ryan95i4

Update: Everything checked out because everything was fine. The issue is either a loose pin or solder point in the ECU connector or the ECU itself. Going through the ecu connection now to find the exact point, but a quick jolt to the ecu (read: knocking the ecu in the footwell with your foot) and the car took off Thanks to everyone for their input, but it looks like we found the culprit. Going though the connectors now and checking all pins and fixing as needed. Hopefully this clears it all up. If nothing else, the search has gotten me familiar with the FSM and how to check every sensor in the car. If the issue still persists, ill be back (and probably asking megasquirt questions instead... )

Those last two shots are awesome, nice man

Incredible build

Still on the hunt: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108991-l28et-swap-rich-idle-lean-under-boost/ Think, my issue is a bit different than the one originally posted here but im still trying to figure it out

I havent got a chance to work on the car since my last reply, but I guess this will be my next investigation

Perfect may have been too strong of a word. "Able-to-actually-go-WOT" would have sufficed lol

Update: I did try adjusting the AFM to see how the car reacted. I tried adjusting the AFM small bits at a time at first with little change, then made large adjustments, so large the car idled extremely rich. Rich enough to peg my wideband (only shows down 10:1, so likely beyond that), car idled poorly obviously, but even then, as soon as the car is under load/boost, car goes way lean just as it had before. I returned the afm back to where it was previouly, then a tooth or two leaner. AF at idle is now better, around 13.5:1 or so, but still same lean condition in boost remains. Not sure where to go from here.

I wish that were the case. Car falls on its face like a lean condition. The original narrow-band a/f that was in the car when I bought it also pegged out lean. I'll pull the new plugs to be sure, but the car feels acts like its starving of fuel in boost.

Just to confirm, it is running off the stock wastegate, 7psi. I wanted to get it running perfect as is before adding anything else. I suppose I could try adjusting one of the AFM's and seeing how it reacts.

No A.A.C. -- intake manifold is shaved and polished, sorry didnt mention this. This is part of the "essentially" stock part, as car also has a 60mm TB from a 240sx. Other non-stock bits: aeromotive 1:1 fpr and aftermarket fuel rail. If the rich idle and lean under boost are in fact separate issues and if the lack of AAC explains the rich idle, then I am less concerned with that than I am with being lean under load. Is it likely that two different AFMs would have the same problem? I havent taken the inspection lid off one, but the second one I tried still had the original glue "globs" in place.

I've been trying to track down this issue for some time now. 73 240Z w/ L28ET Swap (essentially stock swap). Car runs rich at idle, around 11:1-11.5:1, but extremely lean under boost, will go 18:1 or leaner in first 3 gears, 4th and 5th still lean, but will drop to 15:1 give or take. AFM checks out by FSM test, but Ive tried another with same results. Dizzy/CAS is fine, but again, have tried a second with same results. CHT checks out. TPS checks out. Base timing is at 24* adv and is rock steady at 2000, 3000, 4000rpm. Just installed new stock turbo injectors, all 6 fire. Fuel pressure is good, 34psi at idle, ~50psi at full throttle (aftermarket pump and surge tank setup). Car starts, idles and cruises fine (other than the rich idle). Perfect compression, pulls 18-20in-hg vacuum at idle, ~650rpm. The idle adjustment screw on the AFM doesnt seem to effect idle a/f much, if at all. Im running out of ideas on what to look for next...is it possible to have a bad ecu and still drive fine under light load (81 turbo auto according to the parts number lookup), how do you check the ecu if so? Anywhere else I should be looking? Thanks for any insight!

just in case you missed it, youve been requested in the body forum: http://forums.hybrid...ive-whale-tail/

I got quotes from hagarty, grundy, american etc but ended up getting a stated value plan with Nationwide along with a multicar discount for switching my truck as well. Still ended up cheaper than what i was paying for just the truck with geico, which was nearly half of what we paid state farm years ago. Nationwide did require either a bill of sale or an appraisal for the stated value though.

yes, NA injectors are 188cc, turbo injectors are 265cc

Looking for a full set of turbo injectors in good, ready to use, working condition. Can either pick up locally or would need to be shipped to 32605.

Not actual shelby mirrors, but I have the bullet style mirrors. Also on the doors like you said, be interesting to see how they look up on the fenders: More pics in My Garage: My Garage

Same here.

If you cant see in the pic, the numbers across the top are "1471" "95" "28" I cant find anything with those numbers through a google search or here on hybridz Im told they are 280zxt injectors, but I thought those had dark brown tops. Any ideas? Thanks,

I have a set of triple webbers, still new in the box, never been used. shoot me a PM or email if youre still looking.

I went all the way to the other side of the country for a Z with no rust. You're already there. Im no expert, but the advice i see most often is to buy the nicest Z you can afford to start your project and avoid as much cancer/rot as you can.

25' was more than enough to do the doors. I need to grab some more to replace the old worn internal hatch stripping as well though - the old stuff doesnt leak, it just looks bad. btw, any pics of your car on here? see youre in gville, will have to keep an eye out for ya

I used the same - worked great

Cool shot

Looking for a working 82/83 Turbo Dizzy/CAS Thanks,