Pop N Wood

Is it possible for improper valve adjustment to do this? Or bad valve timing, like a worm timing chain? The other possiblity is maybe your compression gauge just aint what it use to be. At any rate puling the head will tell you if it is combustion chamber deposits. Just throwing out ideas.

I'm with Paz8. Mine is just cut.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207

See if he can get on with a 6 speed manual trans too. Getting them together would save you big bucks.

The moderators get rather testy when new people ask such basic questions. Read through the frequently asked questions page. Particularly the secion on chevy V8 swaps. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116670 Making a quick read of the rules will make your stay here a much more pleasant one http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=58&a=2

I don't know about NJ but in Maryland gas is massively cheaper than electricity. When I bought my house 15 years ago gas vs. electric heat was an absolute deal breaker. Heat pumps suck at heating a house. Give me gas heat and hot water. It is nice to be able to cook when the power goes out. There are web sites with on line calculators to tell you the cost advantages of gas vs. electric vs. oil vs. propane. All you need to know is the rates the local utility companies charge. I also have a strong personal bias against septic systems. When I pull that handle I want what's going down to be out of my life forever. Not sitting in a tub in the back yard. Sewers are the only civilized way to go. If you talk with a local realtor I think you will find sewer makes a significant difference in resale price. Good luck installing a sewer and gas yourself. I rather doubt any local building codes allow non licensed people to do that kind of work and I even more seriously doubt the local utility companies will let you hook up to their system without the proper permits. Once you get gas in the house, then you can do your own mods. But you won't be able to use the new flexible pipe since they won't sell it to unlicensed people. And don't get me started on solar....

Sounds like a good topic for Grumpyvette.

There will be no way to get air back into the tank to replace the fuel you are sucking out. That could cause fuel feed issues when the fuel pump is trying to fight the vacuum in the tank. On the other end of things as the car heats up and cools down with changes in outside temp the fuel will expand and contract. Where will all that pressure go?

Not to pick on anybody who posted above but HybridZ people admire and respect a well done stock vehicle. This site is just rather intolerant of people telling others to NOT mod their Z's. You have come to the right place. The fact it runs when the starter is on but not with the starter off makes me think there is a loose or corroded electrical connection. Jumpering a wire over the ballast resistor is a step in the right direction. Try bridging a jumper wire right from the batter directly to the power wire on the coil. That will bypass the whole running ignition circuit. If that works, then it is a matter of tracing the ignition power wires cleaning up each and every connection. At the same timecheck for bad insulation that could be shorting out to ground. Sometimes taking sandpaper to a connection that otherwise looks clean can fix something you didn't realize was broke. Rubbing a little dielectric grease on the cleaned up connection will help keep things clean. Good luck. Hope it isn't your ignition switch. A known weak point in the Z electrical system.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116670

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103836

That is because I don't know how to spell. http://alteredz.com/ here is his hood latch.

What year tank? I know on my 240 tank the outer fill tubes are just soldered into a recessed cup which is in turn spot welded and soldered to the tank. The pick up tube inside the tank is solidly mounted to the recessed cup. You should be able to unsolder the external J shaped connector and replace it. I took my fill assembly off the tank and can get you pictures of the pieces if you are interested. But like I said, what year vehicle cause the fuel parts may be different on the fuel injected cars.

Why wouldn't this work? It is just a tube going down into the tank. The other option is to get an AN6 bulkhead fitting and drilling one hole (with a unibit) in the stock tank near the current returns. That way you can open the sending unit to get the jam nut on. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product2_10001_10002_749420_-1

You have that motor about 6 inches farther forward than it needs to be. I am running a carb's intake, but have the front of my pulley sits right over the middle of my steering rack. You don't have to eliminate the hood latch. Just move it over 5 or 6 inches. Common mod. That is what I am going to do to allow a 14 inch air cleaner. Look at Pete Paraska's alteredz.com site to see how he did it. You can also put up to 1/2 inch spacers between the crossmember and frame rails (i.e. JTR spacers) to gain some more hood clearance. Moving the engine back should help with the hood clearance issues. The Z hood slopes pretty good so farther back is better. Where is your alternator going to be?

That is because you are building them wrong. Use a single plane intake, big runners, heavy cam. All the stuff the Car Craft and Hot Rod mags say to not do when you are putting an engine in an overweight 60's muscle car. Take advantage of the Z's light weight and trade some of that low end torque for high RPM horsepower. Simple fact is the 383 can be built to have more top end HP than the 302 and still have more low end grunt. Basically more power everywhere. Why would you think it better to have less power? The idea that the 302's short stroke can rev higher is an urban myth. There are some limitations to piston speed, but it is the valve train and airflow that are going to limit RPM anyway. Even a 302 won't rev if the valves start to float at 6k. When I first went to build my Z I came here thinking the same as you. Have always wanted a 302 motor ever since the one guy in high school had a 69 Z28. Always heard how the lightweight, narrow tired Z can't use all that low end torque anyway. But then Grumpyvette made me change my ways. Made me realize that large cube motors can be built for high RPM use also. That and the price of 302 rotating assemblies sort of makes it a no brainer.

Holy mother of God. $1399.95 for an R200 LSD carrier? Do they send vaseline with that? We just had a group buy for the power brute units. $459 to my door. I think it might be over $500 now, but that is still $900 less than those MSA rapists. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115077&page=18 Call Tim at Reider Racing and pick one up. the number is in that thread somewhere

The easiest way to solve your problem is to weld a cigarette pack sized sump on the bottom of your tank that has 3 half inch holes feeding it. Then create a new fuel pick up that goes into the new sump through one of the holes. The new pickup can enter the tank where the stock one does using bulkhead type AN fittings. With the fuel sender out you will easily be able to see to get the new pick up into the new sump That way there are no lines on the bottom of the tank. If you are worried about the small bump of a sump, then bolt a skid plate over it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=101446&highlight=locksmith

I got that picture from a Lincoln Nebraska site. But being a Nebraska native I still blame the car on California. http://www.hprcc.unl.edu/nebraska/june5-2006NEVIT.html "The Black tornado symbols are tornadoes that have been photographed by the TIV and the red tornado symbols indicate tornadoes that the TIV penetrated " BTW, check out the cloud pics on this page http://www.hprcc.unl.edu/nebraska/june2004hastings-mammatus.html

Get some ARP bolts from Summit or another on line retailer.

Thanks for all the replies. I don't feel so bad now. Close to but not flush is now my rule. Guess I was trying too hard to make it perfect. I actually have the heater hose penetrations done. They are built up a bit. I think having them right in front of my face helped alot. The AC penetration was impossible to get a good viewing angle on. Yeah, I did it all with short tack welds. I used a water soaked rag to cool things down between welds and grinding to prevent warping. By not being able to run a bead I meant I couldn't get a short tack weld to go without popping. I think the tar on the inside of the firewall was coming through. That caused me to start adjusting the gun which started misfeeding making things more difficult. I actually have pretty good luck filling in small holes or burn throughs. It is just in trying to grind them smooth that I got greedy. The flanging idea would have worked perfectly. One other thing I have learned is a flourescent work light does not trigger an auto darkening helmet. It seems to put out a color of light that isn't as heavily darkened by the lens either. I can see way better with it than with a 500W halogen light.

If you have ever seen the "frame rails" on a 240 you would rethink that advice. If you run them all the way up top where wheelman's brake line is you have a little more protection against driveshaft failures. I am going to try and run 3/8 inch lines in the same place that the stock lines were.

How much luck do you guys have MIG welding in sheet metal patches that look like unpatched steel? I went to patch up some small and large holes in my firewall. I mananged to cut some patches and weld up the heater hose penetrations. Ground everything down and with just a little spot putty the patches should disappear. But I was not so lucky when I tried to do the same thing to penetration someone else had cut for AC. I cleaned up the hole and cut a patch to fit perfectly. Initially had some trouble running a bead cause I didn't clean off the inside. Got that fixed up and still struggled a bit with my welder and not being able to see. Anyway got done welding everything and ground the welds down. A bit rougher than the heater hose patches, but thought it looked OK. Turned all the shop lights off and went to leave. I had to go back and turn off the drop light I had left in the car. That is when I saw all kinds of light streaming through pinholes all around my welds. The heater hose patches were solid, but not the AC patch. Went back last night and tried to reweld everything. But with all the burn throughs I was losing ground. Ended up sandwiching a small sheet metal patch over the flush patch. So how about it. Is it unrealistic to think I should be able to grind a MIG weld down in sheet metal and have it disappear with no pinholes?

The water pump housing is pretty thick. It might take to a tap. The stock connectors appear to be steel and look to be pressed in, so not sure what it would take to get them out. I rerouted my heater hose penetrations to go in where the wireing harness comes out. Should look good with braided heater hoses along the fender. Will help sheild the harness too.