Pop N Wood

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294924496+4294839052+4294847273+4294807310+115+4294901865 With the price of gas and your time on-line auto parts is the way to go.

I change my own oil because it takes longer to drive to the oil change place then it does to do it myself. Our local landfill has a recycle center so getting rid of the oil is no problem at all. At least you found it before a stalling engine keyed you into a problem. I actually ran a car out of oil once because of a bad oil filter. Drove for a week or two with the car getting harder and harder to start before it finally died on me. That is when I noticed no oil. Came back the next day to tow it and decieded to try filling it with oil and see if it starts. (I was only 17). Imagine my joy when it started and ran. Sat there reving it thinking all was OK. Looked in the rear view mirror I thought there was something wrong with the mirror. I couldn't see anything. That is when I noticed traffic for 4 blocks behind me was stopped because I had layed down a layer of smoke so dense no one could see 10 feet. Poor old big block olds.

Being cheap has it's advantages. Like being too cheap to pay for oil changes.

No, it will do it while driving too. It is just worse when you brake.

Maybe those long right hand turns put less stress on them than the long left hand turns.

They put GPS units in artilliary shells so durability doesn't have to be an issue. Go to summit racing or jegs and find a digital speedo you like. They also sell sender units that hook into a mechanical drive and convert it to electronic.

the vibrations could be warped brake rotors. the whistle could be the low brake pad wear indictors. Check your front brakes. And while you are under there check all of your front end parts.

Go to ls1tech.com and start searching. There are a bunch of guys there putting down very serious HP with LS motors. The big dogs do gravitate toward the iron blocks from truck motors. Lots of opinion posted there on what each block will tolerate.

Trucks are usually cammed for low end torque and a nice fat powerband. Sometimes they match that with narrow runner heads and intakes to keep the flow velocities up. All of that means they don't always breathe well at higher RPMS thus giving up ultimate performance for low end grunt.

Maybe your roof isn't as straight as you think.

OK just have to ask, nothing personal. Did you check to make sure it is blowing in the right direction?

I have done this a few times. Just keep it well ventilated with plain ole air and you will be fine. The inert gas isn't going to do you any good unless you can keep it continuously filled with the stuff. Plus you will have to go through the better part of a cylinder to display all the air in the first place. Trust me.

I just drained mine and rinsed it out with water. I also made sure I vented it well before drilling or welding on it. I placed an air hose inside the tank and left in on when working. Don’t let the air stagnate. There were a couple of recent threads on modifying tanks that I thought were quite excellent. Had lots of pictures and excellent ideas on how to build an internal swirl pot. Using the drain plug is common, but since you don’t mind welding on the tank I think you can do better. Coming in through the side of the tank will keep the stock look. Ahh. Here it is. It contains a link to an earlier thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120951

Mounting the compressor up in the trusses and installing a distribution system from 3/4 inch copper will free up usable floor space.

Google has always been able to search a designated web site. What is different now?

How many have you replaced because they failed a monthly inspection? And would you have bought the MM ones had they been available back when you actively raced?

Well I was hoping more people with first hand experience would chime in. My biggest worry is the degree of damage that could result should one fail while driving. When the stub breaks the whole wheel comes off the car. Rear disk brakes will at least keep the wheel in the vicinity of the car. I don't know what the risk of breakage is but I do know the potential damage when they go is totally unacceptable to me.

Read what again exactly? I didn't read all of Pete's stuff cause the equations were pretty easy to derive. If I use Vinh's numbers for the sender resistance and the guage numbers from Teakass's link, I can't get a solution that doesn't require negative resistances. I did double check it with Pete's spreadsheet and it said no solution also. I ran it a second time with the numbers you posted for the Ford guage (which summit doesn't carry in the style that Teakass linked) and that had no solution also. Maybe the sender numbers are not correct, or maybe there is a solution that is close but not exact. Do you remember what resistance values you used?

This has come up before and I think most people say there is no real reason to go bigger on brake lines. Especially with stainless steel flex lines. You're just not moving much fluid. I have read articles saying bigger line should be used for clutch hydraulics since they have to move a larger volume of fluid quickly. There is (or at least should be) a larger movement in a clutch TOB than in a brake caliper.

You might need to buy a separate bulkhead to AN fitting and then an AN to tube adaptor Can't say I have ever seen exactly what you are looking for. you could try looking on the earls site or Russell site for the part number then google that.

If the numbers Vinh gave for the sensor resistance is correct (and I have not reason to believe otherwise), then Pete's method isn't going to work for this solution. There might be a way to hook up a passive resistor network different from Pete's that returns the correct results, but it would require too much thought on my part right now. It could almost certainly be done with some type of active (op-amp) circuit. But For $25 just send the guage to Autometer and have them do it. Personnally I like the cheesy look of the stock guages.

summit racing, jegs, a gazillion other mail order places.

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and take it into a shop. Especially if you need it for work. This type of thing is difficult to troubleshoot over the web so it is not like I am not being helpful.

This place has an excellent rep for selling motor/trans pull outs They have a complete 95 impala SS pull out for under a grand http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LT1-and-LT4-Engines_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ3QQftidZ2QQtZkm Looks like the price of LS1 motors have gone down a bit in the last year. The 2001/2002 motors are more desireable due to better intakes and block oiling. Corvette motors just cost more than the F body motor (don't know why). Manual trans pull outs are a good bit more than autos. http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_LS1-LS6-LS2-Engines_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ2QQftidZ2QQtZkm Prices on LS2 motors are such that you are probably better off buying a new crate motor.

I have a metal yard/fabrication shop near me that has bins full of scrap aluminum and stainless they sell for $2 a pound. I'll bet I can recreate ZR8ED's pan for $25 Got me thinking now.....