Derek

Bump Only 2 left! Derek

The bolt holes in the hub are just to get the hub aligned properly. You don't leave them in. The one thing I notice is your screen shot shows an offset of 80 not 60. Derek

Yeah it's really well built. I have one of their tubing notchers for doing copes and it really works great. Derek

Yea I'll be bringing a few kits with me. Derek

Looks good Adam. I guess you won't be driving it over to Bill's on Saturday! Derek

I have thw Williams Low Buck 18" http://www.lowbucktools.com/beadroller.html I've been very happy with it although It's been collecting dust for a while. Derek

My plan so far has been to hold one of the speakers up there and say" yep that'l fit". When I get the 3D work done on them I'll know more. There is a local fiberglass guy here who I may talk to about producing them. I haven't even started any design work yet. Derek

I'm going to be carving up a set in the near future to hold 5 1/4" rounds. I have a few things ahead of them but they are on the short list! I maybe inclined to carve extras. Derek

+1 From me. Derek

Thanks Roger, If I was slow right now I would be working on the patterns here and there but honestly I'm slammed. I have 3 V8 manifold patterns to produce and It's looking pretty good that I'll be doing a bunch of the restoration of disneys main street railings. Really the main thing that kept these from going to market was the fact that they worked right out of the box. If I would have had to re cast them I probably would have made the revisions to the patterns. Derek

Thanks I'm pretty proud! Derek

Thanks. The manifolds work great but in this economy the amount of investment vs return is too iffy right now. When consumer spending starts growing again I'll be considering it. The patterns and core boxes need a lot of work before they would be ready for even a limited production. Derek

I was thinking about selling them but then I saw this at MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7054 For that price including the fans I couldn't do it any cheaper. Plus they look nice. Derek

Here's the order it should go if your going to do it with the por. Apply the por15 to the rust area. When the por is still tacky but not cured spray a coat of epoxy primer over the area. You know the por is ready if you touch it with your finger tip and no por transfers to your finger but still feels tacky. If you paint it too soon the por is still out gassing and it will bubble the primer. After the epoxy primer dries but withing it's cure period (or you have to scuff up the primer) use a resin based filler like duraglass to do the major filling. Sand the duraglass but don't go through the epoxy. If you do recoat. Now use bondo to feather out the repair. Now you can go to your high fill primer. The epoxy primer is waterproof and that's the barrier between moisture and the metal. At least that's how I did it! Derek

Funny you should ask. When I'm building stuff I'm always thinking can I sell a few. I went to MSA yesterday to look at radiator stuff and what did I see... BAM http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/16-7054 So for 250.00 with the fans I don't think I could sell them any cheaper. Had I known they existed I probably would have bought one! Derek

Here's what I ended up with http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1071139#post1071139 Derek

I was really hoping that a Taurus fan would work on my L6 but the general consensus was that it would require a bunch of cutting to fit. I scrapped that idea and decided to make a shroud to hold 2 of the el cheapo 12" fans on ebay. Zmanco and a few others on the board have been running them with out any problems. There really isn't a ton of room to work with. I have a motorsports 3 core radiator. The shroud is about 1/2" thick I routed out .063" sheet pre drilling for the fans and mounting tabs. I had to do the tabs seperatly because the "Z" dimension was too small for my brake. It's times like these that I wish I had a water jet machine! After brake work I was going to TIG up the corners but I got a really good seam so I went with it. Cutting the side brackets in the mill I switched the connectors over to weatherpacks. Everything fits great. This is the last of the electrical stuff I'm adding so I can finally redo the wiring. I have them controled with megasquirt. It's 90 degrees out right now and the car sat and idled at 180. That's cooler than it would have with the stock fan. The fans are surprisingly quiet. Thanks for looking Derek

When I upgraded my carputer to the Atom 330 I was toying with the idea of running the mac OS. Unfortunately lack of a decent navigation software kept me with windoz. Now if the tablet runs the iphone software Tom Tom becomes an option. I have trouble incorporating a 7" screen in my car so 10" seems like impossible to me. Derek

Another vote for rage extreme. Lays out well, high degree of self leveling, sands easily. Derek

I wanted one of those Kameari units from the first time I saw one. Then I saw the price........ $8.50 per valve was what I was quoted as well. For that kind of money I don't see any reason not to use them. Derek

I'm going with Stainless N42 valves http://www.sivalves.com/ocforeign_valvessp_nis.html and a Isky regrind on a nissan cam. Derek

He used the biggest words so he wins!!!!! Plus it was what I wanted to hear. 6061 it is. I hate to be cheap but every dime has to count in this economy. The head and cam towers are a casting alloy and I doubt that the heads been heat treated. The cam towers probably are though. so the shims will probably be stronger then the base. Derek

I was just getting ready to reply that Mcmaster only has .080 in 6061 (which I already bought) and decided to check again. They have 2024 in .080. It's 33.00 for a 12" x 12" sheet. Are you sure that 6061 won't work:o Derek

Hi Tony I was wondering if I was missing something in my analysis of using aluminum as shim material as opposed to steel. Believe me there's a lot I'm missing on the entire project! Derek

I'm going to be doing the shave .080" P90 trick and I need to shim up the cam towers. My plan is to machine out the spacers from some 6061 T6 .080" sheet I have. I measured the sheet with my Starrett high precision mike and there is virtually no difference in thickness. I'm also thinking the thermal coefficients will be more equal as they're similar metals just a different alloy as opposed to aluminum head, steel shim, aluminum cam tower. Am I missing something? Thanks Derek Oh and does anyone have a DWG or DXF of the cam tower shims? (Dreaming)