I have been trying to guage what Journal Bearing Turbo people are going with for ~400 to the wheels I will say In for an answer. That being said I believe the .82 ar is the choice pick---however I can be wrong.

ya i have the center caps here with me---I literally went to take a pic to put the for sale ad up cause I wanted the 18s so i figured I would leave them in the package until they are sold- I might just keep them for spares but the tires are expensive as ♥♥♥♥ to use them just as spares. I also need to run 2" spacers on the rear after the 9.5s to get them to sit flush.... right now they are sunken in and its the most annoying thing in the world lol This is with a 1.5inch spacer on the rear

Well I got wheels for my car and with the widebody I am able to fit 18s in the back so thats what I am gonna do--- Details: Purchased 8/28/07 Wheel: 17x9 Sportmax 006 Color: Gunmetal w/ Polished Lip Offset: +35 Tire: Kuhmo MX Tire Size: 245/40/17 I literally got these wheels on 8/28/07! They are on my car until my new wheels come in. Quick Pic: Doesnt do the coloring justice cause the sunlight is blaring but you get the idea. The front and rear are the same size but due to how much the front tucks relative to the rear you can see why I am going 18s The spacer information is irrelavant because of the widebody--- but the car to look right needs 18s in the rear. That being said if anyone wants my 17s they are brand new awesome for your stock body Z. Cost me cost me 630 new after everything just for the rears! (So make offers if your interested) I couldnt help it...quick cam phone pic

I just put on the same wheels on my car--- however in 17x9 in the rear and 17x8 in the front. I will take some shots and post my own thread-- but I definately need to go 18x9.5 in the rear. Nice wheels -- thanks for the inspiration

well after the core exchange the deatschwerks are actually cheaper. They seem to be modded stockers. Which is why I am asking who has them and if they would suggest using them

welp looks like ill be-a-weldin the spider gears