Pop N Wood

The factory return runs all the way back to the tank. There are two penetrations in the tank, the 5/16 supply and 1/4 return. Each has it's own hard line with a short section of rubber hose connecting the tank to the hard lines. Both tank penetrations are right next to each other. There is also a third 1/4 inch line that is a tank vent. On my California edition 70 model it goes from a vapor recovery tank in the right rear C pillar up to the crankcase/intake manifold. Are you sure this isn't the line that was pinched off? I completely removed that line from my car.

if you recore it to a 3 row core it definitely is. A number of guys run the stock radiator that way. If it is a single row core, well then it really isn't big enough for the L6.

yeah, they had a return. A 5/16 supply and the next size smaller return. I will be running 3/8 supply and return with my V8 set up.

Maybe they could try canards? Wouldn't restict visibility that way. Might take pedestrians out at the ankles though.

That is almost certainly jacking damage. You should have seen what I did to my 240. The rails on a 280 look like building girders compared to the 240 rails. I drove for years with a good 2-3 inch deflection in my floors. I finally just this year hammered them back with a 3 lbs sledge and a piece of 2x4. I honestly would not worry about what you are seeing. I also would not hesitate to weld on the floors. I don't think the Z car floors are tempered so you won't be weakening them as long as your welds are good.

This is an excellent source for aluminum welding info http://www.alcotec.com/techpage.htm

Thank you, and my wife thanks you.

You know that is all I am trying to say. The sig is very colorful and moving making it really stand out against an otherwise bland forum background. It really catches people's eyes as they walk by. I use to spend afternoons in the bars of Olongapo city watching women pick up stacks of peso's from the tops of beer bottles, so it is not like I am saying I am above any of this. Like HizAndHerz said, I just don't feel like explaining it to my 10 year old daughter or 6 year old son, let alone boss or wife. It is not really a big deal. If you want to keep it I will just put you on my ignore list so none of your posts will be visible when I log on.

Google is your friend http://chevythunder.com/199295_lt1_trouble_codes.htm

This is interesting. What do you mean by offset on the LS1? Can you explain in more detail what was different? Maybe a side by side pic if possible? I had a Summit Protorque starter that I was going to use. Summit lists it as being for "LS" series motors. The two bolt holes were not exactly in line. One was slightly forward of the other. The starter bolted to the engine OK. But I sent it back because the pinion only half engaged the flywheel. Looking more closely it seemed like the mount Summit came up with to adapt a Denso ministarter to the LS motor had the starter sitting about 1/8th of an inch farther back than it should have. The way it was built there wasn't anything they could have done about it. But other than the fore-aft placement it did bolt to the engine fine. If the battery lug hadn't been on the backside of the starter (next to the engine) I might have tried to see if the pinion engagement was adequate. These LS2 motors are different from the earlier models. I found out last weekend the ignition controller I orginally bought does not work with the LS2 motors because of all the differnces in cam sensors and reluctor wheels. maybe I'll post the same question on LS1TECH.com

That happened to a buddy of mine when the Navy shipped his car from San Diego to Seattle. They put like 600 miles on the car and filled the back seat with beer bottles and fast food bags. When he tried to get compensation, the Navy pulled out a waiver they made him sign before shipping the car. Don't know why the services do that kind of thing to their own members.

Looks like the former owner would have made an excellent HybridZ member. That guy had his priorities straight when he built that place. Only problem I would have is small apartments like that are often called in-law quarters. I shudder at the thought....

You could always weld on more sheet metal then cut holes to lighten it....

Anyone know if a starter off an LS1 motor will work on an LS2? The on line parts stores I have looked at so far don't have listings for LS2 equiped cars (GOT's 2005+ Corvettes). But they do list a lot of truck motors that have the same starter as the F body LS1's. Would save me some $$ if I can pick one out of a pick and pull.

I think they might look pretty good. A bit ghetto maybe. Definitely a busy design. They look like FWD offsets. Will they even bolt up to a Z?

Man. I had that place bookmarked when I was thinking of an LT1 stroker. Golen had some dynamite engines listed. Just too expensive. Glad I bought straight from the General.

You need to spend some time with the search engine. What you are asking has been done. You will have several detailed options to decide between once you start searching and reading through old threads.

That only works with the MSA mounting kit. You can mail order a brand new steel one custom made at this shop for under $200 http://www.pstds.com/custom_driveshafts.htm

This question would be better answered my m1noel, ulissis, mas280. someone who actually did an LS2 pull out. I am pretty certain the GTO pans will not work cause they have a front sump. The LS2 corvettes have the wierd wings that will need to be cut off. The truck motors have pans that are too deep. I don't know of any other options. I bought a carb'd ls2 crate motor, and GM themselves knew to put an LS1 F body oil pan on that motor. I got if brand new from GM that way. I know the LS2 motor has better oil windows in the block, but I wasn't aware there was a difference in the pans.

Get a good rat terrier. Keep the rodents in line.

This is what you need http://www.sunpro.com/product_detail.php?pid=16339 Summitracing carries them, as do dozens of other mail order places. I think it is actually the M16 thread on the Z.

No, it is really powdery. You can see dust from it all over the motor. It will almost certainly dissolve when water hits it.

Go there with cash in your pocket and offer him $1500. then be happy if he holds out for $2100 cause that is a good price for a rust free series 1 Z. The auto is no a concern if you are doing a V8 swap. You can stay auto and get better drag times with the V8, or you can unbolt a pedal box from a JY Z and get the clutch pedal you will need.

This kind of stuff is always tough to diagnos over the internet. You might have carburation problems, but I think I would start with sorting out the ignition. When cars get old and start fouling plugs, it is usually due to oil leaking past the valve guides. Especially if the car has been sitting unused for a long period of time since this can cause the valve seals to dry out. Some times you can delay a head job by switching to hotter plugs. Hotter plugs just means the electodes go farther into the plug body so they don't transmit as much heat to the heads. This helps burn off oil and other deposits. But if you cleaned the plugs and it didn't run better for at least a little while, then my guess is you have a weak spark. Nothing magic about fixing that. I would just start with the basic tune up items like points, condenser, distributor cap and plug wires. Also make sure all the electrical connections are clean and not corroded and that no wires are chaffed and shorting to ground.

Pulled the water pump on my LS2 crate motor to drill and tap a hose barb for the head vents. Noticed this plug of brown powdery stuff in one of the water passages. Found it interesting that GM ships radiator stop leak in their brand new motors. I also learned that up until this year MSD did not make an ignition controller for LS2 motors. I had to return the LS1 unit I bought last year since it is only for LS1 motors. I don't think MSD even realized they were different until late last year. Guess it is a good thing this car is taking forever for me to finish. Would have hated to have the car done but no ignition solution for the carb'd motor.