Pop N Wood

I didn't read through the threads. Did the guy get the combo running yet?

Not to hijack a thread, at least it will bump TTT, but I haven't heard of a 24 volt starting system. Is that common with such big motors?

Here is the tool kit I am getting the little woman for Christmas

Did you look in here? Probably one of the most informative threads on the whole site http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207 While you are reading you might look through this thread also. It will make your stay here a happy one. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=65&a=2

Your Z should already have a power wire back by the tank were the electric fuel pump should go. You can get power off that. It has a ground also. The one thing highly recommended is to put in a fuel pump cut off in case you get in a wreck and the engine dies. The JTR manual recommends an oil pressure switch. You tap into the fuel pump power wire in the passenger's compartment footwell. I bought a Mr Gasket piece for a few dollars from Jegs. You can buy electric fuel pumps that are self requlating. Technically with such a pump you won't need a regulator and can even get by without a return line. Mallory's Comp 110 is such a pump. How elaborate you need to get sort of depends on how stout your engine is and wether you race it competitively. Here is a good site with more info than you are looking for http://www.centuryperformance.com/fuel.asp

The owner's manual for the early Z's say they need 95 octane gas. Common in the 70's, non existant now. When I first got my 70 240 it would ping if I used anything less than premium (93 octane?) and octane booster. When I replace the worn out carbs with ones that didn't leak air through the throttle shafts, I could run regular without pinging/detonation. Do a compression and leak down test on your car. Do a search to see how to do that and how to interpret the results. Also does your car use coolant or oil? How often do you have to add either? Old Z's are notorious for having weepy head gaskets. But there is also a chance your car is just tired and needs a rebuild.

Hear that. Should have asked for pictures of the key areas.

To first order it makes sense. If you double the boost, you double the amount of air/fuel charge being pumped into the cylinders. I think the motor head term for what you are trying to measure is volumetric efficiency. You might do some reading on that. But if you look at the ideal gas law equation temperature is as important as boost when it comes to determining how many molecules of air are being pumped into the engine. Then the unavoidable efficiencies that subtract from the ideal totals.

Huh. Taught me something. This site talks about how to keep a battery alive and has links to some common devices. Doesn't mention the one you talk about but in theory it might work http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

Bradford pears are problem trees anyway. Was only a matter of time before it fell. I have had two come down near my house. I am going to cut down the other two before they fall. Weather has been mild in maryland this year. Thank god.

Try line lock, or some abrieviation of that.

If there are no holes rusted through anything, you could drive that car to Montreal and sell if for $4K.

Go to the classroom section of this site. Has some of the most direct answers I have found. http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml I used PPG Omni epoxy primer. From what I have read, epoxy primer does an excellent job adhereing to and sealing raw metal. It contains no isocyanates. You need to top coat it within 3 days of spraying it, but if that doesn't happen all you need to do is reprime it. And from what I have read the epoxy primer does a pretty good job of protecting the metal if it has to stay in primer for a period of time. I don't know if it is compatible with rustoleum. A call to a real body shop supplier should answer that question. I sprayed a few pieces I had fabricated and it sprays beautifully. The parts look good enough to leave as is. And this was spraying it at night in my backyard in 50 degree weather using a spray gun I had never used before. Plus the stuff I used comes in black. Perfect for the underside of the car.

I think 2000 was the year they redesigned the block for better window's/oiling. It is the 98-99's that had the old design. The LS6 motor had a valley cover with a redesigned vent system that is suppose to reduce the oiling issue. ls1.com has a write up on how to switch to the newer valley cover. Like someone said the 2002's have the better LS6 intake. Some people claim that in late 2002 GM ran out of the old blocks and shipped F body's with LS6 blocks.

You guys are rooting for a kid running from the cops in a stolen car. Using the plates to find the owner of the car isn't going to do much good to help find the thief. Johnny law done good IMO. Even got the guy's car back without smashing it.

Man. Looking good. Your car has come a long way. What did you use for rubber to run those lines through the tunnel? Just the stock stuff? I am trying to do the exact same thing. Two 3/8 fuel lines and a one brake line. But for some reason I thought I would have to expand the clips.

My guess was also something loose in the suspension causing the wheels to toe in and out. Damn noobs wanting to be spoon fed.

Pretty common to FI the carb'd intakes. Go to ls1tech.com and look around. The intakes are drilled for injectors. People put a 90° top on it. Suppose to work better for larger displacement motors.

Unfortunately I thought that is where they primarily fail.

It is one thing to try and get a deal. another to flat out waste someone's time. Probably should have made the price known before he came over. Craigslist draws rather odd responses. It is really easy to email a response saying how you absolutely have to have this $4 hammer and please don't sell it until I get there, something else to get off the internet and drive 30 minutes for the same $4 item. Use to be when selling a car, whoever called first got first dibs. It was just common courtesy to hold it and give them rights of first refusal. Nowadays whoever shows up first should get it. Too many sandbags with a keyboard out there.

Depends on what you want to do. If you have smog checks or want to use the car as a daily driver, especially in a cold weather state, then FI might be worth the effort. But from a pure perfromance view, every mag write up I have seen shows the carbs usually match the FI HP wise. The carb'd LS motors actually do better HP wise with larger displacement stroker motors and higher RPM motors due to the open plenum design of the vic jr. If you do go FI, that intake, ignition and carb could probably be sold for over a grand, even used. Plus carb'd motors look pretty cool in a Z.

Right now I have a Z and and a V8. Hopefully by the spring I will have a V8 Z. I keep waiting until I get the Z running. Haven't attended any of Mike Kelly's get togethers for the same reason. Life events take me through that part of Virginia all the time. I have met Pete Paraska. We were both involved in missile defense for awhile. I think we live maybe 20 minutes apart.

OK. Jim Beam seems to have left the building. After looking at your stuff more closely, you are right. We are, for the most part, saying the same thing. But, you started out by talking engine torque and made the statement that a car accelerates fastest when the engine is at it's torque peak. That statement is the one I took exception to. Without the “in any one gear†disclaimer it is untrue and misleading. Just dump any talk about torque and only look at engine HP. In my opinion it will simplify the article and make it less subject to misinterpretation. Well, yes you can. HP is torque times RPM. If you know the HP and the RPM, you can compute the torque. In fact, HP is the one constant in the system. Torque can go up and down, RPM can change, but HP is conserved (neither created nor destroyed as the thermodynamic law says). In your lossless analysis HP to the wheels is the same thing as engine HP. Why add the qualifier? Electrical engineers use this constant power method all the time when evaluating RF circuits. Exact same thing when evaluating mechanical power transmission systems. Power in equals power out. A lossy system just has some of the power being dissipated as heat. Power is the rate at which you can do work. It is the fundamental entity governing how fast the car can accelerate. Throwing torque into the mix and then having to distinguish between engine torque or rear wheel torque just confuses things. My opinion. Other people may come to the same understanding differently. Gear the car so the engine spends as much time as possible at the highest HP possible. Seems pretty damn simple to me. For anyone with an engineering background it is a straightforward exercise to derive an equation for maximum theoretical acceleration vs. engine output. I did it in a thread here some years ago. Pretty much killed the thread too. Later I found the same equation in a text about automotive engineering. When you take into account gearing you will find the maximum, traction unlimited, acceleration capability of a car is inversely proportion to the speed of the car and directly proportional to the engine HP. Acceleration being a function of speed is significant too. Knowing that helped me understand the dilemma of max acceleration in one gear occurring at the torque peak vs. maximum overall acceleration capability at that speed. Comparing acceleration in different gears only has meaning if you use the same vehicle speed in both places.

Just rewire the headlight circuit and be done with it http://alteredz.com/Headlight_Relay_pg1.htm

Jim Beam is preventing me from repying right now. I may hit up my old buddy Jose Cuervo next. I will get back to you tomorrow because I am fading fast.