Pop N Wood

interesting that you say that. I have used my HF press for a couple of years now and in just the last few months I have been noticing the larger bits wobbling. The small ones turn fine. It looked like the chuck to me, but at $125 from McMaster Carr I didn't want to just throw money at it. Where did you buy your new chuck?

Pull the cowl panel off and mount it in there. Nice big empty space under the cowl.

Not to mention Easter Sunday

There is a ton of info over on ls1tech.com about PCV catch cans. A known problem on LS motors. Soem sample type set ups Lots of talk about breathers vs a PCV system. Also Moroso sells an evac system that uses exhaust flow to draw a vacuum in the engine and burns off any excess oil in the exhaust. Just make sure whatever you use has some type of filter in it. I can't find the link but some guys on ls1tech.com sell some really nice aluminum cans that look really sweet.

They are also suppose to have more torque so they start high compression motors more easily.

I have never bench bled an MC in my life. My slave cylinder went completely bad and after 4 years of storage drained all the fluid. When I replaced the slave, I had to prime the MC by disconnecting the outlet fitting and holding my finger over the opening while someone pumped the clutch. This primed the MC so when I reconnected the line I was good to go for a normal bleed at the slave. Hooking a vac pump to an MC bleed valve is a less messy way to do things, but I think people tend to get over elaborate when bleeding hydraulic systems. BTW, spray a little WD40 on that outlet fitting to slow the rust.

grumpyvette always mentions the method of pulling the plugs and measuring how much Marvel mystery oil it takes to fill one of the cylinders.

LS motors have completely different head designs. The increased flow means more HP and bigger carbs then the first gen SBC. GM recommends a 750 CFM carb with their 6.0L (364 CI) LS2 motors. But they also are rated at almost 450 HP. That would be a pretty wild first gen.

To add a question to those guys who have done it. How do the kit manufactures determine the length of each wire used in the kit? Won't circuit lengths vary from car to car? Or is each circuits a generous length requiring the installer to cut it to length, which means the installer does the final crimping of the end connectors? Thanks

Shoot. All the home stores sell plastic templates that will do all you need to determine bolt and nut sizes. They are similar to a drill guage. Measuring pitch requires a pitch guage. Pitch guages are EXTREMELY usefull to prevent accidentially threading a metric into an SAE and vice versa. The two can look close, but the pitch guage removes all doubt.

Cheapest way I know to get a 2 core is to take your stock radiator to a local shop and have it recored. Get on the phone and get some quotes. I think I had mine recored to a 3 row core.

Why is the caster on one wheel? Are they both the same? Cause if they aren't you might have some type of damage or mismatched parts. Maybe you should post camber-caster measurements of both sides.

I would think buying a car sight unseen is more risky than looking at it and making an in person judgement about driving it any distance. But most people consider me to be a worry wart. But thinking out loud what is 3 to 4 days of your time worth? It is nice of Matt to offer his time and help.

I can second that. I bought a whole box of those. Only sure way to tell is with a pitch guage.

How are you going to route your exhaust? Underneath those wings? I would think the starter will preclude running it over and behind the wing. On my motor the bellhousing hangs as low as the F body oil pan. The tilt of the engine needed to get the driveline angles right makes the bellhousing the lowest thing in the drivetrain. Guess the T56 is different.

I thought the reverse rotation was only if you were running dual engines/props? I have always wondered what the difference between regular parts and "marine" parts were. In particular carbs. Marine carbs are somehow or the other Coast Guard approved. I don't know what the difference is. Maybe something to do with fires and gas fumes filling up the engine box?

That won't work for a ZX

Unfortunately I think some are 1.0 and most others are 1.25. You can't get a pitch guage in there to find out? If you go on ebay there are guys who sell complete bolt replacement kits for Z's. Get some nice shiny stainless.

Looks like a nice make over. Can't say I recognize the car. If you need an F body alternator bracket that has been machined to work with those Corvette accesories PM me. I had one modified then couldn't use it

You are not going to buy a car without looking at it anyway. That means you need to be there just in case you NEED to back out of the deal. At that point you might as well drive it.

I have a set of those on my old 240 motor. If you want I can look around tonight on my home computer for the pics I took before I pulled the motor. Not sure if that will help you with your 260 but I guess it couldn't hurt. If I remember correctly my 240 didn't have a lot of vacuum plumbing.

You know that is actually pretty encouraging that the emissions inspectors were first that knowledgeable and second that helpful. The changes they suggested will not only help you pass smog is should make your motor run better. BTW, you don't need rear O2 sims. Send the unit back to the guys who flashed it in the first place and make them fix their error. If you ask nice they shouldn't have a problem making good on that.

You need to make sure the separate run and start circuits are not still wired up. On a points type car the ignition is run off the S terminal of the starter when the car is cranking, but switches to the separate run circuit via the ballast resistor when running. The PO may have removed/bypassed the ballast resistor, but that doesn't mean he combined the start/run circuit into one. Try running a jumper wire straight from the battery to the 12 v lug on the coil. This will bypass both circuits. If it runs with the jumper in place but dies with it removed, then with the key still in the run position hook a volt meter up to the coil and start working your way backwards until your find the open/short circuit.

Gee, you sure seemed to find a lot of self confidence once they found your problem for you. Soldier on.

If you own an old car you simply have to be prepared to work on it. And I think it is extremely bad form to have the shop do all the troubleshooting for you without having them do the work. You are messing with how these people put food on the table. They are charging you for their time and experience as much as for the actual repair. If you aren't capable or knowledgeable enough to do the work (including the troubleshooting) yourself, then maybe you should serve up some rice and beans. Civics are pretty damn reliable transportation. You can use one to get to and from work while you learn how to work on the Z. If I were you I would put off buying all the go fast goodies and use that money to get your car in good mechanical shape. If the intake stuff is rotten, then what kind of shape is the rest of the car in? Plus, all that new intake stuff will have to be replaced when you put on the go fast stuff. So in effect won't you be paying to do the same repairs twice?