Derek

Anyone have any experience with these? http://www.expressfuelpumps.com/autoteq-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-universal-p-3802.html Thanks Derek

I would get 2 rolls of this http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr Derek

I need to buy one! like everyone I'm looking for something nice but cheap. Must be silver in color. Can anyone recommend a brand. Thanks Derek

Yes i have a low pressure lift pump. All right then everything in the top. That makes it a lot easier. Thanks Derek

Hi Pete It's an external tank. mounted in the rear. My only thought on dumping everything in the top was at extended idle situations won't there be the potential for the fuel to get kind of warm since there won't be a lot of replenishment from the main tank. Thanks Derek

Last week I made a set of press dies to form the air filter screens. The dies came out great but I wasn't at all happy with the results. Since I don't have any parts I decided to work on my technique and see if I could come up with a workable solution. Needless to say I'm very happy. They look exactly like I had envisioned and you can't ask for anything more than that. At this point I think I'm going to retain them with an oring stretched across the front of the screens. Now I need to make a set of dies to form the inner basket to support the foam. I sure am glad converted that lathe to CNC! Derek

Ok since nothing showed up UPS on Friday I"m kind of at a standstill on the manifold. I figure I'll get started on the surge tank next. I've got some 4" ID 4 1/2" OD aluminum pipe in stock. The plan is to make a surge tank that will house an Walbro in-tank pump. I'll weld in a flange that's drilled and tapped and grooved for an o-ring. The top plate will house the fittings as well as the insulated lugs for the fuel pump wires. Should I put the bung for the inlet on the side towards the bottom so that cool fuel from the tank is supplied to the motor? Derek

Actually I temporarily removed the block heater when I installed the EDIS and have missed it ever since. The car is harder to start, runs poorly, and get's terrible mileage since I only drive 3 miles to the shop. I haven't put it back in yet because I was waiting to finish the EFI install but it WILL be going back in! Derek

Well at least you gave me a little honey first! Well as far as performance goes this is my design criteria from my first post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121021 So here's my design criteria: #1 Look Cool #2 Look Really Cool #3 Actually Run Realistically as long as it makes the same power as a stock 280 injection manifold I'll be happy. The runners are all the same length. The #1 and #6 runners obviously have the worst angle of attack but I tried to minimize it by gently curving the runner inside the casting. So in other words the casing may look straight but internally it curves. I'm glad that people actually take the time to look for potential problems in the design. My biggest fear is that some one points something out that's a deal breaker on this. Especially this late in the game. I started this project to show potential clients what I could accomplish as a pattern maker using modern 3D computer design and CNC machines. To this end it's been a huge success for me. It moved me into another class of pattern makers and that has translated into steady work! In hind sight it seems silly to put all this work into this manifold and not try to squeeze every bit of power out of it. But the reality is most of these projects never get out of the discussion stage and I didn't want to fall into that trap. At some point you need to pull the trigger and actually build something. But at least it looks cool, and looks really cool. So two out of three aint bad! Derek

Yes the photobucket has a lot of stuff I didn't bother posting. I figured you guy's would only be interested in the cream of the crop! OK you've just confused the crap out of me! Maybe too much nog. So if the the injector needs to float (makes sense) I'll just machine some tubes to length and put them between the cap and the manifold, then torque them down. The staking I'm referring to is the butterfly screws. Is this what your rambling.... i mean talking about:-| I'm so confused! Derek

Merry Xmas everyone! I like to think of it more of a racing mechanical injection look as opposed to an old diesel look! That's why I quit poring my own stuff and started concentrating on the pattern work. Professional foundries are set up so much better than backyard foundries for proper melting and degassing techniques. There is so much voodoo involved in pouring metal. Oh THOSE clips...... I didn't have any clips-connectors when I did the design so I was conservative with the amount of spacing I left. Unfortunately they sit really high. I have clips coming on Friday so I can finalize the design. Thanks Daeron. Hopefully in a few weeks we'll be hearing it run! If I can just shake this freeking cold. Derek

Hi Phar I'll be throwing the injector mounts in a tumbler that will break the edge. Here's what I'm planning for the fuel lines. I have stainless tubing for the lines. Derek

Hey Tony Can I use brass screws. They would be a lot easier to stake. Thanks Derek

Thanks Pete. Sorry only available with the purchase of a manifold! No problem. I can make up some for you guys. I need to stretch them out a hair if you want them to fit the stock bolt pattern. Hi Jeff Thanks. Wait till I get the lines on! No clips. The 2 screws compress the injector to make the seal.

Starting to feel better the last couple of days so I put a little time in on the manifold. Linkage complete Injector hold down clamp. This ended up being a prototype as I didn't have my plugs in yet. I thought I had everything figured but they're a little high. I should have the plugs in on Friday and I'll do redesign. Air temperature sensor bung worked out perfectly. I also made my butterfly jig for the lathe. Worked like a champ. I did a couple of test pieces and the fit was much better. I still have a tiny crack of light but I'm hoping I can get that figured out. All the machine and hand work is done to the manifolds. I'm headding down to another foundry on Friday to throw them back in the Wheeabrader machine for a final finishing. Then I can start the final machining of the butterflies and the final assembly!!! I'm getting scarred. I might actually have to put this on my car soon! Got a question on the butterfly screws. Any problems using brass as they'll be easier to stake? Thanks Derek

Well the news is not good. I'm sick as a dog right now. I've been afraid to work on them because I can't concentrate and I don't want to make a pile of scrap! Went to the doc today and got some meds so I should be back on track next week. Sorry again for the delay. Derek

Be careful Chuck or you'll end up like me!

I left the throttle shafts long so I can add torsion spring on the bottom. Braking induced movement (news to me but makes sense) works to my advantage. Sick as a dog right now but managed to get the parting lines cleaned up on the rear manifold. I shipped it back over to the foundry for shot finishing. I'm heading down to another foundry on Friday to cast the vacuum log. MUST FINISH MANIFOLD (In my best William Shatner impersonation) Derek

Springs......We don't need no stinking springs!!! Unsure how the throttle is going to work. Originally I hoped to make the stock bell crank work but I won't really know until it's on the car. That's the only thing I'm leaving till the end. Besides I don't need an accelerator pedal to start it! I see a few over night deliveries in my future. Derek

It's big, it's heavy, it's wood. Ok it's Corian and it's not really heavy. Got the pattern done for the log today and I'm about halfway through with the core mold. The X axis motor on my router decided to take a crap on me and proceeded to start to chew up the pattern. Nothing that a little duraglass couldn't fix. The protrusion to the left is the core print and won't be part of the casting. Derek

Thanks for the vote of confidence Tony. I feel like I've addressed most of the problems with my design. But the devils in the details. I'll make castings available on a case by case basis. I'm worried about someone having problems with the machining and then creating a bad name for the product. Made the big order with Mcmaster Carr today. Brass sheet for the butterflies (easier to machine than stainless) Stainless steel seamless tube for the injection lines, fittings and a really cool knurled screw for my main idle air bleed. I also ordered up all the stuff for from UNI Filter for my air filters. Time for the big push. I'm carving the vacuum log pattern and core box tomorrow. Then I'm getting started on the rest of the handwork on the manifolds. I'm having trouble coming up with the DAG 213 for the bores. The guy on ebay is out and he should have it in a couple of weeks. I found it from a distributor but I have to make a $500.00 purchase!!! At this point I'm feeling pretty good about where I'm at with everything. I'm really hoping to have this on the car the beginning of January. I mean really hoping! Derek Oh and thanks a lot I see I'm now "That Horny Z Guy" But of course I'm from Ocala where the men are men and the sheep are nervous!

Well in my mind Mikunis are worth more than that:-| Originally I was going to sell the raw castings but these are only as good as the machine work. I see lots of potential for problems if they're not done properly. We're really getting ahead of ourselves here. These things may run like crap and not idle at all. Here's all I'll say about pricing until they're running on my car. They won't be cheep! No more talk of pricing as it will suck all of the fun out! And there's a long way to go before they're running! Derek

Thanks Well considering a used set of Mikunis goes for $1300 -1500 I don't think your going to see a three figure price! There's a lot of work in these things and realistically there's a very small market for this stuff. I'm not ready to throw any prices out yet but I can guarantee you they will be more expensive than a used set of Mikunis! A lot more. Thanks Derek

Well I just priced some brass sheet .063 thick. 12" x 12" $40.00 Yikes. I may have some .080 brass but that's getting a little thick. I have a bunch of 316 16 gauge stainless that I'm going to try first. The bores have a stainless liner so wear won't be an issue. derek

Hi Tony I originally chose the aluminum for the butterflies because I saw that Kinsler used 2024 for theirs. Of course this was for a race application not street. What started me thinking on this was since there are no throttle stops it's just the butterflies slamming shut each throttle closing. I could see the aluminum deforming over time. I think I'll go with stainless first and if it becomes a pain to work with I'll switch to brass. The alodine is a good idea. I've used it before on other applications but always under paint. One method I've used on sculptural applications is to heat the aluminum and then brush on butchers wax. you then give it a good wiping down. This keeps it an aluminum color. I'll order up some alodine and do some tests with both and see which one I like best.