Pop N Wood

I went through the parts sourcing part, I feel your pain. I now have almost all the parts, or at least identified them. They are sitting in boxes and waiting for install. Now I am just hurting for the time to do the work and suffering some motivational issues just like you. My plan is to finish the swap and get the car on the road as soon as possible. It is WAY easier working on the swap if you aren't insanely worried about muffing the finish. If you are like me your motor will be in and out more times than a sailor in a PI short time room. Even final details like running wire looms and fuel lines oftens means changing your mind about relocating a stock bracket or tie down. This is all a lot easier if you don't have to repaint everytime. My vote is get the damn thing spinning the tires as soon as possible. Spend next summer driving it with the old paint then start the resto next winter.

From my swap notes, pulled off old posts here. This cross references the Summit Racing part numbers and I believe Goodyear numbers. Summit part # GTR-61099 (upper rad hose) Summit part # GTR- 61609 (lower rad hose) “I used the stock 98 LS1 Z28 bottom hose and a Gates 22358†61099 - (235) lower 61609 - (913) upper

Blown77Z I assume that is a 280 with the tabs. My 240 didn't have those.

Hoo man, I couldn't even begin to guess. Has a bunch of good parts. But it is not clear from the ad how many pieces have been assembled and how many are in boxes. Wonder why he would put that much work into it and sell it now. Maybe a divorce situation? Sucks.

I think I saw that same carpet in a link posted by Lason http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...%20Conversion/

Nice work. should get the job done. You can get away with that gull wing pan and large isolators cause you are bringing the exhaust out the front. Did you weld the stock crossmember to the car?

You can fix that with a set of bad dog frame rails. JohnC has posted what he charges to do a set of BD rails. Do a quick search. Be warned: rust is always more pervasive than the initial look may reveal.

It is also "My country tis a thee..", or what ever the real words are. Our national anthem is sung to the melody of a British drinking song, so hey, cut us some slack. We won the war, we will do what we want.

I think it will be a straight shot through the radiator opening. Maybe someone has done an in car cam swap?

Swapping a cam on LS motors is suppose to be a breeze. The motors are designed such that you don't have to pull the lifters to swap a cam. The only real work is pulling the radiator. Pick up any book on LS motors and see what I mean.

Does anyone have any luck finding parts for their LS motors in their local pick and pulls? I need a starter for my LS crate motor. I knew from past experience that there would be zero F body or corvette engines available. But since the starters are the same from trucks and escalades thought I could find something. But every truck I looked at had an empty engine bay or a throttle body motor (i.e. not 3rd gen). Was hoping I could get a $20 starter. Autozone wants $180 for an OEM rebuilt. Might have to wait till after dark and hit a parking lot.

That is going to require new metal anyway you look at it. If for no other reason than to seal the insides of the rails from the elements. And while you are at it you can weld in some additional bracing. The Bad Dog reinforcement plates are just sheet metal bent in an L. Pretty simple, but needs welding.

Hate to jump so late into such and old thread, especially since the way Jon did it seems to negate the issue, but I agree with Cameron. The center of the bar is acting as a torsion bar. Staking it at both ends will effectively make the bar seem like a heavier bar. Guess it depends a lot how much the ends of the bar can move as the center tries to twist.

The headlight switch carries the full current of the headlights. When the contacts get corroded, the headlights get intermittent like you are seeing. Not saying this is 100% the cause of your problems, but it is the most likely cause. Pull the switch apart and take a piece emery paper to all the copper contacts. Then go downt the headlight wires and clean up all the connectors. Then do yourself a huge favor and upgrade to headlight relays. This will take the current out of the column switch and let things live much longer. http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm

Bad Dog frame rails. The LT4 hotcam does wake things up, but depending on usage you can go bigger.

You know I must see a dozen trailers like that a week. Why all the info on the car and not so much as the plate number on the trailer?

But the whole point IS to modify the engine to make maximum use of the fuel. The availability of higher octane gas will allow you to build a higher HP motor. And even though much has been made of the different methods of measuring octane in av gas, no one has posted anything to say what the actual octane of pump and av gas is. Except Jon, who posted some empirical result that supports the idea that av gas does increase octane. Plus I am not seeing the "don't mix av gas and pump gas" warning. Don't see much to support that contention.

Unbelievable amount of work. I kept looking at the "before" pictures and wanted to click on the "report this image" link to turn them in as obscene. Would have been more simple to drill out the 8 pop rivets holding in the label plates on the 70 and cutting the VIN section out of the firewall and transferring those to the 260. But hey, great work. Job well done.

Huh. Expands upon many of the issues brought up here. I forgot about lead fouling O2 sensors. http://www.motortrend.com/features/performance/112_0606_sf_high_octane_fuel/

You guys are being needlessly rough. What you want to do will raise the overall fuel octane. More av gas then pump gas and the higher the octane goes. You are essentially making premium gas. But unless your car NEEDS premium gas, you won't get any extra power out of it. Turbo cars can dial up the boost or timing to make more power with higher octane gas, but like mentioned above there is only so much you can do to a non turbo car to make better use of the octane. And leaded gas is no more hazardous then unleaded, except to your catalytic converter, if you have one. Oh, and jet fuel is just low quality kerosene. Your car won't run at all on kerosene.

If that is your only mistake on this swap then you are doing way better than me.

Shoot, your engine bay is cleaner than my house. Do a search on the Taurus fan. That is what most people use with the JTR radiator.

You got the wrong pan From this thread http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118395&highlight=ls2+pan The truck pan is supposedly an inch or two deeper than the LS1 F body pan. The F body pan hangs and inch or so below the Z cross member as it is. I don't think the truck pan will give adequate ground clearance.

I was probably one of the chatter boxes. Got the info out of magazines and from people on this site, but haven't done it myself. Any insight on exactly what doesn't fit? Did you get the matching oil pump pick up, windage tray and dipstick? If it doesn't fit I will shut up, but I'm telling you I have read that in multiple places so something must be going on. BTW, looking forward to your completed swap. This could be the new direction for LS swaps since the LS1 motors are getting so much harder to come by.