Pop N Wood

The ultimate protection would be some type of DC to DC inverter. That way your output would be a clean 12 volts no matter what the input voltage looked like. You would even be protected against EMP ( But probably massive overkill.

Oh man. Nice looking product. Danno74Z, are you sure that would hit the frame rail? Looks pretty high up to me. From your sig I see you have an LT1/T56 so I guess you would know better than me. But when I was trying to mount an alternator on my LS motor that was one of the candidates. I ended up mounting it head height on the drivers side. Either way I would imagine mattster03 would want to check this out before he sells them for a Z application.

I love that line....

Mallory pumps have a good reputation for being quiet and reliable. I have only read positive posts about the Mallory pumps, which is more than I can say for the Holley pumps. A Mallory Comp 110 pump should feed 400 crank HP and is internally regulated. That means you don't have to run a regulator or return (but may still want to). You may want to nail down your HP goals more accurately. I think there will be a big difference between fuel systems for 300 rwhp and 400 rwhp. Sort of a knee in the curve area. I had a very hard time getting definitive information about sizing fuel systems. Seems like everybody says something different. I have a crate motor that is rated at 440 crank HP, but should see over 500 HP with some mods. I am in the process of installing a Mallory Comp 140 pump and a Mallory return style regulator. A good bit more money but using a return style regulator is suppose to be a superior set up and will make your pump live longer. I am upgrading my fuel lines since the stock feed and return are too small for 450 crank HP. I bought 3/8 inch hard lines but kind of wish I had 1/2 lines. Extra peace of mind. I did mod the 240 tank to have a 1/2 pick up tube an 3/8 return fitting.

You would probably make more selling it by the pound than parts. Depends on how patient you are selling stuff.

Wrap some duct tape around it. Bunch of old women on this site.

Molasses. Was a thread here on it but our POS search engine isn't finding it. Do a google search on molasses + rust and you get things like http://inetogether.net/jaguar/060703.php http://rustbeeter.com/cars.html

There is a program called SnagIt that will let you do screen captures of just a particular window.

The cool thing is it wasn't even his car.

Dynamat is suppose to be the bomb. It adhears to the metal damping the motion which helps keep it from vibrating and transmitting sound. When I put my carpet in, I just got some rubber carpet pad from a dumpster behind a carpet store. Don't get much cheaper or readily available than that. I then glued some velcro to the carpet to hold it in place. Worked OK. I have also read of other people who got rolls of quilted aluminum insulation from a home store and used that. They come in 16 and 24 inch widths.

I was thinking a fuel line might be sucking shut (they get softer if they are hot) or that something was floating around inside the tank. But sounds like you have covered those. I don't understand what are you doing with 2 pumps. Are they running in series (the outlet of one feeding the other)? And you said you have replaced both pumps with different pumps with the same results? Niether pump has an internal pressure regulator that could be failing? What ever it is, my guess is it will turn out to be something very simple and very stupid once you find it. If you want to see if the regulator is sticking open, try splicing a see through fuel filter in the return line. Hopefully you will be able to see if there is flow through the line when the pressure drops. Another option would be to place pressure guages at the outputs of each pump. Might help you narrow down where the pressure loss occurs. Good thing is the problem is so repeatable.

Did you put the sender in upside down?

Thanks. Now I need to figure out what I did with it.

I wonder if the spring and plastic are part of the fill spout door/hatch? The inside of your tank doesn't look that bad to me. I would be tempted to just rinse it out and run it. Be very careful with any type of home tank sealer. There have been multiple members who have had that stuff come undone and really start causing fuel starvation issues. Another member pointed out some of the sealers are not compatible with modern gasolines. If it were my car it would be professionally done or not at all. Also keep the larger line for your fuel supply. The intake side of the pump is much more sensitive to restrictions than the output.

I was wondering about the manifold too. There are some benefits to having the large open plenum of a 4 barrel. That system looks way cool, but it will be almost like having individual carbs. Can't believe the linkage is progressive.

Can anyone tell me real quick if there is a gasket on the fuel sender assembly for a 240 tank? Is it a rubber piece or could I make one out of a piece of plain gasket material? I took mine off a week or two ago and can't for the life of me remember if I pulled a gasket off with it. I tried making one out of gasket material, but when I did a leak test on the tank I get bubbles all around the sender. Thanks

So what is the better/cheaper way for R200 owners?

If a different fan draws less current, then it won't move as much air either. There was an old thread where MikeJTR said the fans out of a Lincoln fit the JTR radiators better and move the same amount of air while only drawing 18 amps. Might give a search for that one.

Something might be loose or worn out allowing the suspension-tranny-diff to move. Are you sure it is not a tire vibration or something like that?

Don't use a hand grenade to kill flys. While it can't hurt to clean out the tank, just try replacing your filter and see if that clears things up. Run a tank or two of gasahol through there also. The alcohol makes a pretty good solvent. You may have to replace the filter 2 or 3 times before all the crud is cycled through.

On the upside your post looks like a good start to a country song.

Maybe you need to take it to a garage. You don't want me telling you where the dipstick is.

Broken front diff mount. Very common. Could also be bad bushings and or loose diff bolts. But chances are it is the diff mount.

That could be anything. A loose or dirty connector, wire shorting to ground, dirty fuel filter, failing fuel pump, low on gas. Not a fun problem to diagnois.

People run cats on their V8 swaps. Just a matter of finding room underneath the car. 240's were carburated so there is some additional work upgrading the tank with a sump for the fuel injection. 280's already have an in tank sump. 240's also have the smaller R180 rear end, so one more expense that may or may not be avoided with the 280. For the LS swap figure $10K minimum. The used engines are getting rather expensive and all the swap stuff really adds up in a hurry.