Derek

I finally got this crap out of my head and you had to wave this in front of me Yes a copy of the prints are a good starting point. Often times though the prints are way off from the final castings. I do a lot of parts for a kit helicopter based on an old Sikorsky. The prints I get are from the 50's and were hand drawn by the the draftsman at sikorsky. Most times if I build to the prints he part wont fit. If I work from an original part it fit's every time. If someone came to me with this project this is how I would do it. 3D scan the original with my structured light scanner. Develop a solid model based on the exterior scan. Design the water core, intake, and exhaust system based on observation of the original casting and print. Make any changes to the design deemed necessary for use in modern machining and usage. Rig the model with the necessary gating, core prints risers etc. Have the sand mold and cores 3D printed at exone in texas. Ship the printed sand to the foundry and pour. Hope like hell your gating is right and you get a good pour as you only get one chance. Bask in the glory that technology can afford. Then fap Derek

Hi Yes I do and I have them in stock 100.00 plus 5.00 shipping. PM me your paypal address if you want a set. Derek

I bought my paint from SPI. I heard about them on one of the hot rod boards and people were very positive about the quality. They have a basic red that was pretty reasonable.

I used panel adhesive on all my rust repair panels and haven't had a problem. Expensive but worth every penny. Derek

32 years for me. Bought it in 1980. At the time I had a 1968 Firebird and a 1970 Maverick. The 240 then replaced the Maverick that was my daily driver. And now after all these years the Z is my daily again. Funny how things work out like that! Here's a shot of the Firebird. This was probably in 1979. Derek

Hey I can see my car from here! The red one with the hood up. I called bill. They're from Reaction Research I'm sure if you call them and say I want bills fenders he'll probably know which ones. Derek

Well since we're talking castings, patterns and production I feel qualified to weigh in on this one. I usually agree with Tony on stuff as he seems to have a firm handle on this kind of thing. This time he has a death grip. bringing a head like this into production is incredibly costly. The last head pattern I bid on was hitting $25,000.00 and they had all the 3D modeling done. Anything over $200.00 and your market dies right off with most Z owners. At least in the kind of numbers you need to get to justify bringing an item into production. The only thing I've made that has paid off the development costs are the speaker panels I sell. That's why I have to want what ever it is I'm developing. I seriously have well over $25,000.00 in R&D and production on my manifold. When I finally came up with a price on them ( I think it was around $3500.00) I didn't get a single nibble. Which is ok because I did it to get the attention of future pattern customers. And it has more than paid off for that. Now having said that I'm working with a product that is going to change everything. Seriously. I've been too lazy to post about this but this is probably a good time. There is a company in Texas that has equipment that 3D prints bonded foundry sand right from a 3D model. I'm currently working on a few projects with it and it's AMAZING. No patterns. Although this will make me irrelevant in some jobs I'm learning and using the technology so I don't get run over by it. Here is a link to the web site. printed sand It's expensive and you only get one shot with the sand but it's still way cheaper than doing patterns.And you're not tied to a design. I'll be putting together a separate post in a few days with my thoughts on this stuff and a few pics and how I think it's going to change everything. OK I admit it I'm a fan boi but it's just so freaking cool. I never would have done patterns for my manifold I just would have printed the sand and poured it. Derek

Hi Bill Looks great! I think just about everyone (including me) found it easier to cut the tops off. Derek

Personally I don't care for the look. Plus since it's mostly popular with the younger crowd it's done on a shoe string budget. As a fabricator I always enjoy looking at good fab work but that's not always the case. It's more like how fast and cheap can I get this done because I have to drive it to work on Monday style of fabrication. My gut feeling is they would be more comfortable on a site that is dedicated to stance type cars. I can take nuggets of knowledge from any forum on Hybridz and apply it to my car. I'm not sure what I would apply from a stance topic. Just hold fast to the "no texting" style of posting and any problem child will just fade away Derek Get off my yard you punks (said in my best geezer impression)

That's the stuff. Great work on your car. Looks awesome. Derek

The 3M grey acrylic double stick tape is the stuff. It's a little pricy but well worth it. Make sure you get it right the first time because there is no repositioning! Derek

That assumes I know that a 280 is wired differently than a 73 240. I put out what I knew and qualified it with a year and application. But I do apologize if it lead you astray. Derek

Hence my qualifier "The route on the factory wiring on my 73".

One thing I just ran into. I put a 90 amp maxima alternator in a couple of years ago. My charging during the summer was always marginal. I'd have to thow a charger on it at least once a week. This summer I decided to do some checking. To make a long story short you cant run 90 amps of power through a system built for 45 amps. The route on the factory wiring on my 73 is alternator, amp gauge, fuse box, Fusable link, starter, battery. I added an extra 10 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and the problem has gone away. Obviously the amp gauge isn't accurate anymore and at some point soon I'll be doing a major rewire job. Derek

And that fixed it. Thanks Daniel you may have saved my life I guess I should get off of my but and do a proper tune. Thanks again everyone for the help Derek

Thanks for the info guys. I'll check it out tomorrow and post back. Derek

Simultaneous 2 squirt. Map based fuel. TPS based acceleration. I think I'll start data logging and then go out in the parking lot and keep trying to make it happen. I was kind of hoping that someone would be like "yep had the same thing happen to me try XXX" Hey a guy can dream right! I'll post the log when I get something worth looking at. Derek

Ok Maybe it's not that dramatic. I've had this problem since I first set up my megasquirt. My car is a little touchy rolling off of idle. If I release the clutch a little to aggressively the car starts to die and then goes into a full lean condition. Pressing the throttle makes no difference. the only recovery is to restart if it died or shut it down and restart. It has only happened 4 or 5 times but it could be really a problem if I jump out a little to quickly into traffic and the car dies. It seems like it jumps into flood clear mode. Unfortunately it never happens when I'm logging. Has anyone got any ideas on this? Thanks Derek

Not on the radar right now as I have a bunch of pattern commitments. Derek

I think the only lead is the seam between the roof and 1/4 panel and the roof and A pillar. Derek

Crap you beat me to it Foiled again

That must be some kind of magnet!

Zcorp does have a very cool plaster material that works in their machines. You can print a plaster investment mold including cores. Pour in the aluminum and you have a usable part. Derek

I have a stepper IAC on my rig and it's the way to go. It's quite civilized! Running MS2 extra. Derek

You won't regret a trip to Z Mecca!