Derek

I hear ya With this crowd you never no what to expect! Actually everything I sell is artwork and only meant for display purposes only. I never imagined anyone would try and use these items on anything as vulgar as an automobile. Hows that for a disclaimer. Derek

It will be installed in January but running..... Hopefully I can get my arms around the whole megasquirt injection setup. Time to contact Speeder and see if his offer from a year and a half ago is still in play. It's the angle of the dangle. The clips are tight but you can get them on and off without removing the line. And your right there's no turning the injector. Not only will it hit the linkage arm but it negates design criteria #1 "Looks Cool" I'll make them available as soon as I get the manifold squared away. Although I did pressure test the clamp and injector at 125 psi with no leaks so I guess I got the bore size right! Derek

Too late. 5" round magnaflow resonator and a Magnafow straight through oval as the muffler. Sounds sweet. And in a few weeks should sound even sweeter! Derek

Well since Phar pointed out just how fugly the clamps were without the radius edge I had to add it to the final design. And I'm glad I did! Thanks for the push, it definitely made a big difference in the look. Check out that awesome chatter in the cuts. People pay big bucks for that you know. I guess I'm going to have to splurge and get some decent mills. Now on to the injector line looms. Derek

One Quart of the official goo will be arriving on Monday or Tuesday. Which is a good thing as it looks like I'll be starting the install on Monday or Tuesday!! Busted butt and got far enough ahead of the foundry to get it started. I won't be able to stick with it exclusively so I'm figuring on a 2 week window. Derek

Here's how I plan to do it. 5/16" hose from fuel tank drain plug conversion to lift pump. lift pump to surge tank. surge tank to high pressure pump. high pressure pump to 5/16 metal line passengers side. 1/4" return to surge tank. 3/16" line becomes atmospheric vent for tank. The vent to the filler neck is there for refueling only.You would need to T into that 3/4" line at the filler neck and run that either to the front of the car via the 3/16" line or vent it to the atmosphere in the rear of the car. Not a great idea as the fumes may find their way into the cabin. You should also add a rollover valve at the T. If you come up with on let me know as I haven't found one yet. If you don't T off of the filler neck and just use one of the extra fittings on the tank every time you fill up fuel will find it's way through the vent line. If it's in the 3/4" line at the neck it's mostly above the fuel level. This part I know from experience! Derek

The old cumulative error problem. And that's my biggest fear. I'm going around and around on the goo. As Tony has said before there is a very real problem of build up of crud between the butterfly and bore. So much so that ford got a patent specifically for their goo. BMW uses it as well. Heck even Rochester used it on their tri-power setups. The DAG 213 is a dry lubricant that just so happens to provide a bit of sealing depending on how it's applied. Put it on a bore surface and install the butterfly and it's a lubricant. Paint it on a bore with the butterfly installed and it's a sealer and lubricant. Here's my reasoning for buying the goo. 1) It's my daily driver and I want it to be dependable. 2) I'm hoping to sell a few of these and I want them to be the best quality. 3) In the time it will take me to pull the manifold and apply the DAG I can earn more than $95.00 4) I've spent many thousands in time (not hobby time but pattern making a living time) and materials on this rig so what's another $95.00 I'm ordering it today. Derek

In April it will be just over 2 years. I'm not sure of the status of the manifold. Derek

When I first started my lust for a unique intake for my car I figured a triple SU would be cool. I then learned the Z Therapy had already made one and had a video on you tube. I called out there and talked to them about making the patterns for them. They said that they had already secured a pattern maker to produce the patterns. That's when I started looking for something else to make and the rest is history... or at least in a few weeks it should be history. All and all I'm glad it turned out the way it did! Derek

I'll get right on it! Derek

Here's more info for the "wiki" I never knew they were vented either. I was looking for alternatives to the way I was currently ventiing so I investigated the cap. Derek

Well I got back on the old google and came up with a source for the DAG 213 that will sell me a quart. It's 95.00 plus shipping. They're going to see if they can sell me a pint but either way I'm going for it. $95.00 is very cheap insurance. Her's a link to the data sheet if anyone is interested http://www.laddresearch.com/SpecSheets/LaddDAG213.pdf It's a baked on product. I'll have to do some trials first. Not sure how resilient it is. If it's too hard then the high area of the butterfly will just hit the DAG and continue to leave a gap. If it's flexible it will allow the butterfly to sink and create a seal. Derek

Hi Carter Unfortunately that would require a redesign on the levers and linkage so that won't be happening right now. Thanks for the input though. Hi Kevin Well it was your idea to use the needle valves to begin with. I have spys everywhere!Actually I was looking at the IAC housing at DIY auto tune and the log on your site and figured that needs to be all one piece. Then the visual of the needle valves with the lines running over to the runners just sealed the deal. I had to have it! That's my original plan. I'll establish a base line on the butterflies and then decide if I need to make changes. Right now I'm trying to get a feel for all this so that if I have a problem I'll have plan be ready to go. I can't get started on the install yet so I might as well work this crap out in the meantime. I couldn't come up with any unless I bought $500.00 worth. That coating is really more of an antifouling/sticking compound anyway.I'd rather have it work without anything. This is really just a problem with the prototypes. There were a couple of areas I needed to be more precise on and kind of blew it. The embedded stainless tube idea is a winner. I just need to make a couple of changes in the way I align everything prior to the pour. Well It's my understanding that the needle valves introduce a small amount of air just behind the butterfly but in front of the balance tube. This simulates cracking the throttle plate a little. The needles are just for synchronization. The base idle is set manually with the large idle screw on the log. The IAC is for controlling cold start. And as far as mounting the IAC in the manifold it can't possibly look as cool as the log...I mean did you see that thing!! Sniff...Sniff... I'm so proud.... Derek

Well I figured with your background I'd be hearing from you on this one! INFORMATION OVERLOAD!!!! I need to backup a bit and get a little egimikated on this hear synchronization thing. So we have idle synchronization and off idle synchronization. In a perfect world the butterflies would be air tight and the idle would be handled with the base idle screw. there would be no need for idle synchronization. The off idle synchronization would be handled with the needle valves on the log. Since I built this with a broad ax the butterflies are not perfect so I need a method of synchronizing them at idle. Or I need a way to get the butterflies as airtight as possible at idle. I was running under the assumption that when the needle valves are set at idle then this would make all things equal the the off idle would follow suit. Derek

Just how in the hell am I going to synchronize these things! I'm thinking my old Uni-Syn just ain't gonna cut it. Motion Pro sells this: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0411 And Morgan sells this: http://www.carbtune.co.uk/c.com/index.html Obviously since they're for a four cylinder I'll have to do it in stages. The Morgan seems to get generally better reviews. Thanks Derek

Man I really hope so!

Thanks Pete. It was really straight forward. Drill a hole all the way through to the vacuum passage. pocket for o-ring, pocket for idle valve. So If I charge $1400.00 I'll be giving everyone a bargain!!! It does look spiffy though. Maybe $1450.00 Derek

I'm doing a bunch of 3D scanning so I had some free time in between setups so I did the machine work on the log. Now that's pretty tough looking! The spring under the base idle screw will be replaced with something a little nicer. The production model will have bigger mounting tabs as well as a second core for the vacuum side. I did a simple cross drill on this one but there was a large amount of mass in the casting which can cause problems in the metal. The second core will lighten the casting as well as create a larger reservoir for the vacuum. Derek

Not this weekend. Just paid all the bills and checked the bank. YIKES!!! Warning...account below comfort level. Probably going to take me a couple weeks to get back ahead of the curve. Derek

Thanks Phar The individual EGT sensors are merely a way for me to analyze the performance of the individual runners. Assuming the injectors are flow matched (supposedly they are) and Megasquirt delivers consistant amounts of fuel (it should) then any anomilies in temperatures can (sorta maybe) be atributed to intake design or assembly. The carputer has a 7" touchscreen. Derek

Crap I wish I had seen that before I got the kit from Dakota. I'll get ahold of Rostra. I'll bet they sell the cable separately. Thanks for the heads up Derek

Yes it's my first divorce! So Sad..... Everything you ever need to know about carputers http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/ Right now mine has my music, GPS navigation, and I integrated Megatune into it. I'm working on a better solution than Megatune as the gauges are tiny tiney incy wincy little things! Derek

Hi Carter Glad to see we finally found a subject that piques your interest. Thanks for the info. I checked Mcmaster for the thermocouples but they were a bit pricey. Probably better than the ones I'm looking at but still pricey! Check out this schematic from the innovate site: And here's the description from Klaus who I think is an engineer there: "Attached is the AD595 circuit for EGT measurement. With a minimum of 13V supply voltage it measures up to 1100 deg C (2012 deg F). Set the LogWorks input to: 0V = 32 deg F (0 deg C) 5V = 2012 deg F (1100 deg C) The AD595 can handle a supply voltage of up to 36 Volts. So it can run on a car's 12V supply without any regulator. Minimum supply voltage required to go up to 1100 deg C is 13V, which should be no problem for most cars. Lower supply voltage just reduces the max temp, not the measurement. The AD595 outputs 10mV/deg C, up to a max of supply voltage - 2V. The divider circuit of R1 and R2 divides the AD595 output by 5/11. R1 and R2 should be 1% resistors. Wattage for the resistors does not matter (1/10th Watt is enough). The Zener diode protects the LM-1 if the AD595 fails. The capacitors of 0.1uF and 10uF filter noise. R3 is required only if the TK used has an isolated junction. On those there is no continuity between the TK wires and the TK body. Type K TKs have color coded wires. Yellow and red. I don't recall which one is which. If you hook them up wrong you won't damage anything, but it will not measure." You can see he's using R1 and R2 to reduce the output. I don't know if this method reduces accuracy or not. Keep in mind they're using this for EGT reading to a 0-5v gauge so it should work for the fusion brain. I found this place (I'm sure there's others) to make the circuit boards. http://www.expresspcb.com/index.htm I was toying with the idea of making them myself but for that kind of pricing it's just not worth it. I'm not sure how many inputs to have on the board. Once I'm done testing the manifold 6 inputs should be plenty for any temp sensing I want to do. One for EGT, one for oil temp, ok that's all that come to mind but I'm sure there will be others. Derek

Well about 5 hours ago I had no Idea what I was going to do! At this point I'm probably going with 6 of the AD595 on a separate board. Digikey has them for $11.00 each. I found this post on the innovate forum that has a lot of good info: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=371&highlight=ad595 You probably have this but I'll post it for others PDF for the AD595 http://www.analog.com/static/imported-files/data_sheets/AD594_595.pdf Am I correct in thinking that you can vary the range that it reads by changing the value of a resistor or am I confused. I was planning on getting the Fusion Brain anyway and I have a Fluke pyrometer so I can always read the thermocouples individually. We may want to spin this off to another thread if there's interest. Derek

Here's what I'm thinking 6 of these Running into one of these http://www.fusioncontrolcentre.com/FusionStore//catalog/product_info.php?products_id=62 hooked up to this My current carputer With this skin But with 6 inputs labeled cylinders 1-6 I'm pretty sure this is doable. I just need to calculate whether the resolution of the fusion brain will give me an accurate enough reading. it's 10 bit over a 0-5v input if any of you geniuses out there know what the hell that means. I don't! The software has data logging over all the inputs. $59.00 for the brain 7.00 each for the thermocouples carputer already installed Cool factor........ Priceless Derek