Pop N Wood

I like that set up. I had a drawing of the stock FP mount but it wasn't obvious from the illustration I had how it mounted. Also my 1970 doesn't seem to have the same mounting brackets. You can kind of see that in my first pic. There is a hole, but no bracket. I thought about doing something similar but I didn't like how far down the mounting bracket had to come. I also was thinking about what would happen should a halfshaft fail. I guess the stock bracket will sheild the pump from that. I'll have to look closer tonight.

I am not a big fan of the whinney bitch TV realtity shows. After 15 years of marriage I have had my fill of that type of drama. I stopped watching American Chopper for the same reason.

If nothing else buying a complete conversion will save you big bucks. Most completed V8 conversions sell for a fraction of what they cost to build. Whether it saves you any time I guess depends on what you are looking for and how picky you are. A lot of the converted cars look to me like they are being sold because the builder lost interest in them. They often look like various shortcuts were taken. Establishing a plan and building it yourself is the only way to make certain everything is done correctly for what you want to do.

So the stock radiator works, there is no fabricating for heater hook ups, can use the sr20 fan and controller, the temp sensor fits the stock connector and runs the 280 guage correctly, and I guess can even reuse the stock hoses with no mods or replacements needed? So with 1K profit that means maybe $1k to source the running turbo motor with transmission, radiator, intercooler, piping, CPU and harness. That leaves $500 for miscellaneous fittings, connectors, headers, exhaust clamps, aircleaner ducting, vacuum lines, wire wrap, heat sheilds, bolts, nuts, WD40, oil, brake fluid, clutch linkage, throttle linkage, antifreeze, motor mounts, trans mounts, band aids, beer.... And I guess the stock driveshaft is a bolt up, the stock 280 fuel pump is more than adequate for the added HP and the stock speedo and tach mesh right up to that 4 banger?

Looks like a fire waiting to happen. Don't spill anything.

The costs for fuel, exhaust, water and instrumentation would eat that budget up, both in dollars and in time. I can see if a guy knew what he was doing and had the majority of the fab work done before hand that you could get one in in 6 hours. But to have it a drivable car with everything working seems hard to imagine.

All of the on line parts retailers sell coils of 1/2 inch aluminum hard line. Something like $25 for a a 25 foot coil. More than enough to do a Z. I bought the 90-10 copper nickle stuff from a place in England. It can be used as either fuel line or brake lines. So yeah, brake line can be used as fuel line. Just get the right diameter

The fact he has yet to order them probably doesn't have anything to do with it. The suspension pics look like they came right off the Arizonia Z car web site.

The top part is just drilled and tapped into the car cross piece. To mount the bottom, I sandwiched a piece of sheet metal behind the two bolts that hold the rear diff cross member to the down piece. I bent the sheet metal part into kind of a Z shape. In the bottom pic you can see two screws just behind the pump that secure the upper bracket to the sheet metal Z. You have to do some filing on the sheet metal peice to clearance the bolts and control arm.

Summit and Jegs sell everytype of fuel connectors imaginable.

I tried mounting my pump to the metal piece that comes down to the control arm mount. Half a dozen drill bits later I gave up. What I did do is build a metal bracket that mounted to a sheet metal cross brace just above the mustache bar, then fit kinda of a double L shaped sheet metal bracket under the control arm bolts to mount the bottom of it. Should work great.

Summit sells braided line in almost any length with almost any type of ends imaginable. They also sell metric to AN adapters.

For the flanges https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html For the shaft http://www.pstds.com/custom_driveshafts.htm The driveshaft place may have the flanges, but JTR is a known solution and may save you some trouble. Oh, and to ensure a long and prosperous relationship with this site http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=93&a=2 http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=93

Yeah, use the wire from the ignition switch to the starter to power a relay and have it switch a wire straight from the battery. May want to fuse the wire from the battery.

Black Dog by Led Zepplin Totally not car related, but damn is it a good song to drive fast to. Radar Love is the other song I always think of.

When you put power to the solenoid there is a copper disk that gets pushed forward connecting across the back of the two big lugs on the solenoid. That sends power from the battery into the starter. That is exactly what you are doing when you bridge a screw driver across the two big solenoid lugs. One of two things is happening. Either you aren't getting enough juice to the solenoid to fully energize it (thus it is not pushing the copper disk fully into the back of the two big lugs), or the copper disk itself is badly corroded and not conducting well enough to put full power to the starter motor. Try running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the solenoid S terminal. If that makes things work then you have a bad connection in your ignition switch circuit somewhere. This problem can be fixed by adding a remote start solenoid (search on ford and/or remote solenoid). If powering the S terminal directly from the battery doesn't work, then you need a new solenoid. You can also take the solenoid apart and clean everything up inside of it with some sandpaper.

I shouted out "A duck" as an answer to a convoluted question in a physics class once. No one got it. "Who are you who is so wise in the ways of science?"

Thanks for the link. That guy has some good info/advice. A good read.

Take a torque wrench to all of your rear suspension bolts. I kept blaming a thump on the diff mount and turned out to be a loose bolt holding the diff to the mustache bar. Those suckers need to be tight.

Damn. that is one impressive cow catcher on the front of that miata. Guess it is taking the place of a stock core support that had to be removed? That Ford IRS just looks like it belongs. One diversion. I see you guys use the MSD blaster coils. Do you notice much difference with those? Are they really worth the price?

From http://www.kenrockwell.com/bmw/m3/2007/engine.htm I'll stick with the LS motor

This is the part I don't understand. I had a run of back luck some years ago and got in 3 significant' accidents. After each accident Gieco asked me if I wanted to pursue a claim though the other insurance myself or let them handle it (I know, I know, Gieco sucks, not the point). I told them to deal with it, even though none of the accidents were my fault. Of course no one was hurt in any of my accidents. Not sure how that would complicate things.

Pull the cowl off and look for rusted through holes. That area can trap a lot of dirt and leaves and stuff. It is easy to see how it could rust through