Pop N Wood

Not to mention the member who came up with it in the first place.

Fie, you google. Don't need no Jesus ads on my car site.

Never would have thought that was possible. Time to rig up a vacuum breaker. Obviously a defective design.

That's perfect

That's good to know.

Just send your gauge to Autometer and have them recalibrate it http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120459&highlight=autometer+reverse

I am considering putting mine in the same location as the stock unit. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but it is my understanding that once those things are set you don't need to monkey with them anymore.

Springs do wear out. If your springs are original issue, then as long as you are doing struts you may want to spring for a new set (Get it? "spring" for a new set?) Lots of places sell replacement springs that fit the stock perches. You may want to spring for a set that is slightly stiffer than the stock units.

No, they told me it was illegal because it wasn't stock, didn't have a CARB number and wasn't in their book. The tech's simply apply rules. They don't use technical judgment. I have seen cars fail because they didn't have a heat riser tube. I would think an intercooler would have a much bigger impact on how fast the car heats up than a heat riser tube. In a way you CA guys have it good in that there are referee stations to get definitive answers. When I went to do my swap I called half a dozen state agencies trying to find out what the rules are in my state. People would give me answers, but since none of the answers agreed I think the counter clerks were just telling me what they THOUGHT the answers were.

Are you sure about that? I once failed because I had modified the stock air cleaner housing.

Car craft did an article where they picked up a junk yard truck 6.0L and got 500 HP basically with a cam and valve spring upgrade. They did put on a carb'd intake but only because they wanted it done quick. The problems with a truck motors in a Z are the intakes are too tall, the oil pan too deep and the accessories don't fit. That means you need an intake and accessories off of a F body car and an LS2 vette oil pan and pick up tube. The F body pan works, but as long as you are buying one the LS2 pan is better, especially for a Z. Then you need to get the 6 speed you want, along with the clutch and flywheel. I don't know if the computers are the same between the trucks and F bodies. There went any money you might have saved buying the truck engine. And good luck finding F body LS1 accessories in a junk yard. They only made LS F bodies for a few years, and when JY's get them they sell them whole and not in parts. So ebay or GM direct.

You might want to search some more. There are huge differences between the two engines you are looking at. The LS motors have so much more potential than the LT motors. The biggest difference is in the cylinder heads. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81151&highlight=order There are countless articles on the web of car magazines that get over 500 HP from LS engines with basic cam changes. LT motors can use the JTR mounting kit. LS motors can use John's car's mounting kits. LT motors have a poorly desinged distributor mounted underneath the water pump. Those pigs are expensive to replace. LS motors have individual coils for each plug. Cost is a huge difference. LT motors are considerably cheaper initially. But they only made them for a few years back in the 90's. They are getting harder to come by. If you are on a budget and want a fast car that idles like a stocker, then go with an LT motor. Get an iron head version out of a Caprice and save even more. If you want over 400 HP, then the LS motor will be your cheapest route to big numbers like that.

Seems to me that extending the area in Blue OUT will do the same thing the missing nylon piece was suppose to do: Trip the latch mechanisim before the back hits the area in red. Great to know there is a fix.

Nissan use to advertise the same thing with the wheels they put on whatever sports car they were making in the lat 80's. The wheels were side specific and designed to draw air out from under the car.

Damn. That jet was slow. Car Craft once did a drag race between a P51 and a Corvette. the P51 was detuned and only running half the boost it did during the war. The vette had the P51 for the first 100 feet or so, then it was all over.

Any way to hook up an entire drive mechanism from another machine. A hybrid welder.

LOL. I like the way you think. Of course, if gas hits $5 to $10 a gallon than ethanol might be cost effective without subsidies... Flex fuel vehicles need some type of fuel sensor to analyze the fuel and allow the computer to properly set the fuel mixture. If you don't have this, then you will be forced to run only the type of fuel your engine is tuned for. Not a minor issue since E85 isn't available everywhere. From the little bit of reading I have done on the subject, you need a different AF ratio setting at the O2 sensor with alcohol than with gasoline. Hence the need for the sensor. CNG may allow higher compression ratios, but make sure you weigh all the trade offs with this type of fuel before converting your vehicle. Does anyone know if tracks have safety restrictions for cars with CNG fuel tanks?

The two speed gear box on the Merlin blowers were designed to be shifted manually at a specific altitude. This was needed to try to keep the boost constant with changing altitude. I have read accounts from WWII pilots who said you had to be careful operating the aircraft at altitudes near the blower shift point because performance suffered. The British actually had several different variants of Spitfires optimized to operate at different altitudes. The German DB601 had a variable speed hydraulically driven centrifugal supercharger that automatically adjusted the blower speed with altitude. The German engine’s fuel injection was also self adjusting. They said it made flying the ME109 quite a bit more simple in comparison to the Merlin craft where the pilot had to manage the supercharger and even had a control to adjust the fuel mixture. They said the German machine basically had a throttle and a stick. War Emergency Power did allow the machine to use extra boost, but I am not sure how that played with the need to shift blower speed with altitude anyway. I know on later variants the WEP switch activated nitrous oxide and water injection. They said the engine was good for about 10 minutes at WEP before it needed to be rebuilt. One last thing, superchargers and turbochargers were considered Top Secret stuff at the start of the war. They were right up there with radar. I don’t think the Germans ever developed the metallurgy knowledge (or simply lacked the resources) to develop turbochargers during the war. The B36’s were impressive machines, but there was a lot of controversy whether they should have ever been built. The B36 program was an enormously expensive one, and many argued they were so indefensible they would have had little chance of ever accomplishing their mission. There was also a good bit of political scandal that the B36 survived simply because it was a congressman’s pet project. An impressive machine non the less. When it was first built at the end of WWII there where only 2 runways in the whole world strong enought to support the weight of the machine. It was the B36 that spawned the need for multiple tire landing gear.

I have heard the Nissan ones sell for a grand. Is that rust on the metal guage hangers?

My questions were phrased in a manner intended to illicit a humorous response, but they are most definitely not rhetorical. I am simply challenging the logic of your claims. A high brow tone just doesn’t do much to convince anyone why a battery that costs twice as much is “betterâ€. What I worry about are things like what type of CCA and reserve capacity I am getting for my money. I am not too worried about spilling or having it run over by a truck. I am pretty sure I will never mount it upside down. That type of advertising rhetoric just doesn’t mean much to me. If I had a high compression motor that had to turn over in cold weather, or a car that will sit in the garage through the winter, then that might make the more expensive battery a more cost effective option. But for a car that has to run on pump gas, such an expensive battery sure does seem like a waste of money. I mean, once the car is started the type of battery doesn't do anything to improve performance. So all it needs to do for me is start my car. I don't doubt it is a technically superior battery. I just feel the extra money could be better spent on something that actually improves performance. $90 will buy a lot of Jim Beam. But there is always the car show…..

You should take that back and demand what you paid for!!! And make them give you a new bit.

And THAT is why his joke is so damn funny

So how much did you shave off your quarter mile times when you put in that Optima? Or by "improve" do you mean impressing people at car shows where nothing moves? You do realize there are other brands of batteries besides Everstart and Optima? I think I paid $90 for my last battery. Doesn't seem cheap to me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300zx-Throttle-Position-Sensor-NIB-TPS_W0QQitemZ320116579961QQcmdZViewItem

What type and brand of motor/transmission mounts do you have?