ryan95i4

Do any of you guys that have already done FMIC installs happen to have the dimensions of the rad support, in particular the distance between the two openings everyone passed their piping through? Im wondering if any of these ebay intercoolers with endtanks in this style: http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=IC0044-350&Category_Code= happen to correspond with those openings to avoid using 90* couplers

Thanks -- in my case at least, I have a brand new fuel Russell fuel filter -- replaced all the fuel lines firewall foward with braided lines as well as the stock filter (russell inline filter) and stock fpr (aeromotive adjustable fpr).

Yes it was, didnt want to deal with rust so found a solid Cali car to bring over.

Watching this thread, b/c i have a similar issue. Car starts right away, idles at 600rpm super smooth, and cruises great; but at WOT it goes extremely lean, 16:1 and worse. I saw in your other thread you mentioned disconnecting the CHTS to get it to run in closed loop, but when i tried that, the car died. Plugged it back in, and it idles perfect again. My car has stock ecu and electronics, stock turbo injectors (i believe anyways, PO did the swap -- is there any way to tell the difference between NA and Turbo injectors visually?)

I want to put A/C back in my car (73 w/ 83 L28ET). I see a lot of people sell off A/C systems pulled from their cars, especially na L28's, and Im wondering if the compressor from any year will work. I ask because I saw MSA sells rebuilt compressors but has separate listings for different years: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SAC04

16x8.25, 0 offset, no spacers

Yes (73 w/ 83 ET swap)

So now I have the complete opposite problem, way lean at full throttle. My car was running pig rich and had trouble idling and starting cold; battery needed to be replaced and found a leak in the coupler before the throttle body. Fixed those, now the car idles perfect, starts right away and under normal driving is great but it goes extremely lean at full throttle. Wideband will show 18:1 or worse and i obviously have to let off. Its now behaving perfectly, except at full throttle where it goes way lean. Amy ideas?

I know this is an old post, but did you ever figure out the issue? My car was running pig rich and had trouble idling and starting cold; battery needed to be replaced and found a leak before the throttle body. Fixed those, now the car idles perfect, starts right away and under normal driving is great but it goes extremely lean at full throttle. Wideband will show 18:1 or worse and i obviously have to let off.

Of course, as soon as I got the camera out, it started raining again...

Central FL, bit west of Orlando

Thanks, I'll have to take some new engine pics for ya. Yea, think 95 and i4 meet near daytona, but I have that in my name from the Avenger forums (had a '95 i4 that I built and boosted).

Thanks, appreciate all the comments. Took the car out yesterday but got caught in the rain, managed to snap a couple pics anyway

Took the car out yesterday but got caught in the rain, managed to snap a couple pics anyway

I have the FSM but havent had a chance to begin my search yet. Was just wondering if there was any common cause for a rich condition where I should begin my search.

73 w/ 83 L28ET, Stock ECU, Stock Turbo Injectors Idle fuel pressure set to 36psi Wideband is pegged at 10:1 at idle and almost everywhere below 3500rpm or so, so its probably running even fatter than that, black smoke and all. Im new to the AFM setup, so I dont even know where to start. Ive searched and found lots of threads on carbed setups running rich, and some NA threads, but having trouble finding threads with the same issue. Is there an adjustment at the AFM to lean the mixture down low? How do most people tune the L28ET w/ a stock ecu? Motor runs well other than being pig rich. Only other issue are cold starts take several attempts and car doesnt want to hold an idle until warm. Once its warm, it just runs really rich. Thanks for any help or pointing me in the right direction.

Everything close ok with it? have you tested for leaks?

I've just been wrenching on it a bit, so not a whole lot of other pics but: The day it arrived: First drive: Ive run a new return line (the stock return line was being used before, causing excessively high fuel pressure, 60-70psi at idle) and replaced all fuel lines from the firewall forward w/ ss lines, inline fuel filter, aeromotive fpr; replaced the blinky-light a/f gauge w/ a wideband and a couple other little things since Ive had it Right now the car is running extremely rich at idle and below 3000-3500 rpms, the wideband stays pegged at 10:1 so its probably even fatter than that, black smoke and all. This archaic AFM setup is new to me, so Im just trying to figure that out and get the car running really solid before adding a FMIC. Eventually I would like to do away with the AFM altogether to work with a system Im more familiar with.

This car is now on the opposite side of the country Couple newer pics:

Looking for this piece of the throttle linkage: final piece that connects the linkage to the throttle body Thanks!

Marking this post for future reference, pretty local company to boot!

Six_Shooter, I was thinking about doing somethign similar after digging around here and some other Z forums. Do you happen to recall what size/thread pitch the stock drain plug on the gas tank was? Thanks,

Just an update to this, yesterday I let the car warm up and then switch the line from the return line to a gas can and the car started up and ran great. Fuel pressure was around 28psi at idle, and jumped to 38 psi when pulling the vacuum line from the FPR. Car revved freely and when letting it fall back to idle, it feel back to idle dead on, no stumbling as it tried to find idle, and couldnt get the car to die if i tried So, add me to the list of people plagued by issues caused by the stock return line on the 240's. Will run a new return line asap.

Once you run the return line to the evap line, is there anything you need to do with the lines at the back of the car at the tank? I just swapped the fuel line from the stock return line to the evap line and could not get the car to start. Swapped the line back to the stock return line and car started, but of course fuel pressure was way to high (over 60psi at idle).

I know this is an old post, but I have similar issues. I previously though the FPR was bad, as my idle pressure was over 60psi, and there was no change in fuel pressure when I pulled the vacuum line off the FPR. After reading through the forums for a few hours, i see that this is likely a symptom of using the factory return line (I have a 73 w/ a L28ET swap). I tried the quick check above, just switching the line from the bottom port of the FPR from the stock return line over to the vapor line, but could not get the car to even start like this. I then tried just running that line into a fuel can and again, car wouldnt start. I then moved the line back to the stock return line and was able to get the car to start again, but obviously with the elevated fuel pressure at the rail again. fuel pressure at the rail when the car isnt running is 32psi and was constant when trying to crank the car in each situation above. Did i miss something for this quick check that would prevent the car from starting at all? Thanks,