Pop N Wood

Is it 1 1/4 or 1 3/8? I seem to remember drilling mine at 1 3/8 inch.

Well that is all the answer I need. For what it is worth, the numbers in that century performance article are the exact same values Mallory and MrGasket list in a tech article on there site http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/TS_FuelSys.pdf One thing else I have also noticed. The Russell AN6 braided hose has a significantly smaller inside diameter then the el cheapo rubber fuel line.

I am about to plumb my fuel lines and paranoia is starting to take over. I need help deciding what size line to use, cause the time is now to make a decision. What I have is a carb'd LS2 crate rated at 446 HP, but should easly get over 500 HP once I cam it. I have a Mallory Comp 140 fuel pump and return style regulator. I also have everything I need to plumb 3/8 inch fuel line. But I keep reading things that says the 3/8 line is good for either 375 HP to 500 HP. also read post of people who claim to get some ungodly HP out of smaller line. What do you guys think. Does the very real possiblity of 500+ HP warrant selling all the 3/8 line and AN6 fittings for 1/2 - AN8 stuff?

Everything I read says the filter is suppose to be on the inlet side of the pump. Mallory says you must use a minimum of 40 micron filter before their pumps, althought they do say it is to prevent crud from jamming the georotor they use. Even Grumpyvette says inlet. I often thought the outlet would be better because you would suffer less headloss on the positive pressure side than the suction side. But all the manufactures have them on the inlet.

Well I guess we have different ideas of what constitutes attention to detail.

I am struggling a bit with this right now. I am about to run 3/8 line (AN6), but everything I read says that size line is only good for between 375 and 500 HP. Depending on who you want to believe even with two lines he might be short on fuel capacity. Guess I am just not seeing the "attention to detail" you talk about. Everything looks functional, although the exhaust seems cartoonishly large, but seems like too many things just tacked on underneath. However I have never built a car like that so what do I know?

That is pretty much where I bolted my fuel pump. Got the bottom nice and low, but above the control arm inner pivot. I wanted to put in that big canister type filter, but keeping that low also would have required running some type of mount down from the back deck. Decided to go in line just to make some progress. BTW, I don't know that there is any real difference between a FI and carb'd filter. Especially on the inlet side of the pump. Maybe someone will correct me if I am wrong.

I am not sure what the difference between a pre pump and post pump filter would be. I thought they were all suppose to be prepump. All you really want in the prepump filter is a high flow capacity. That means a paper or metal screen type (and not the sintered bronze or what ever it is). I just went through this on my 240 last night. I had bought a large canister type filter but similar to the pic below but couldn't figure out a clean way to mount it. (By the way, how did you get a fuel pump BEHIND a 240 tank?) I ended up just getting an in line unit at WalMart. It is a fram, I think FG3 with 3/8" barb inlet and outlet. Less than $4. The Fram unit for the LS Camaro's looked like it would work also. Only $10. Your other option is to just thumb through one the many fuel filters on Summit's site and http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925239+115+4294839051&NeXID=5 I don't think the filter on the pump inlet side will do anything to help with fuel starvation. If you uncover the in tank inlet you are still going to suck a slug of air into the filter. The only way to get the air out of filter is to run it through the pump.

Also make sure the cross piece behind the diff that connects the two control arms is curved and not straight.

He is not going to hit 1200 HP if that is AN6 size fuel line. I don't like all that stuff hanging out underneath either.

You're not telling us anything we didn't already know. Just kind of a pisser. Maybe sell them to some subaru or old volkswagen beetle guy. They would rock on a flat engine.

Probably worn valves.

Did the guy in the apartment have his sword in his hand too?

No I still have in sitting in my driveway. The weber kits run $1200. Seems like I should be able to do better. But eventually I will have to do something.

There was a local newstory where some family was pissed that their roadside memorial kept disappearing. They staked out the site and caught some old guy who spent his time cleaning up these shrines. I can't remember the details, but they somehow got the guy arrested. The paper said the only legal way to handle it is to report it to the county and let the road crews do it. so be careful if you take it upon yourself to clean up these shrines.

I think the key to making the easy outs work, besides the left hand drill bits, is drilling a hole that is almost the full size of the busted bolt. That means you have to dead nuts center the pilot hole.

I have a complete 70 240 with downdraft webers, E31 head, euro distributor, centerforce clutch and attached 5 speed that someone offered me $250 for.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/diamond/dmdpage.html

http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml I have never had luck removing broken bolts with an extractor until I read the article above. Another option is to pull the Flywheel and take it into a machine shop Another option is to weld a nut onto the top of the broken stud. Careful you dont' overheat the aluminum flywheel.

Not sure where you got these numbers. Most SBC installs end up with a slight rear weight bias. If you guys go to ebay right now there is all of 1 caddy 500 motor/transmission for sale and another bare block. Still say what good is it if you can't find one.

Here is one way http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109413

I bought a knock off set from Black Dragon Auto. Have yet to put them on but they they are nice and thick. couldn't see paying the price for Nissan parts.

Offer to buy your buddy replacement turbos. your out the same money either way, but get to avoid refabricating the exhaust.

With 8-9K you might be able to buy a completed V8 conversion.

There was an excellent thread on this a while back. One problem with aluminum is it will crack if subjected to regular movement. Thus make sure everything is well mounted. It seems to be the hard line of choice on this site. The majority of people here say that is what they used. I bought the 90-10 cupirous nickle stuff. I will be running the lines this week end. It is suppose to be easy to work with like aluminum, but without any of the problems. Very expensive. I am also redoing my brake lines so just decided to get matching stuff for the fuel.