Derek

I tried it out yesterday and was quite impressed. It's under a tab called "VE Analyze Live". There doesn't seem to be a manual yet but it's pretty intuitive. I was running a little rich at idle. I reset my AFR table and turned on auto tune. Slowly but surely it dialed it right in to the AFR I requested. No fuss no muss. Derek

Nice work! That's also the same color my 73 was. The paint scheme has nice a 70's feel about it. Me likee Derek

Happy birthday!!!!! 10 years ago I was 40....Has anyone seen my walker? Derek

Looks nice. Derek

funny but the narration needs punching up. Think Dan Dykroyd and the Basomatic http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4iYI_43UpZc

Looks good. Don't put a center bar in if you can help it, like the evolution has. If you move up to a pedal set with a clutch the center bar is a pain. That' whay I set mine up as a hoop. Derek

Thanks. The pedal box was a big improvement. I set everything up like it was the 240 so it's comfortable to me. Derek

Here's what I came up with using one of my old seats. I pulled the pedals out of the G25 and hung them. Made a big difference. Derek

Kind of sorta maybe. If I can get three firm orders from reputable forum members (that leaves you out) then I'll start the next private conversation with those three as to how to make it happen and the time frames involved. Well considering I own Datsunworks.com I'm imagining that will be on there somewhere! Until nissan sends me the cease and desist order that is. Then they'll really be collectible. Shoot me a pm and we can set up a time to talk.

Thanks. Boy you got that right! The castings are just a minor part of everything it takes to make these run. There is a huge amount of machining and fitting that has to happen. I put the pricing up because people were asking. Even if I get firm orders for three that won't cover the expense of updating the patterns for production. Realistically no one is falling over themselves to buy a set. Derek

I've had a Sycrowave 250 for about 15 years now. It's a great machine for SS and aluminum. I wouldn't go much lower than a 250 if aluminum is in your future. A 180 will be like trying to drive 10 penny nails with a tack hammer. you'll get there but it takes some time! Derek

Is this what your looking for http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=149652&highlight=led

Yes I am a capitalist pig! Thanks for all the kind words guys. I think the pricing is pretty fair but the proof will be in the puddin. Right now i don't plan to sell any of the parts separately out of the groups. Derek

I've posted some theoretical pricing here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1109515#post1109515 Thanks Derek

Well I guess the time has come to put some pricing up for my EFI manifold. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129941 This still doesn't mean I'm going to produce them. I know that sounds snarky but I figure this will separate the wheat from the chaff. I can then decide what I'm going to do from there. The first thing to remember is they aren't cheap. You can absolutely buy less expensive ITB setups. There is a ton of hand work producing these. The only reason to justify spending the money is for the looks. And to me they're worth every penny! Ok lots of pennies. I've broken it into three pieces. Manifolds, linkages and fuel delivery. Manifolds including throttle shafts and butterflies $2100.00 Linkage including 6 arms and 5 links with rod ends. $385.00 Fuel delivery. Injector hold downs. Stainless lines and distribution block $750.00 I don't have pricing worked up yet on the vacuum log. As with everything these prices are subject to change. If I do decide to produce I'll only take orders for 3 and then revisit the pricing. Thanks Derek

Hopefully you figured it out. The bracket is slotted and pivots on the 8MM bolt. This allows you to set the air gap. Derek

If you set up your edis wheel like this illustration the timing will be very close. If it isn't then the problem is in how you have Megasquirt set up. The key-way which lines up with the damper bolts is at the 12 o'clock position and notice the relationship between the missing tooth and the sensor. You can mount the wheel backwards and this would throw things out of whack. I can't rember. are you using a laser cut wheel or did I modify an ford wheel for you. Derek

Well it's working on mine but that probably doesn't count! Does the COP use the ford edis control box or just the sensor? If it doesn't and you have the edis wheel set up like the picture in my instructions http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153367 then the problem is in the Megasquirt. If it does use the EDIS brain then it sould run in limp mode with the Megasquirt disconnected. Derek

Hi Jeff I saw a dark haired guy walking around with a grassroots name tag on that was about that age. Derek

Went down to PRI in Orlando on Friday. Part business part pleasure. Called a couple of friends and they said Meet us at the Grassroots booth we're talking to Pete Brock. So I head over there and on a whim I pull up a picture of my manifold on my phone and showed it to him. He was pretty impressed. He asked me for a business card and wrote "cool L6 intake" on the back and put it in his pocket. Now that made my day. Derek

I'm just getting a list of people interested so I can see if it's feasible to make another run. Derek

Hi Ross The patches behind the 1/4 glass are fine. In the right light I can see the seam on the dog leg splice. Some of this may be due to shrinkage. I had a limited time to get the car done so I had to rush the cure times on the primers. I've got shrinkage in a few other areas as well. I should have let the high fill sit for a couple of weeks before I sanded. It's a daily so it's no big deal. Better prep may have made a difference on the seam as well. I was really powering through everything. I didn't strip the car so rust that I did'nt uncover during the body work is starting to pop up. My plan was to get a decent paint job on it. Fix the small rust spots that pop up over a couple of years Then repaint. Of course I'll have to do it again and again and again....... Derek

Hi Paul. Any thoughts on a L28 std bore with dished pistons and a shaved .080 P90 . With a felpro gasket that gets me (according to the L engine calculator) 8.3:1. This is with a 46cc combustion chamber. My bottom end in in perfect shape and with all this talk going on about loosing timing points due to detonation I'm hesitant to change the pistons. Plus it's a lot of extra work! I also don't see pump gas getting any better as time goes on. Thanks Derek

The console is brand new. The panel that holds the switches is done with SEM texture paint and SEM trim black.Both rattle cans. Those products are a must have for interior work. Derek

I used contoura rocker switches in mine. http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz_Contura-Panel-Switches_W0QQ_fsubZ5284440QQ_sacatZGenuinedealzQ5fQ5fW0Q51Q51Q5ffsubQ5A5284440Q51Q51Q5fscQ5A1Q51Q51Q5fsopQ5A2QQ_scZ1QQ_sidZ779049QQ_sopZ2 Derek [url=http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz_Contura-Panel-Switches_W0QQ_fsubZ5284440QQ_sacatZGenuinedealzQ5fQ5fW0Q51Q51Q5ffsubQ5A5284440Q51Q51Q5fscQ5A1Q51Q51Q5fsopQ5A2QQ_scZ1QQ_sidZ779049QQ_sopZ2][/url]