Pop N Wood

I agree with you.

Well, no actually I simply don't agree with you. But in the end it doesn't really matter. I have said what I have to say.

Well, no, I disagree with the statement above. I say the elevation of the pump definitely matters. I personally think that was one of the contributors to TonyC's problem. The bigger worry is if the pump is higher than the level of the fuel, the fill line could drain back into the tank and the pump will lose it's prime.

I have to disagree with those statements. Whether the pick up tube comes out of the bottom of the tank or loops up 10 feet and back down, the static head at the pump inlet is going to be based on the difference in height between the fuel level in the tank and pump inlet. The only way the 10 foot loop will hurt you is if the lines have air in them or if the fuel is flowing through restrictive lines causing a pressure loss (head loss) through the line. The static pressure at the bottom of a tank is proportional to the height and density of the liquid above it. Gravity does not care what the shape of the tank is, it works on the liquid the same way. With no fuel flow the shape and location of the fittings are irrelavant. What you need to do is mount the pump so the impeller is as low as possible. I am not familar with that type of pump and whether the impeller is closer to the inlet or outlet. But I would think if you mount is horizontally you will be covered. You should be able to build a bracket off the rear diff cross member pretty easily. I make an L shaped piece of sheet metal that was sandwiched between the rear diff cross member and verticle plate mounting just above that rear control arm bushing. Trust me when I tell you you don't want to try and drill into that verticle plate.

I hope that is OK. That is about where I mounted my fuel pump. I did get it an inch or so lower, but I didn't want to extend much below the bottom of the control arm bushings. I used 1/2 inch stuff from the tank to the pump, including a 1/2 inlet and outlet in line filter, even though everything else is 3/8 inch. I haven't run mine yet so hope it all works. This is an interesting thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120415 The guy went through hell and with all the changes he did at once it is hard to tell what actually fixed his problem. But if you look at some of the pictures his pump was only a little above yours and he had no end of problems. So IMO the lower the better and the less restriction in the pump inlet plumbing the better. Another intersting thing I have noticed is the braided fuel line designed to work with those slick looking AN fittings has an inner diameter that is a good bit smaller than the el cheapo and/or twist lock black hose. I used the braided stuff for all the high pressue stuff simply because I had already bought it, but used non braided on the pump inlet side.

http://www.alteredz.com And yes, if one is rusting you should replace everything. Especially if you do it like Pete did above.

I can tell you from first hand experience that gettting coolant in the oil will make it look like that. Changing the oil before trying to start an engine that has been sitting should be standard practice. Maybe it is condensate. Or maybe you are as unlucky as my brother and a weeping head gasket allowed water into the combustion chamber causing the aluminum head to pit until a grove was cut from a coolant passage into an oil passage.

Maybe if you tell him you had to make good on your debt to your girl it will prompt him to make good with you. If not, well then what they said.

It is actually pretty easy to disconnect the under dash part of the speedo cable on my 240. It just unscrews from the back of the speedo. Just reach your hand up and follow the cable to the speedo. You should be able to do it with no tools and your eyes closed. Disconnecting one end (either end really) should allow you to remove the turning portion from the center of the sheath and clean/lube it up. The only complication might be getting it back in if the outer sheath is chewed up or the inner portion is frayed. You would then have to disconnect both ends to straighten out the sheath to feed the cable back in place.

Did you see these in the stickies? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401

A trendy car on ebay with a lot of big name parts that appeal to the younger generation and a description that looks like it was written by someone overseas. Such a good deal and the auction ended with no bids. Maybe it just looked like a scam? Like I said, not trying to be harsh (i.e. critical). Just trying to be helpful. Take the adive for what it is worth.

I was hoping it would be success post. You took a lot of restriction out of the intake line to the pump. I bet it was the combination of that and lowering the pump. As you ran, the fuel in the tank would be heated up from being circulated over the engine and through the return regulator. That little bit of head loss on the intake path would cause the pump to cavitate (boil the fuel in the low pressue intake of the pump). Warmer fuels more readily boil. Post some burn out vids.

Does the pic have to be taken before or after they use the jaws of life to remove your body from the wreckage? Serious,ly I know what you are saying. Nice to see a company that tries to stand behind their product. But that warrantee is pretty meaningless. For a race part seeing hard use I would think yearly inspections are an absolute must.

And tell the judge you didn't notice the word gift on the bill of sale until you got it home. Good luck scaring the guy. Sounds sleazy enough that he won't be too imtimidated by much. Even if you win in court it will be up to you to collect. The blood out of a turnip thing.

I cannot begin to count the number of times I have seen people throw parts at this particular problem only to have it turn out to be dirty battery posts. If you haven't pulled the posts and cleaned them with a wire brush, then you risk getting a whole bunch of advice and will spend a whole bunch of money fixing something you could have fixed in 10 minutes. Clean the battery posts, even if they look clean. Clean the connections on the other end of the battery cables also. Put the battery on a charger overnight. When those 3 things are done try starting the car again. If it still just clicks, then wedge a screw driver across the two big lugs on the starter solenoid (make sure it is out of gear with the wheels blocked first). If it starts, then start tracing the wires feeding the S terminal on the solenoid. Like said above, could be the ignition switch or any of the other half dozen connectors along that line. If the screw driver fails to start the car, then get your battery load tested (Autozone). If that is OK then it is either your starter or your solenoid.

Burning oil. The engine is probably worn out and needs rebuilding. No offense, but this probably isn't the best site to get the sort of very basic info you need to know when buying a used car.

Yeah, the broken english made me it read like it was some type of foreign scam. Not trying to be harsh but honestly trying to help you out.

No, you just move it up to the lip. In your pic it looks to be about as far back off that lip as the width of the red part you marked to notch.

Off the top of my head I don't remember how I mounted that unit in the car. I think it is offset to the passenger's side. I swapped in an R200 some years ago. So the diff sits wherever an R200 would sit in a 280 since that is most likely the type of car I pulled everything off. When I made the diff mount I drilled the isolator holes to fit the natural position of the diff. I then aligned the motor/trans to the diff. The overhead diff mount, along with the JTR mod to the mustache bar bushings, got the nose of the diff down and allowed me to reduce the tilt on my V8 swap. The engine now sits nice and low with the trans still tight up in the tunnel.

The speedo you could test by hooking the speedo cable to a power drill. The tach could be tested by hooking it to another running car. A 280 tach should work with just about any car.

Jon, I wouldn't weld it in because it is not really necessary and 2 you won't have acess to the parking brake stuff up above it. There is also a fuel / brake line bracket up there if you kept the stock stuff. Plus there is alway an outside chance either the mount or one of the isolator bolts could break. It would be nice to be able to remove the part under those circumstances. The one I made for my series 1 is more narrow than that unit. It has dead straight sides (no little wings down by the bolt holes) and is just wide enough to fit inbetween the protrusion and that metal ridge. The side of the mount is flush to the ridge. Are sure you can't hammer that pig up into place? Since I know you won't want to do that, I would weld a plate over the 3 mounting holes, cut that tab off so the front down piece is straight, then move the whole thing forward so it is flush to that metal lip. That should get the mount forward of the protrusion. You can then drill new mounting holes and call it a day.

chromoly is stronger than mild steel. It use to be if you used chromoly some racing bodies would let you use thinner tubing. This saved weight. But I thought I read on here that some places no longer make a distinction between chromoly and steel. At that point I personally would chose steel since it is cheaper and welds easily. ERW = electron resistance welded (I think) where as DOM = drawn over metal. Basically you want a type of tubing that doesn't have a bad seam that will split should the car get in a wreck. DOM is formed through some type of mandarel so there is no seam. ERW is a type of welding that forms a very consistent and strong seam. You can also weld chromoly with a torch. Some feel it actually makes a stronger weld than TIG. You don't want the harbor freight tubing bender. Do a search. Jon Mortenson in particular has posted his experience that bender. There are things you can do to make it work better, but it still is less than satisfying.

Yeah, a resistor doesn't care which way you hook up the wires. Good to know about the autometer fix. This is a common question on this site. Mounting the sender upside down would fix your problem... The other option would be to paint new empty and full marks on the guage face....

Any car will push once you lock the front brakes. Looks to me like he needed to hit the throttle to get around that turn and not the brake. And Ferrari didn't sell those new for that price. That is just what they are currently worth.

Now that I think about it I had to go with a Nippon Denso alternator because at 5 inches in diameter it was the only thing that would fit. So even if mattster03's mount puts the alt above the frame rail, like wheelman says it might still hit the tower. I would imagine the LS and LT engine widths are similar.