Pop N Wood

I like that solution. AFR heads don't sound cheap. LS2 also has the option of L92 heads.

The drive shaft alignment geometry is really pretty simple. Just draw a straight line out of the transmission shaft and one out of the differential shaft. If those two lines are exactly the same distance apart, up and down, side to side, all along the line, then the drive line angles are perfect. Here is one way to check your angles http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413 The problem is U joints turning through an angle don't turn at a constant, smooth rate. As the U joint goes through it's motion, it kind of speeds up and slows down, speeds up and slows down. Try turning a socket universal joint by hand an you will see what I mean. The bigger the angle, the bigger the change in speed. If you have a second U joint that is at the opposite angle, then the speed change is exactly canceled out. As one joint speeds up, the other slows down. If the angles of the two joints aren't the same, than the rear wheels will speed up and slow down just like the shaft. This causes the vibration. The other thing to look at is make sure the rear U joint was welded onto the shaft with the correct alginment compared to the front U joint. Here is a picture to show what I mean Aluminum drive shafts are suppose to be less likely to cause vibration since they weight less. If you can't find a good shop, here is a link where you can get a custom made shaft done relatively cheap. Don't know what shipping would be like overseas http://www.pstds.com/ One other thing. How good is your front diff mount? If the diff mount is worn out, then under heavy load the nose of the diff can go up or down affecting the driveline angles. Make sure your diff, tranny and engine mounts are solid.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_763974_-1_10019

Just win baby!

This place is pretty strict about people doing some research on their own before asking basic questions. Things can get rather unplesant otherwise. Go to the FAQ section and your frequently asked question has been answered. You should also read the rules, a sticky a the top of most forums. Welcome to the site.

Has anyone found a source of tubing yet? Guess we need a source that will return emails and is not in England. Then they need to be willing to sell something smaller than a ton at a time. Did find some 12 mm OD - 9 mm ID. Guess that could be reamed out.

Thanks for the offer. I bought a bunch of metric fittings so the T and bleed valves are all M10x1, so I think I am set. Just need to get over this stomach virus so I can get some garage time.

The price of the car doesn't do much to affect the cost of insurance. It is the cost of what you could do to others that gets expensive. That being said, the definitely won't pay much to fix a 30+year old car.

Who posted that message? I know the early blocks (98-99) didn't have windage openings between the block main webs. They were also notorious for "oil consumption" issues and blowing oil through the PCV system and into the intake. Maybe they are all related, hard to tell. But I thought the 01-02 blocks had the upgraded oiling baffles.

The only metal 12 mm OD - 10 mm ID tubing McMaster Carr carries is made out of copper. After looking high and low for 1/2 inch SS tubing to make a fuel pick up tube I can catagorically say if MMC doesn't have it good luck. They have 12 mm OD and 9 mm ID that could be reamed out to work I guess. I like the no spacer route.

That is the IRS. With a solid rear axle the torque tries to lift one of the wheels causing it to spin more easily than the other wheel. Get the car into a turn and you will see the open diff. There is always a lot of talk about turning one wheel etc, but the best way to tell if it is limited slip is to pull the cover and look. It is so simple to do I don't know why people try any other way.

Did you just buy the radiator mounts from JTR? Some months back JTR said they were going from steel to aluminum. Maybe the new stuff isn't as sturdy as the old?

I bought a couple of Campbell Hausfield tools and some Husky tools. The Husky air tools from Home Depot are both working rather well. The CH stuff is OK but definitely like the Husky stuff better. Also have a Sears impact driver that is not what I would like it to be. And like the others said, you really need a 220V compressor. A true 5 HP continuous motor will need 22 amps at 220V. My die grinders will run my compressor continuously, but I never fall below 90 PSI or so. Haven't tried a larger sander. All the rest of the tools barely tax the compressor. What I really need to do next is get a second air tank so I can get the moisture out of my air lines (something Tony D recommended). I have a separator in the line, but it doesn't seem to keep the condensate out of the copper air lines I ran about the garage.

Weight is the killer of gas mileage in the new cars. My 79 Ford Fiesta weighed in at something like 1700 #. Try finding anything that weight nowadays. For fuel mileage:: Mini Cooper Diesel Although at 75 HP and 133 ft-lbs of torque it has to be an absolute dog. The old Volkswagen Beetles had more oomph.

Yeah, I have always thought that high exhaust gas temps are from running too lean. That is what all the turbo guys say. Need to get this right so I don't burn off the ceramic coating from my headers on startup.

Try looking up a service manual for an 83 zx. I think we have links for that on the site here. I know I have seen links for wiring diagrams.

I have the flairing tool and a coil of hard line. I am making the hardware from scratch. Now that I know what a bubble flair is I just wanted verification on how to make one. Thanks. I like the insert idea. This guy had an interesting idea to cut them out of a 240 MC. I wonder if the inserts are available by themselves. Seems like it would be a bitch to machine those with a lathe.

I have a 98 Toyota 2wd, 4 cyl 5 speed extra cab. Gets just over 25 mpg. Industructible motors. Terrible snow car.

No, not stock. I bought a TKO and LS bellhousing from Keisler engineering. They talked me into their hydraulic throwout bearing. You can see it this pic of the trans and bellhousing. They claim it is out of a BMW. It only has a single feed line. So to bleed the system they tell me I need a T right on the outside of the case. They say it will bleed fine. Normally they sell the hydraulic lines and MC with the trans set up. But since I was putting the trans in a Z they weren't sure about the line length etc. So like a dumb ass I tried to save a few bucks and build the stuff myself. When I later realized how difficult it was going to be to get the appropriate metric fittings I called back and tried to get the package pieces that I left off in the first place. But somehow getting the rest of the package was going to cost like $150 more than what they credited me in the first place. Everything should work out fine. But if I had it to do over I wouldn't have done buisness with Keisler.

Hey. Thanks guys. The proverbial easy button.

I would love to see a write up detailing this also. I know Jon has written in bits and pieces what needs to be done in the group buy thread. But a nice cookbook write up would be greatly appreciated.

Got a brake line T to hook a bleed valve into my clutch line. Thought I had everything I needed to double flair some hard lines into the T. Now I notice all three connections on the T have I guess you call it a female taper. So the pointed bleed valve will work great, but how do I connect the double flair hard line? Do I need to get a different T with 2 inverted flair fittings and one non-inverted flair (for lack of a better term)? Man, everything on this swap takes 10 times longer than you think it will. First spend half the day just trying to find the brake fittings I bought months ago, and now this. I honestly think I have spent more time on line trying to buy parts than I have working on the car. Edit::: Maybe I have answered my own question? from this page

Sounds to me like you still have a vacuum leak or a misadjusted mixture. You must be running lean, so putting on the choke dumps more gas into the carb letting it run better. If the car has been sitting then I guess you can't overlook the possiblity the carb is gunked up causing it to run lean. Maybe some dirt blocking a fuel orifice. Get some starter fluid or propane and continue to look for vacuum leaks. pay special attention to the throttle shaft bushings since those are what caused me to replace my early carbs. Of course replace or tighten all the vaccum hoses and check the brake booster for leaks. If all of that works, pull the carbs and rebuild them. Reading back through this I realize that maybe the carbs are just out of adjustement. But I don't know anything about adjusting the flat top carbs. I have a set of dual downdraft webers I could make you a deal on.....

Is it the brakes rubbing? When you replaced the wheel cylinder, you should have been able to adjust the brake shoes back so they don't rub. If the wheel is hard to turn like that, then maybe your rear wheel bearings need some attention.

I bought a pair of Harbor Freight furniture dolly's when I needed to move a hot tub. I think $35 for the pair. When I got my crate motor, I mounted one dolly to the bottom of the crate to move it around. I then installed a couple of 2x4 spacers to get the crate up over the engine lift legs. Further modification to the crate allowed me to bolt and unbolt the trans to the back of the motor while it is sitting on the crate and dolly. It moves a fully loaded V8 and trans with ease and slides right up to the lift. The old L6 is still sitting on the second dolly in my driveway. I did make a metal frame out of old bed frames to mount the L6 and trans to the furniture dolly.